MIL but no Codes
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Thread: MIL but no Codes

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    Default MIL but no Codes

    OK folks. Here is one for you. 2015 200C, 3.6, FWD. Last week out of the blue the MIL illuminated and message to service the transmission. I stopped the car, restarted and there was no MIL. Got home got out the OBD code reader but there were no codes. Again today, driving normally and out of the blue the MIL comes on with message to service the transmission and the MIL stays on. Get home, leave the car running and get out the OBD code reader. Again no codes. Let the car sit for 30 minutes, restart, no MIL anymore. All fluids are normal, normal temps with coolant, oil and trany. Something is going on but with no codes, I have no idea where to start checking. Nope, its not a loose gas cap or radiator cap. Not sure what to do as dealer can't even look at it until 27th. Car seems to run just fine. Puzzled

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    Senior Member Sleeper200c's Avatar
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    Is it the original battery? Doesnt sound related IK, but this car does weird things when the battery is on the way out. If it is, have it load tested. Its a good place too start.
    Also, make sure all PCM updates have been done if it gets too the dealer. ( at that point I assume theyll ck that )
    2015 200c 3.6 fwd

    Magnaflow cat-back exhaust
    K&N C.A.I.
    RPM torque tube
    RPM base stage 93 octane tune
    225/50r17 Hankooks noble s2
    Amsoil 5w20
    Amsoil P.I. before oil changes
    EBC Red stuff brake pads
    Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors
    Amsoil synthetic brake fluid
    Amsoil dominator coolant boost
    Stant 18 psi coolant cap
    Tree air freshners under seats

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    This is the 2nd battery (new as of Jul 2018)

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    I think my cheap battery is going, my aftermarket accessories and infotainment are all mysteriously not working correctly at the same time randomly. I am on my second battery. That's what I get for buying a Wal-Mart cheapie that just was within factory acceptable spec - maybe. Should have got an Interstate or better yet an Optima, but... I honestly thought I would trade this thing in by now. I am going to keep it a long time.

    It may or may not be your battery - I was just thinking that maybe these vehicles are hard on batteries somehow - June of 2018 - unless the battery has been on the shelf for a long time or is defective from the get go (had that happen at WalMart with another car and you'd think I would have learned my lesson) - it's something else.
    "Black Knight" was my father's trucker CB handle.

    2015 Chrysler 200 S AWD
    Factory tuned, RPM Torque Tube

    2013 Chrysler 200 Limited V6
    Lease returned 1/28/17




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    Most likely the battery. Almost sure of that. I had the same issue a while back bought a new battery. Sometimes that battery have internal problem despite the young age. Mines turn off while driving and the check engine light came on and tried to scan it but nothing. Changel the battery in January and up to now NO PROBLEMS

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    No, it is NOT the battery. Older cars could run all day on the alternator without the battery as long as it had gas. Now, if the battery has issues the computer will take over operations. Had an older Olds 88, one day the battery died, car wouldn't start or hold a charge for even a minute and I was a couple hundred miles away from home. Jump started the engine and drove home making sure never to turn the engine off. With our 200's, the battery is monitored separately from the alternator and if the battery dies or is removed while the engine is running, the engine will shut off. So being able to drive on just the alternator now is no longer possible. I tested this earlier this year, and yes, the car will die immediately if the battery is disconnected. Low voltage conditions (weak or defective battery) will usually set a bunch of error codes; no error codes in this scenario.

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    Black Knight (05-22-2019)

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    Dealer just called, car is fixed. I was told that 6 modules required reprogramming / flashing and codes cleared. My OBD reader showed no stored codes? Battery is fine, transmission is fine, all that was needed was reprogramming to the tune of $319, that I have to pay. Car is under 50,000 miles and is 4 years old but the reprogramming isn't covered by warranty. Sounds a bit suspicious to me, but I need to get the car back. Seems very odd that no parts had failed and all the electrical system checked out OK, but these modules needed reprogramming. I'm guessing that all they did was reset everything and send me on my way. This is the second time the car has required reprogramming. In Feb 2016, it had to be reprogrammed to stop a gas supply line valve from opening, allowing the gas to drain back into the tank whenever the car sat for 8-10 hours. I'll pick the car up later today and only time will tell if they actually fixed anything.

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    I would make a stink at the dealer that you had them reprogrammed before when it was under warranty and its still not right. if it does it again that would be 3 times then youll have a legit complaint. Good luck
    2015 200c 3.6 fwd

    Magnaflow cat-back exhaust
    K&N C.A.I.
    RPM torque tube
    RPM base stage 93 octane tune
    225/50r17 Hankooks noble s2
    Amsoil 5w20
    Amsoil P.I. before oil changes
    EBC Red stuff brake pads
    Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors
    Amsoil synthetic brake fluid
    Amsoil dominator coolant boost
    Stant 18 psi coolant cap
    Tree air freshners under seats

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    Quote Originally Posted by genes View Post
    Dealer just called, car is fixed. I was told that 6 modules required reprogramming / flashing and codes cleared. My OBD reader showed no stored codes? Battery is fine, transmission is fine, all that was needed was reprogramming to the tune of $319, that I have to pay. Car is under 50,000 miles and is 4 years old but the reprogramming isn't covered by warranty. Sounds a bit suspicious to me, but I need to get the car back. Seems very odd that no parts had failed and all the electrical system checked out OK, but these modules needed reprogramming. I'm guessing that all they did was reset everything and send me on my way. This is the second time the car has required reprogramming. In Feb 2016, it had to be reprogrammed to stop a gas supply line valve from opening, allowing the gas to drain back into the tank whenever the car sat for 8-10 hours. I'll pick the car up later today and only time will tell if they actually fixed anything.
    I predict that the car will act up again. I don't believe they diagnosed it correctly. There is no way that 6 modules all had their programming corrupted.
    And did they actually do a load test on the battery to prove that it's OK? Did they measure the Ignition-Off Draw? If they did not do these two steps, the dealership has failed you. And I agree that the reprogramming should have been under warranty.

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    "I tested this earlier this year, and yes, the car will die immediately if the battery is disconnected."

    This is a very bad thing to do. NEVER disconnect a battery with the engine running. It can cause spikes as high as 32 volts and damage any of the electronics in the car. This 'test' may have very well caused damage that you are now seeing. Remember, electronic failures are sometimes degradation, and not hard functional failures.

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