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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well it was the deck lid relase cable that broke.. Trunk Lid-cable 68040770AA of course discontinued.

I actually am disliking Chrysler vehicles and that's all we purchased prior. No more...

I can't believe they quit making the cable and do not even offer a replacement of any kind .. last vehicle they sold with this cable on was the 2014 so only 7 years. I mean "hello" cables break more then metal parts..

Any suggestions on how to find one? Ebay has none, online salvage no go, local salvage no go..

Does anyone know of a cable that will work in its place?
 

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We have a diagnosis. Very good. How is the decklid latch release cable broken?
Did the cable end (ferrule) pull off? Did the wire strands break? Is the plastic outer sheath & mounting ends still OK?

If the latch on that side bound up, I could see it 'snapping' a cable. Lube both latches & make sure that they release with a moderate pull on the latch link. You should only feel the return spring tension to pull against.

Cables can be made, reproduced or repaired. Many cables have standard sizes & ferrules. Do you have it out of the car? Is the top back up for now? The side that is intact might offer a better pattern to reproduce.

How far are you from Boise?:

There are Motion Pro dealers in Sandpoint (Blackdog near Elmira). More in Spokane, if that's closer than Boise.
They may not have the facilities at the store to make a cable, but hopefully can advise you on the best path forward with this. They cater to motorcycle repairs & might be able to help here. Find out their policies on cable service. Send an image next to a ruler for size perspective:

I'm sure that other JS27-body owners have or will be facing the same problem. That is probably why there isn't any of them around. Let us know how you make out with this.



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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
We have a diagnosis. Very good. How is the decklid latch release cable broken?
Did the cable end (ferrule) pull off? Did the wire strands break? Is the plastic outer sheath & mounting ends still OK?
Thanks.. I wasn't sure what to call that end thingy. Looks like the "ferrule" pulled off more so then the cable actually snapping or breaking. I can still use the cable and release the latch if I connect a vice grip on the end and pull. So the latch is working and the cable looks to be the correct length just the end ball thing (Ferrule) came off.

Yes the top is up.. guess after hours of the mechanic trying this and that.. he noticed that cable end and took a pliers and pulled it which released the latch and then the top was able to go up.

Its still in the car the cable attached.. and the car is back home with me.. I will check a couple of those fab shops you mentioned.

Thank you<
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Oh my goodness.... Could this be it? OK the cable itself is discontinued but they do still sell the latches WITH cable connected.

The actual cable part is this - 68040770AA - which is discontinued and is #18 in the diagram..
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and the latch part is the diagram is #14 .. - 4389468AH - Genuine Mopar Latch-Deck Bar
and it says cable attached?? It looks to be the cable..

But says right side not sure if drivers side is right or left.
I have not found a latch that says left side..
Could I be closer to finding the crown jewel???
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Nevermind got
4389468AH is the right/passenger side
4389469AH is the left/driver side

Unfortunately this site indicates discontinued but that does not mean it is not available elsewhere.

Thank you that is what I was looking for the part # for the left side. I did find it to be discontinued also but now I have something to look for at salvage. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok found where I can get the left/driver side ... and its available.. but now not sure if the cable attached in the one I need maybe there is more then one cable? Here is the left side with the cable attached but the cable looks different.
Bumper Bicycle part Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system Auto part



and this is a image of the cable that I need to replace.

Cables look different right?
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There are a lot of tutorials out there on lawnmower/motorcycle/ATV brake & throttle cable repairs.
A lawnmower or motorcycle shop may prefer cable replacement, but an old-school technician might venture a repair if a replacement isn't easily available.

The cable will probably still have to come out of the car if heat is needed.
The ferrules are 'pinned' to the cable wire. This is a stamping machine process that compresses the ferrule to the cable wire.

You probably can't slip the old ferrule over the cable for re-pinning. It may be a softer metal than the wire cable itself.
A new ferrule should be available commercially or you can cast one.
Keep heat away from the plastic cable sheath. A heat sink clipped to the wire should draw heat from traveling down the cable wire into the plastic sheath.
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The wire may be stainless steel as described in the videos:


The 4389469AH (latch, with cables included) also shows discontinued & not shown in stock at any dealer. It supersedes 4389469AG. Either one would work.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
There are a lot of tutorials out there on lawnmower/motorcycle/ATV brake & throttle cable repairs.
A lawnmower or motorcycle shop may prefer cable replacement, but an old-school technician might venture a repair if a replacement isn't easily available.

The cable will probably still have to come out of the car if heat is needed.
The ferrules are 'pinned' to the cable wire. This is a stamping machine process that compresses the ferrule to the cable wire.

You probably can't slip the old ferrule over the cable for re-pinning. It may be a softer metal than the wire cable itself.
A new ferrule should be available commercially or you can cast one.
Keep heat away from the plastic cable sheath. A heat sink clipped to the wire should draw heat from traveling down the cable wire into the plastic sheath.
View attachment 60017
The wire may be stainless steel as described in the videos:


The 4389469AH (latch, with cables included) also shows discontinued & not shown in stock at any dealer. It supersedes 4389469AG. Either one would work.

View attachment 60018
Thank you.. this forum has been mostly helpful. I was able to order the left side latch with cable included and was at a reasonable price.

Since the latch itself is ok on the one in the vehicle - will save that latch and have the cable repaired. With these parts becoming harder and harder to find it does not hurt to have a spare on hand.

Thank everyone so much. I would not have known what to do without all your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
OK me again - the junk /salvage yard is wanting to make sure they are getting me the correct part. So this would be the deck lid latch and cable right for the left drivers side that is broken?

Mopar 4389469AH
Latch-Deck Bar
2007-2014 Mopar 4389469AH


This is my car see the cable end broken the ball came off.. or cable broke??

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and this is the passengers side where the cable is not broke..

Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Trunk Automotive design


So the part I would need would be #18 and #14 in this mopar parts diagram right?



Want to be sure I am telling the salvage yard the correct part. Its coming out of New York and I am in Idaho.
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Left side is drivers side.
That looks like they were going to send the pump/motor & both top lift mechanisms. (Wrong).
You really only need the left decklid release cable. If that cable comes with the decklid release latch, that's OK too.
Can you send the salvage yard an image of the part you need? Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

Yes, you want #14 & #18. The left or right cables are the same. You want the left latch w/cable: Mopar part # 4389469AH. Previous versions will also work: AD->AH.
The text for the latch says that the cable is included. That's the way you want it.

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