(2011 200 convertible) Whole car feels loose when going over textured parts of road (like bumps and dips)

A side-to-side looseness? Do you find yourself always having to correct the steering wheel to stay straight? Does the car seems to 'over' or 'under' steer itself on turns?
Lateral suspension control for the front & rear may be worn bushings or ball joints?
It's time for a comprehensive suspension inspection. Let us know what you find.

It was a 'perceived' loss of traction where the car would jump sideways over ice or slush patches. Some cars did it worse than others. It doesn't apply to convertibles, sedans only.
There was a rear knuckle geometry change on cars built before 3/20/2012. New suspension components & a toe spec change for all.



If the car has never had a 4-wheel alignment, it may be good to finish up with one. I was surprised at the 'before & after' print-outs on mine after I had purchased it used. I had thought that the original tires were wearing too quickly for their mileage.

Chrysler said it was a perceived loss of traction but in my case, and others, it was a definite side to side sway.

It was a very strange issue to experience and I'm familiar with suspension and alignment problems.

Didn't happen all the time and only on certain conditions where the surface had icy patches.

Not during lane changes or rounding turns or curves but travelling perfectly straight.

Tire wear was and remains perfect in my opinion, making it hard to diagnose.

I don't think it was a toe or camber issue so I guessed it must be caster.

That's the one thing hard to see or measure on a rear suspension.

The car has been perfect after the Star Case repair.

But, now I see it only applies to sedans.

Thanks
Randy

200_S_AWD said:

It was a 'perceived' loss of traction where the car would jump sideways over ice or slush patches. Some cars did it worse than others. It doesn't apply to convertibles, sedans only.
There was a rear knuckle geometry change on cars built before 3/20/2012. New suspension components & a toe spec change for all.
View attachment 63057
View attachment 63058

If the car has never had a 4-wheel alignment, it may be good to finish up with one. I was surprised at the 'before & after' print-outs on mine after I had purchased it used. I had thought that the original tires were wearing too quickly for their mileage.

Click to expand...

i went under the car with my pickle fork and tried moving anything that i could see that had to do with the front sus. but everything seemed ok. the only think i for sure need to change is the end links but i dont think they could cause THAT much craziness right?

Is there a clatter or knocking noise over bumps?
Any unusual tire wear?
Don't forget to check any lateral arm joints in the rear suspension. They can cause wander also.

Hi, I know how to fix your car if you are talking about the rear fish tailing on dry roads. Back in the day this was a common topic for the earlier models. Lay on the ground and look at the inner inside edge of the rear tires and see if your tires have excessive wear just on that inside strip where the tires meet the road. These cars had excessive negative camber and would, at least in my case, wear the inside right down to the cords. The rest of the tire would be fine and you couldn't see this wear from the side of the car. Anyway, go some place like Les Schwab. Have them put adjustable rear links in and set the rear camber for zero degrees. A receiver hitch also helps stabilize the rear. I've had tons of experience with alignments on my car and it helps to have weight in the car when the alignment is performed. Cheers