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who drove it to my mechanic, then when I went to the lot the owner asked me to make him an offer after my mechanics found an oil leak that, if not fixed via additive, would cost between $450 and $700.

Pristine interior, a very few very minor exterior issues but biggest is missing grill under front bumper. Very light tic in engine--maybe the oil leak? Mechanics found no other issues but are discouraging me from buying/being protective because of the tic and their mutual gut reaction to dealership, non-disclosure of leak, and price/drop. Car, I was told, was a dealer trade in from neighboring city (where my mechanics have experience), on the crowded lot for almost 30 days and headed for auction very soon. $118,000 miles, white, V6, 3.6L, new rear breaks, good front breaks.

I don't see many in my area (NE) and those I do are just under and over $8000.

My last four vehicles were all from private owners and lasted me more than 30 years.

As much a used car dealership question as a 200, but any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks.
 

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Good idea taking a used car to a mechanic first before you buy.

Sounds are hard to describe via written message.

The Pentastar 3.6 does have a very "light tick" but a "light tick" to one person could be a "heavy tick" to another person or vice versa.

If you really like the car, find another newer car with the Pentastar 3.6 and see if it's making the same sound. If it isn't and it's quieter etc..., don't buy the one you are looking at.

The 3.6 engine is reliable, but with any used car, you never really know how well the previous owner took care of the vehicle - or if they even did etc...

That's my .02
 

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Hello,

I think $6000 for the vehicle in the condition you describe sounds reasonable. That being said - what you describe, at least in my opinion, tend to be more common issues with the 3.6.
1. Ticks with these engines are most commonly caused by the rockers going bad - here's a video with an example of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHVWD-SXQiQ - If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, you could do this repair yourself for under $200.

2. The leak, if I'm taking a shot in the dark, is likely due to the oil filter housing cracking (most likely from overtightening). Again - this part can be had for under $200 - here's the link: https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/ADAPTER-ENGINE-OIL-FILTER/10129014/68105583AA.html

3. The real thing to watch out for on these is the transmissions (yes, the 6 speed). Our Avenger has always had a noticeable "thunk" when engaging reverse or drive. In 120,000 miles it's yet to do anything else though.

As with any used car, you have no idea how it's been driven, however a clean interior is generally a good sign that someone at least mildly cared about their vehicle. If you're in the market for a 200 and can score one for $2000 less than the lowest one you can find, I'd do it. Keep in mind you still will need to spend $500 in repairs, but you're still ahead of the game at that point.

We have an '11 Avenger (the twin to 200) with the 3.6, great car - smooth, quick, and great gas mileage! You'll enjoy it if it's what you're looking for.
 

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The 6-speed in my wife's 2012 200 and in my 2011 200 does not thunk at all when engaging gears. The only noticeable reaction that is not smooth is that when coming to a stop in Autostick mode, it does engage 1st abruptly, which doesn't happen coming to a stop in Drive. 77K miles on my wife's car, 116K miles on mine.
 

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118k miles! Run away! Once you budget the $3500+ transmission replacement you will need shortly, I wouldn't pay more than $1000 for one of these cars with that kind of mileage...
 

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118k miles! Run away! Once you budget the $3500+ transmission replacement you will need shortly, I wouldn't pay more than $1000 for one of these cars with that kind of mileage...
These cars can easily obtain 200K with performing all required maintenance.
Times have changed. Used cars today command those prices because of the cost of new cars.
 

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Thanks very much for the feedback. Still have a few more days to decide but leaning against for unrelated reasons. But if I wind up going for it I'll post again.
 

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This may be blasphemy here, but I'd look for a 10 year old Honda accord for $6k or $7k over an 8 year old 200. I enjoy my 2015 200c, but I'd be concerned about reliability in an older one with more than 110k miles. My daughter's been driving a 2003 accord for 5 years, now has 173,000 miles, I think all in we've invested $4300 In the car, including the purchase price!
 

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This may be blasphemy here, but I'd look for a 10 year old Honda accord for $6k or $7k over an 8 year old 200. I enjoy my 2015 200c, but I'd be concerned about reliability in an older one with more than 110k miles. My daughter's been driving a 2003 accord for 5 years, now has 173,000 miles, I think all in we've invested $4300 In the car, including the purchase price!
Well, my wife bought her 2012 new. Now has 80K miles on it, original battery. There have been only two problems in 7 1/2 years:
1) Intermittently, about 2-3 times a year, it trips a P0441 code for evaporative emissions. Probably a slightly loose vapor hose. Never gave us any trouble.
2) One of the motors in the airbox, the recirculator motor, started clacking at about 30K miles. Replaced it with a Mopar one from Rockauto for about $30, has been fine since.
Otherwise, trouble-free and runs like new.

I bought my 2011 used a year ago today at 95K miles. Have put 21K miles on it in one year.
1) The original battery failed a couple of months ago at 8 years, and the alternator also. Replaced them myself with OEM alternator from the dealer and Interstate battery for $370 total. Even when alternator failed, I made it another 20 miles on the 8-yr old battery that was draining.
2) I just replaced both headlights within a few months of each other for $36.
3) Carfax shows that for the original owner, faulty thermostat was replaced in Jan 2012. Also, the dealer replaced the power window switch on the driver's door when I bought it - it worked, but was pushed down into the armrest.
Otherwise, trouble-free and runs like new.

I would not hesitate to recommend these cars strongly. My last Mopar (93 Daytona) went 257K miles before the chassis rusted out, and the previous one (92 Daytona) went 308K miles before the chassis rusted out, both with original engines. I intend to take this Chrysler 200 to 300K + miles. It's a better value than a Honda, IMO, and probably far safer.
 

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The Chysler 200 is also like driving a real car as opposed to a Honda "transportation appliance" that is sooooo boring to drive, about as much fun as a Maytag clothes washer! The reliability isn't all that great on a Honda either: My wife had two over the years- an 85 Civic and a 92 Accord - I blew up the engines in both, fortunately Honda Honored the warranties and replaced the engines, but those were the very last Japanese cars in our household.
 
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