2013 chrysler 200 2.4l engine intermittent stalls and obd2 connector is disabled!

Welcome to the forum. I don't recommend replacing parts to find a problem. Guessing, even good guesses can get expensive & frustrating, if they aren't OEM parts, you may be digging yourself into a rabbit hole.
Always diagnose first.
The OBDII connector will have to be repaired first. Does the yellow 'ck eng' light come on? I've had shady sellers snip the bulb out so that the buyer wouldn't see the light on.

The catalytic converter & oil consumption recalls (if applicable) also required a PCM software update.
If you provide me with the last 8 of the VIN, I can send you the dealer repair history & completed recall list.
Send me the info in 'Conversations' if you like.

To: 200_S_AWD
Thank you for Quick reply! UPDATE: I'm sending you my VIN in Conversations!
I went to Auto Salvage Yard yesterday and I Pulled the OBDII connector off same year and Engine as my Daughter's car and to my Surprise, it only had the same Few Wires on that OBDII also. Im attaching Photos, there is only 5 Wires that connect to the OBDII. Red, faded yellow with lt blue stripe, white with drk blue stripe and 2 solid Black wires for total of 5 wires.

After pulling out the OBDII connector on my Daughter's car and Twisting it around to take Photos, I hooked the OBDII up to my "Cheap" OBDII Scanner and it worked! It pulled a Code P0339 crankshaft position sensor, which I did Just replace, however the car has been very hard to start after I replaced the Sensor, so I am thinking the aftermarket sensor I bought off Amazon could be the Problem, (i.e. the Rabbit Hole you mentioned) so I am going to put the original Crankshaft Position Sensor back on the car, pretty sure that was not the Problem in the first place.

The Car always does seem to start, however now it dies almost immediately, i.e. that new (Aftermarket) Crankshaft Position Sensor I put on is Faulty, in my opinion and (OBDII scanner code is P0339) I did not have any codes before, but I did not feel like I hade Power or all the Wires to the OBDII working before I twisted the Connector and got my OBDII reader to beep and confirm it was connected.
.

Uploaded some Photo's of the Car and Engine 2.4. Thanks to All whom read and reply.

Since the P0339 code was the Only code my scanner displayed, I'm going to reverse what I did with the CrankShaft Position Sensor and then Clear the Code, and then Report Back.

Forgot, Photos of 1.Cat and Reprogram Sticker 2.My Engine, not sure if Cover VVT is Correct as I got Engine Cover from Salvage Yard. 3. Last 4 of the VIN Number. Thanks for Reading and Replying as I am committed to Fixing this Car!

There was a bulletin on a certain build date range of crankshaft position sensors back in 2011, but honestly after all this time any of them can fail.


If P0339 persistes, this is the wiring diagram & possible causes:




Shorted to voltage is usually an open circuit. Shorted to ground is usually a short circuit.
Wire rub-throughs and deterioration of plastic & rubber underhood components are more common on 10+ year old cars. Inspect wiring harnesses & hoses for heat stress, cracks or rubbing.









Continued below.

Underhood grounds & connections are subject to weather & corrosion. I usually take the connection apart to clean it as corrosion can be hidden. A simple repair, cheap & often over-looked.

Update: I got the car back together after putting New Intake Gasket and new Fuel Injectors on car. Weird that previous p[erson had doubled the O-rings on the Fuel Injectors? I had to take 2nd O-ring out as my new Fuel Injectors would not Secure to Spring Clamp with extra O-ring.
I also went to Salvage Car yard and pulled a Wiring Harness mostly Complete ($16) and I separated out a Nice 4ft Black Negative Cable that I used to Mount to the Engine Block and Ran up to the upper (Jump starter) Post that connects directly to the Battery below. This Adding of the Extra Ground along with Removing and Wire Brushing all the Negative Grounds that I could easily Access is what most likely has Fixed the No Crank No Start issue. I just started replacing other Parts because they were overdue (overdue maintenance) that I decided to Take care of while I was triaging the main issue of No Start!

Note: The Crank Shaft Position Sensor that I got on Amazon for 15 bucks was Faulty, I went to Oreilly's (Local) and bought a 15-dollar CSP Sensor and it works great, but my Old Original Sensor was not bad, I just decided to replace it while I had the Engine all opened up anyway. Same thing with the Throttle Body Sensor, The $50 Amazon Aftermarket TBP was Not working actually made the Car Run Up Rpms and run Erratically, it may have just needed a "Learn Pro0cedure Preformed (But I do Not have the Scanner with that Function. I sent the Throttle Body back to Amazon, Cleaned my Old one really good and it worked Great now. So Yeah, I went down that Aftermarket Rabbit hole just a bit....

Now Car is back together and running great with the Exception of 3 lights on dash: ABS, Traction Control and Check Engine Lights are still on., I have a New Scanner coming in tomorrow from Amazon- THINKCAR Car Scanner ThinkScan SF100 OBD2 Scanner ABS SRS Check Engine Light with 28 Reset Functions! Only $65 crazy for all it claims to do, and reviews are all good so I'm excited.
New Scanner will allow me to Figure out what's going on with the ABS System, hoping it is just a Bad Sensor! New Scanner also has LIVE View too! Cheap Version of the Way More Expensive Thinkscan machines. Anybody that has experience triaging the ABS and Traction Control on these cars please respond as that is what I will Tackle tomorrow, Evening!

