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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day gents. Welcome to my tale of woe. Well, maybe moderate annoyance.

Issues dealt with so far, 2 oil coolers, brakes all around, new swaybars links to rectify rattly suspension (worked out back, front still clacks over bumps) and new front wheel bearings. I just replaced the crankshaft pulley seal to fix an oil leak. This was greatly disappointing after finally fixing the oil cooler with an all aluminum one purchased off of Amazon in April only to find oil still escaping. Seems to have worked for the most part, but the car still has a whiff of asphalt plant to it.

Replaced evap solenoid to fix gross leak, along with fixing the gas cap.

The car has a persistent cylinder 4 misfire. It went open circuit last year and I found the injector resistance to be 2x normal, so I replaced it with a Napa reman. Misfire continued so I installed new coils on 2 and 4, since 2 also misfires sometimes. Still no dice. I get po300, po302 and p0304 codes. The strange thing is AlfaOBD shows the misfire codes, but it says cylinder misfire for 2, but "failed ignition" for cylinder 4. I am thinking this narrows it down to a spark issue, but I'm asking here to see if that is a logical conclusion. I am getting a bit fed up, since I broke down and sent it to a Chrysler dealer to have a pro look at it and after 2 days in the shop they still hadn't gotten around to looking at it.

I haven't had the best luck with this car. Someone ran into it 9 days after I bought it, and in the first week of winter that year I slid into a club and totalled a front rim. I now have two oem and two Saab rims on it. They look almost identical but I was perplexed to find the Saab rims would not clear my front calipers, hence the 2 and 2 setup.
I'd really like to solve this misfire though. It's the only thing really annoying me, well, except maybe a drivers side dash vent that only either blows full hot or full cold. I can work around that one for now. The biggest annoyance is that the remote start won't work with a CEL on, so no warming up the car from inside at -40.

I played around with AlfaOBD to try an turn off the tpms, but all I got was a dashboard freak out and no transmission action, so eff that. It eventually sorted itself out although now I have the flashing odo. I used a BAFX connector. I have cables coming. I was not amused when I was asked for the blue cable to finish a proxy. Have any of you successfully neutered the tpms on a 200?
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. The tire pressure monitor is a 'safety' device and can't be shut off AFAIK.
It would be like trying to turn the airbags or ABS off. If the TPS doesn't work with the Saab rims, I would keep searching for a pair of 200 rims.

This is a 3.6L? Are there any coil ionization or VVT oil control valve codes? Has a cylinder leakdown (not compression) test been done? Can you feel the misfire? The correct motor oil & filter being used? Any valvetrain noise?

Are the correct Champion Iridium RER8ZWYCB4 spark plugs installed? Is it an OEM (not necessarily Mopar) coil installed?
Are the plugs carbon fouling? Are there any with darker or lighter colored tips? (Keep plugs in order for comparison).
I would almost treat this as a P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) fault code. Is there a code associated with the 'failed ignition' message?

All the cylinder misfires you mention are the even numbered ones on the front bank. This may not be just coincidence. What are the fuel trim adaptives of the right & left banks?

Did the dealer have a chance at diagnosing it or were you tired of waiting? If they are less busy now, you may want to try their diagnosis again. You don't need to go any further than that. Graciously decline the further work. Just ask for an itemized estimate and pay the diagnostic fee (usually 1 hour labor).

If the PCM and TCM software is at the latest and greatest level. Have a Quicklearn performed to set the clutch volumes. To complete the service, have the PROXI reset. You mention the flashing odometer, that is a symptom of a PROXI issue.

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This would be front bank towards the drivers side in a transverse 3.6L.
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Coil ionization fault codes (coils #1 through #4) may be the 'ignition failure'?
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The biggest cause of oil cooler (OFA) leaks is the o-rings. OEM is the best quality. I think a lot of coolers got replaced that didn't have to be.
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Quicklearn & PROXI:

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Plugs were all replaced with Autolite platinum at 148000km. I didn't want to gamble with just bad seals when I replaced the second cooler, so I did the whole new aluminum cooler. No leaks so far.

The wiring issue is intriguing, since I already found wires rubbing up against a stud on the rear bank on the driver's side, when they were supposed to be held in place by a clip that goes on over the stud. I found no breaks in the covering or insulation. From the picture, I am guessing this other clip would installed be on the front right bank nearest the radiator on a transversely mounted 3.6. Wiring would make sense since the misfire sometimes goes completely away and the engine idle rises noticeably. The cel will go our for a couple of days at a time before reappearing. The misfire is mostly noticeable at idle under load at a stop. The car will have a shuddering, nodding idle that seems to be periodic. I cleaned my throttle body to ensure this wasn't the culprit.

I do have a p0300 code. P0302 and p0304. I also have had a bank 2 air fuel imbalance code, a loss of communication with the body control module code, loss of wheel distance travelled (?) code. These are rare.

