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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a base model 2015 200 with the 12" brake rotors. I put new pads and rotors on about 2 weeks ago and ever since then it sounds like the calipers are bouncing around on bumpy roads. Rechecked all bolts, still tight. Calipers seem to have some play that I can't figure out. Rattling noise goes away if I press brakes. All greased, new pad retainer hardware and it's tight too, checked all over suspension components and they're tight.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forums. You are hearing a thumping (rubbery) noise over bumps as opposed to a rattle or clatter (metallic) over bumps?
Does the noise over bumps go away while braking over bumps? Braking would put tension on the brake/suspension components and probably stop the noise. You may need a caliper slider hardware kit?
Something is loose or worn. Is it both sides? Is it out in front or under your feet? Double-check the control arm bushings. A prybar or rubber mallet may show movement or make the noise that shouldn't be there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My apologies, it's a metal rattle. I've checked all suspension components, all check fine. No amount of wear that would cause the noise, everything is extremely tight. And yes, when I apply the brakes going over a bump the noise stops. The calipers seem "loose" if I have the wheels off, like the bolts aren't tight but they are. I'll look for a new hardware kit today, thank you.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200s 2.4L
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I don't mean to be a wise ass but are you sure that the wheel bolts are properly torqued down? It sounds like the rim is moving on the wheel bolts... If the rims get cocked putting them on the bolts may seam tight until the first time the wheel spins and then the rims become loose... Tighten the bolts move the car and then check to make sure they are still tight... The 2015~2017 Chrysler 200 has bolts instead of nuts on studs (FIAT/Europe style) and installing the wheel (rims) require that they fit over an extended center flange... US cars have studs to center the wheels and don't have that flange... Chrysler cars now have a lot of different European parts that require different sockets (inverted torx bolts)... some are pretty strange... look at the bolts that hold the front seats to the floor (mortorq bolts)...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, I'm very sure that the wheels are installed and torqued correctly. I ordered the caliper pin kit yesterday, hopefully it'll solve the issue. I can literally move the caliper ever so slightly by hand, so hoping this is it.
 

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Sounds like these are similiar probs. Ck this thread maybe something there will help.
 

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Yes, I'm very sure that the wheels are installed and torqued correctly. I ordered the caliper pin kit yesterday, hopefully it'll solve the issue. I can literally move the caliper ever so slightly by hand, so hoping this is it.
Hi
New to the forum and am currently experiencing the same exact issue you were. Was curious if the new caliper pin kit resolved your issue. Thanks
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. I sent a PM to Kramer5702 a couple of days ago to let them know that there was a question in their thread.
They were last logged in back in Jan '21.

I would do a 4-wheel brake inspection. One at a time. You may be able to tell if the thumping is left or right, front or back by driving it.
Look for looseness. Pads will tend to clatter. Calipers will tend to knock or thump. The pad mounting shims & clips should be there.
A rhythmic thump as you slow, like once every rotor revolution (wheel speed) may be a rotor issue? Look for a dark spot on the inner or outer rotor braking surface. Every time a pad passes over this 'spot', it may induce a thump. A dark spot may be a heat mark or warp?

Front:


Rear:
 
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