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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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This is a block diagram with flow arrows. The warmer heater hose on the car is your inlet side.
A reverse flush & chemical treatment of the heater core is something to try. As long as the sludge is loose or soft.
If the sediment & lime scale is a hard blockage, the core will need replacement. There is a Youtube hack that may save some time. I would do something like this on my own car, never on a customer car.

Cycle between a reverse flush & air blast until it runs clear. Don't exceed 20 psi (140 kPa). Let sit overnight with the 'CLR' treatment.
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Are you able to determine if the blend door actuator motor is working? You may be able to hear the door move when rotating the heat/cool knob. Are any clicks heard when rotating the know? Clicking indicates a failed actuator motor. On the 2011, I believe the blend door motor is behind the glove box.

There may also be a dtc present in the HVAC module that may help in diagnosing.

I mention the blend door actuator motor because you noted both heater core hoses are hot which is not a typical symptom of a clogged heater core (can't rule out a partially clogged heater core though).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
200_AWD: I already looked all that up, I needed too see the core hose diagram. That
block diagram is not for the 200? It indicated 3.6 Phoenix.

I found plenty of videos on how to replace the core by cutting the tubes inside the car.
I have a bulge flair tool as well. I may cut them offset so I can use compression
fittings, or at least on one line so I won't have two higher chance failure points.

I need something like this, that shows the core diagram with hose routing:
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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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That diagram in post #4 is from the 2011 JS manual. The parts picture may be better.
Follow the heater hoses up to the engine. They don't discern between the heater supply hose from the heater return hose, but the show a heater supply & return 'tube' that may indicate the coolant flow path to you.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am taking the car back to the dealer tomorrow, and are exorcising my right to return this piece of crap. PA, you get three business days to return the vehicle in the condition it was when purchased. This car is going to be another nightmare... Trans bangs into gear when I put it in drive, downshifts are erratic. Light already went out in the cluster. Oil cooler does leak, despite them saying they looked and it was fine (on my request). Rear passenger side rocker is rotting. Shudders under low RPMs in gear, lockup. And it only has 75,400 on it now. I already hate the car...
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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There must be other choices out there for you. Maybe without bank financing?
A 12 year old used car will always need something. Anything this old & worn goes straight to the auction.
So many big things wrong here. The new & used car prices & selection is just insane all over right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When you replace the thermostat you have to bleed the air out of the cooling system. You are not going to get good coolant flow when the water pump is cavitating.
I have NEVER bled a coolant system in my life, AND, never had a problem.

Also, you are THREE days late:
I said:
Returned the car for a FULL refund. So, I lost the money for the T-stat install, coolant, and 3/4 tank of gas...
 
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