I am intrigued by the fuel trims. Bank 1, which has never given any trouble has a long term fuel trim between -10% and -14%. Both bank 1 oxygen sensors react as you would expect with a lean/rich/lean periodicity to the output.

Bank 2 Sensor 1 reacts the same. Long term trim is around -2%- -3%. Bank 2 sensor 2 seems to be stuck around 0.5 volts or less. There is a definite clipping of the signal at 0.5V. Output looks like a sawtooth pattern with the crests cut off flat. I coughed up $50 at justanswer to talk to a "certified Mopar tech" who swore o2 sensors could not cause a misfire, but I find that hard to believe with so many anecdotes around the web stating swapping an 02 sensor solved a misfire on even a specific cylinder. This would tend to play into the fuel/air imbalance codes I sometimes get on the front bank.

Oil is 5W20 synthetic changed when there is usually at least 10%-15% oil life left on the monitor. Oil filter is a Quaker State, which is probably not the worst or best filter available.

No coil ionization codes.

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A trim variation of 10% or more probably indicates a left bank problem. A bank 2 air/fuel imbalance code (P219B) helps to confirm that this is a bank-specific fault.
Wiring rub-throughs & pinches were more common before QC could step in. The devil is in the details & it is the little things that get you. There was a learning curve in 2015. Inspect the wiring harness & clean grounds.

The switching (hi/lo) rate of the upstream O2s should be about twice as fast as the downstream O2s. Once warm, they should always be switching, never sitting still. If replacing O2 sensors use OEM (NTK/NGK) brand.
Bosch or 'Universal' sensors can cause issues.
Many of the 'imbalance' Possible Causes are similar to the ones for a 'misfire'. Troubleshooting procedures would be similar as well.

An O2 sensor might cause a misfire if it is so far out-of-range, lean or rich, that the mixture can't combust (rare, but still possible). If a particular cylinder is misfiring and not others, there may be secondary issues going on with that particular cylinder.

Think: Electrical ign/fuel injector (underhood) harnesses or mechanical (valvetrain).

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I managed to disable tpms with AlfaOBD. I just selected "not present" from the tpms submenu and did a proxy alignment. No more warnings or dash light to annoy me. The proxi alignment wouldn't proceed past the PCM module second step. I was stuck at work with a dash full of warnings and no transmission function, and getting concerned I would need to rent a room at the local fleabag motel, so I disconnected the battery cables and joined them with my booster cables for about 5 minutes, then reconnected them. The proxi then sailed through.

The misfire persists. It was gone for two days before reappearing. This is why I am hesitant to send it to the dealer. I think i'll end up spending money for a problem they can't diagnose. The weather on the weekend looks good. I might pull the intake and check the connector to the coil to see if the contacts have loosened up. It would have been nice if Mopar had left more than 0.5mm of slack in the wiring harness. It is very difficult to check for any wire rubbing

I replaced the front crankshaft oil seal since it was damp and looked like the source of my oil leak, but it did not solve the issue. It's either the timing cover or the valve cover gasket for what I can discern. It's almost impossible to see anything even under the car. The right cv joint is very wet, and the oil is collecting in between the exhaust pipe and the thermal shield, causing a noticeable smell.

I noticed that there is an option to disable the dual fuel sensor. I am wondering if I could do that and finally convince this car it isn't running on ethanol. Maybe this would bring the fuel trims back in line.
 

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Along with the misfire code(s), the PCM should also store a 'freeze-frame' or 'snapshot' of what the engine sensors were (or weren't) seeing at the time of the code set. This information may be helpful in diagnosis, especially in cases where the misfire isn't felt or is apparent. I've never seen a 'false' misfire code.

What code falls under the 'failed ignition' message?

The diagnosis should be followed for a P0300 (multiple-cylinder misfire) or P219B (Bank2 fuel imbalance). See what Possible Causes they may share in common.

Degreasing the engine oil leak area & adding a UV dye may help identify the leak source. Oil will generally travel downward (gravity) & backward (road draft), but wind turbulence inside the engine compartment can make the leak source deceiving.

