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I have a 2012 Chrysler 200, purchased new and I have had to have the heater core replaced every year since 2018! No joke! The first year, 2018, they had the car in the shop for a bout 3 days doing all of the flushes etc. The new heater cores do not last a full year before they need to be replaced. I will have to check when the last one was replaced (sometime early 2021) but I already know I need it replace again. It is baffling to all of us involved. He shows it to me when he replaces it and it is clogged. Thankfully the part itself is guaranteed for life and our mechanic hasn't charged me again for the labor but this is ridiculous. I don't want to keep dealing with this and I really don't want the mechanic to have to keep dealing with it either. I was hoping to drive it for a couple more years but this seems crazy. "Knock on wood", it has been a very good car with this exception. If so many people have issues with the heater core why hasn't Chrysler had a recall on these? (I know very silly question). I keep getting letters from the dealership asking for my car but there is NOTHING they have that I would want to pay for.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forums. Clogged with what?
Remove the block drains and reverse-flush the sediment that may be sitting inside the engine (casting sand, etc) until the flush runs clear.
Make sure that the correct HOAT coolant is used, unless yours is an early OAT coolant user.
Chrysler switched about this time.Your coolant reservoir cap should say which type.
Do not mix coolants and use distilled water only for a 50/50 mix. Do not use the old green IAT coolant or Dexcool.
HOAT coolant must meet Chrysler MS- 9769. Oat coolant must meet Chrysler MS-12106.
Additives are not recommended or needed.
 

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Rectangle Gas Font Auto part Metal

Im on my third heater core for my wife’s 2012 200 3.6s with 141k on the ODO.

The heater core i pulled out last year I took a Dremel to and opened it up. There was a sludge on the passenger side of the core that extended to about the middle of the core. The picture attached is an approximation of where the sludge build up was. If i had to describe it I would say it was a reddish bean dip that looked almost sandy (probably the casting sand from the heads).

I did the “heater core short cut” where I chopped the inlet and outlet lines under the dash going into the core, pulled the old one out, matched up the cuts on a new one, cut some 5/8 heater hose to make the patch, then put everything together with hose clamps.

This guy does a good explanation of how to do it:

This year I also added a heater core manual shut off valve so I can turn off coolant flow this summer and an inline filter right before the the coolant gets to the core. I have also replaced the rad, and MADE SURE TO USE THE CORRECT COOLANT FOR THE YEAR PER THE MANUAL. Hopefully I won’t have to buy another core from Rock Auto next winter
 
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