0.5 amp draw when off
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Thread: 0.5 amp draw when off

  1. #1
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    Default 0.5 amp draw when off

    My 2011 200 draws 0.5 amps from fuse 14 (instrument panel) which in turn drains the battery over several days. Any suggestions

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    .5 amps will not drain your battery in 7 days... the battery hold lots more power then that.. if its good !..( you can have the battery checked..) it would take more then 2 - 4 months... all our cars are computer controlled..
    remote entry... alarm... remote start... it even measures the temp before its started so it knows how much fuel it inject and the
    rpm of the engine is higher when its cold.. it even knows when its cold to turn on the rear window defroster..and the computer protects the transmission when its really cold...it will not shift to 4th gear till its warm.. some computer functions remain active even when its off.. The battery may be bad or it sits more then a few days? if you drive it 30 min every 2 weeks the battery will not go down if everything is good....have the battery checked first,,
    if you leave it set for extended periods it should have a trickle charger hooked to it..or unhook the battery... but thats not really a good idea.. any surges in the computer is always bad...thast why they tell you not to jump start cars...

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    That is high. I had a ram 2500 in the shop for a draw. His battery would die in 5 days. The draw I measured was .098. It was caused by his lock pick installation with aftermarket overhead monitor.

    If you have isolated the draw to the cluster fuse if you have access to wiring diagrams you have to see if there is any other devices that use that same fuse.

    Most of the interior lights gets there power from the cluster like the dome lights and vanity mirrors.

    This is what I do at work, unplug the neg. Battery cable and use a amp meter that goes down to miliamps. Draw should be .035 as per Chrysler spec but no more than .045. Let vehicle sit for about 10 min. To let vehicle modules go to sleep. Start pulling fuses on by one and wait a couple of seconds to see of it drops. If pulling the fuses don't drop the draw then it's a circuit that is not fuse protected. And those are the hardest to isolate. There are star cases that the glove box light says on and the fix is a new switch. Hope that helps.

    If you want pm me your last 8 vin numbers so I can look up your specific wiring diagrams and let me know what fuse number you think is causing the draw. I can tell you what devices get power from that fuse and if the devices give out power to other stuff like lights and other stuff.

    Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

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    Umert (03-11-2014)

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    at .5a draw the battery will go down by 120 ah in about 10 days.. get out your caculator.. 10 days x 24 hours = 240 hours ..devided by .5 = 120 ah.... most batteries hold more then 600 ah.. and then some ! so if it gets low enough to not start in 10 days??

    The battery should stay up more then 45 days and as long as 2 months before it should run it down..

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    Thanks much, At first I did not think it could be the glove box switch, change in amps was minimal activating the switch by hand. How ever using the wiring diagrams and by process of elimination it was one of the few things left. I removed the switch and unplugged it. The switch ohmed out good. Connected a amp meter at fuse 14 and at the switch. With the switch closed it only draws 1 ma but with the draw on fuse 14 remained at .5 amps. With the switch held open fuse 14 draw dropped down to about 4 ma after the timing sequence of course. Not sure how the glove box being open affects the timing sequence but some how it keep my draw high at .5 amps and the car from fully sleeping. The metal arm to actuate the switch is not very stout and most likely needed adjusted but me I'm keeping the wires off glove box lamp not that important.

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    I think you may be mistaken, I don't know of too many car batteries with 600 ah. Cold Cranking Amps sure but not amp hours. Thanks anyway.

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    I'm working on the same problem same year and model. Replacing the instrument cluster with a used one seemed to fix the problem but the same problem has returned. Have unplugged the cluster except for connector C2 and measured over 400 mA draw from the Red/Gray wire with an amp clamp. Sometimes the current draw goes up to 2 amps then comes down in steps back to 400 mA. Sometimes the draw goes away completely for a few seconds and then returns. I'm guessing something keeps waking up the cluster but it isn't turning on any interior lights or messages on the cluster.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dandee View Post
    at .5a draw the battery will go down by 120 ah in about 10 days.. get out your caculator.. 10 days x 24 hours = 240 hours ..devided by .5 = 120 ah.... most batteries hold more then 600 ah.. and then some ! so if it gets low enough to not start in 10 days??

    The battery should stay up more then 45 days and as long as 2 months before it should run it down..
    This shows a poor understanding of electronics.

    A 0.5A draw for one week will pull 84 amp-hours of load on the battery. As anyone who has ever measured discharge curves knows, they are NOT linear, and therefore, battery voltage at the end of the 168 hours can be well below the threshold of actuating the starter, especially on a cold start. The rating of 600 amp hours does NOT mean that the battery is still at 12 volts or higher, or even that it can start the car at that point. And the greater the current draw, the steeper the discharge curve, the faster the voltage drops off. So you will NOT be at the same battery voltage with 50 hours at 0.1 amp draw, as 10 hours at 0.5 amp draw.

    I have had a good, fairly new battery discharge to the point where the starter solenoid would not even click, from a 0.1 amp discharge for a month. That's 72 amp hours, and that was a battery rated at 660 amp-hours. The voltage was below 10 volts at that point.

    When the car is initially shut down, IOD may be briefly as much as 0.5 amp. But it will time out and drop to about 30 to 50 mA shortly after. So you should not measure current draw immediately after putting an ammeter inline. You need to wait until the electronics "go to sleep" and see how much the current draw drops.
    Last edited by blincoln; 05-22-2019 at 03:39 PM.

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    200s_Bullet (05-23-2019)

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