I don't know if the non-ethanol selection will change the misfire situation. You can try it if it allows you to change it back, if needed. If the misfire is because of ignition or mechanical reasons, it may not help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The freeze frame data has some seriously jacked temperatures. Bank1 and bank 2 air charge temperatures disagreeing by 80c. Bank 1 seems stuck at -40c. I don't even know how these temperatures are measured, since the IAT sensor is the only one I know of. One freeze frame has an intake air charge temperature of 215c with a throttle outlet temperatureof 0c. The catalyst temperature is coming up -64c on some. I'm not sure if this is a software issue or a sampling rate issue. The IAT measurements seem plausible in each freeze frame however. Are these other temperatures calculated, or are these meant for a different vehicle perhaps? The large disagreement between bank 1 and 2 might account for some of the fuel trim differences between banks possibly.
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There is some data that is invalid & should be disregarded. There is no charge air temperature sensor. No EGR valve, fuel rail pressure sensor, tank pressure sensor, cat temperature or throttle outlet temperature sensor, etc .
There may be some of this equipment used in other applications, but not on your car.
-40℃ is a default value and the lowest temperature range possible. I've seen this value in an unplugged or open sensor situation.
There is a single IAT, ambient air (AAT), coolant temp (ECT) engine oil (EOT) sensor on your car.

Does the Alfa-OBD instruction guide give any information or details about the 'Control Module Voltage'? It is certainly too low for battery input voltage.
I see a Bank1 and Bank2 as neither in open or closed loop. This is implausible to me as the loop has to be one or the other.
Is there any O2 sensor or fuel trim (adaptive) freeze frame information given?
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think I have nailed down the oil leak. It looks like a hairline crack in the front if the timing cover. There is a short line about 3/4" long delineating a dark wet patch that flares out down ward from it in a roughly rhomboid shaped smear. That is not great news as it looks virtually unreachable through the gap I viewed it from. A smear of hi temp silicone would probably solve it if I could reach it. I take it this would be quite a time consuming and expensive fix at the dealer. If I could get the CEL to stay off I would dump this car. It's just one **** thing after another.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I took your oft given advice on check the grounds and found them to be good. I then proceeded to clean up the battery terminals, even though they looked clean. There were obvious amounts of white crust, albeit in very small amounts. I burnished them to a bright finish and cleaned the posts as well. It was at this point I discovered the negative clamp could still be rotated with a bit of effort despite clamping it as tightly as I could. There is also a bit if a ridged patten on the inside of the clamp which significantly reduces the contact area between the clamp and post. Nevertheless, charging seemed to improve and I got a solid 14v all the way home. I was encouraged to find the cel light still off after my half hour commute and wondered if that hadn't been the problem all along. I pulled up to my local Canadian Tire to pick up some new battery clamps, but the cel came on again as I was parking. The battery cable design doesn't lend itself well to being replaced by a common old school style of clamp without cutting off the oem ends. Still, I thought I was on to something, so I decided to stress test the charging system output by putting it into a worst case scenario through turning on every electrical component I could, while keeping the car at idle in gear. With everything maxed out and with all 4 windows held down, I could draw the voltage down to an even 12v. I also noticed the usual shudder began at around 12.8v. It is not unusual to have everything running pretty hard on a cold winter morning, or a hot and humid day, so I am wondering if a lot of this issue might be related to a charging system that can't cut the mustard at low rpm and high demand. The biggest draws came from the defroster grid and maxed outblower motor. Seat and wheel heat did not affect it as much as I thought they would, but the fog lights dropped output noticeably. The response of the charging system also seemed a bit sluggish. It was able to meet demand most times, but voltage would often drop for a second or two before it recovered. I don't know if the alternator output is marginal, or the control system needs improving. I have put a brass shim between the negative clamp and the post and it can still rotate with a bit of effort, so I will increase the thickness to see if I can get a clamp I can't spin. The positive clamp is good and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Twice this week I was able to make cylinder 4 drop out entirely after applying full throttle to pass or accelerate. Injector open circuit. This prompted the replacement of cylinder 4 injector last year, but now I realize it's probably being shut down by the PCM because of a failed burn. I took a day off work to find a shop to look at it but they are all back logged until mid December. While driving between shops, cylinder 4 came back online by itself. No rhyme or reason. I am suspecting a weak ignition signal now. Probably blowing out the spark at high load? I don't know anymore. I'll try to book a dealer visit over my Christmas break, which I'm sure no one else has thought of!
 

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It does sound electrical if it is acting intermittent like this. If the spark plug firing voltage is low, the increased cylinder pressures on acceleration can 'blow out the candle' and be the misfire (P0304).
Did you get a P0204 also?
Raw O2 from the misfire going past the O2 sensor will be interpreted by the PCM as a lean mixture. The PCM will the increase the fuel injector pulse-width ('on' time) to enrich the mixture in an attempt to reduce the exhaust O2 content (an ideal burn).
If there is any spark plug carbon-fouling, this can open a Pandora's box as the spark plug will cool & may not be able to 'burn off' the carbon and continue with misfiring. It can be a vicious cycle.

I would pull the #4 plug and compare its appearance with the other plugs. The porcelain color at the tip will help indicate the combustion conditions. Plugs can tell a story.

The spark plugs specified by Chrysler are Iridiums (RER8ZWYCB4). The Platinums may not meet the desired burn characteristics. Was it having this misfire issue before the spark plug change?

 
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