Lastly: Why does this Chrysler 200 2.4 Not have an external Gas Filter Separate from the Fuel Pump? It just seems ridiculous to me that you have to Change the Fuel Pump if you want a New Gas Filter. Is this even Logical?

Car seems to be Running Great although my daughter drove it to the Movies last night and she said on the Way home it Died in the Middle of the Street, quickly restarted ok. worries me a bit??? Will Update again after I get the new scanner and check ABS sensors.... Thanks for all that read and reply!

Fuel filters are pretty much 'lifetime' now for gasoline engines.
The only times I've ever replaced them on cars in the past 18 years, is when there is a fuel contamination concern. Not for 'scheduled maintenance' anymore.

With the fuel pump reservoir bowl & a barrier 'strainer', water won't get past the tank. With 10% ethanol, we are all effectively using 'dry gas' now.
At the fuel injector end, there are screens. If these restrict from debris, you have bigger problems.
There may be some silt or debris on the tank bottom, but it probably won't bother anything as long as it stays there.

Good Evening 200_S_AWD,

I want to update you on my Challenges with my daughters 2013 Chrysler 200 2.4L. Well, after I did everything, I listed previously in above Thread, Car ran great for 1 Incident where she Drove to a Friend's House and was there a couple hours and she went to leave Car would not Start/Crank again. I picked her up and then when we came back the Next morning Car started right up first try. So now it has been 3 Weeks since I did all the Initial Work that I posted and yesterday I was with my Daughter and we had been running errands all over Town, We stopped at her High School to Pickup her Graduation Ceramony Tickets and Same Issue, NO Crank No Start and it was (95 degrees out in SW Florida)! My Daughter went on a Rampage about how she was Selling this Blanky Blank Car! I feel so bad as she leaves to go to College in Orlanda in 2 Weeks, and she will be 4 Hour Drive from home!
I first attempted to Jump Start and Still NO Crank No Start (Dash Lights were on when you turnkey) but No Click from Starter. Here's What I did:
A. High School Maintenace Guy brought out a Jumper Pack and he Claimed he had started V8 Trucks with it and it was fully Charged and Still NO Crank No Start, No Click from Starter Solenoid either.
B. We then Called State Farm's Roadside Service Unlimited Towing. When Tow Guy Came, he tried his extremely Powerful Battery Pack and we got it to Start briefly, and it ran terrible like it was not firing all all 4? Then it would Die after 15-20 seconds. Tried several Times but it would not stay Running and after Tow Truck Driver removed his Battery Pack Jumper Engine Would Die Immediately. On the Tow Home, Tow Truck Driver stated that he speculated it could be Alternator, because when he Removed his Jumper Pack Clamps it Died immediately, He said if Alternator was putting out 12 Volts it should at Least Stay Running? Not sure if that was correct but When I got Car Home, my Plan was to ensure Battery Had 12 Volts and Then if I could get it to Start, I would Test Alternator Output with My Multimeter. Well, it would Not Start No Crank No Start again at Home.
C. I Jacked up Car (2.4L Model 200) pulled off Front Drivers Side Wheel and Plastic Wheel Well Shroud and Tested the Battery Directly = 12.9 Volts! We just purchased the Car about a Month ago, the Battery is a DIE Hard Brand (Silver) and it was installed 4/2022 & when I did all the Work on her Car about 3 Weeks ago I pulled that Battery and went to Advance Auto and Had Battery Load Tested and after 10 Minutes on their Tester Green Light came on which meant Battery was Good under Load! So....
D. I tested the Jumper Post Up Top on the 2.4L I only had 2.4V so I said Ah Ha... There is my Sign... I Had replaced the Battery Terminals 3 Weeks ago with New/Old Stock I had in my Toolbox and the Positive Clamp actually had (Hidden Corrosion / Rust area under part that connected to Cable so I replaced that Clamp with Original I pulled off 3 Weeks ago, but I cleaned, and Wire brushed the Heck out of it First! Then after putting back together, I had 12.8Volts Now at the Upper Jump Starter Post so I told My Daughter OK it should Start she went in and Attempted to Start Car, and Again NO Start NO Crank! WOW
E. I had read online 3 Weeks ago that you can Reset the Electronics with this Car by ZIP Tying the Negative and Positive Battery Together, so I that and I wonder if that was my Problem?
I also Saw the Video you attached to another Forum Post on a No Start No Crank 2.4L and it showed Testing Starter by using a TEST Wire 12V on the Bottom of TIPM Yellow Grey Wire and I am Thinking of trying this Next? I don't think that is my Issue as I just Bought and Replaced Starter 3 Weeks ago with My Initial Parts Exchange on this Car... Pulling My Hair Out Man and I don't have Much Left Up top!
Please Help!

PS: if it seems like I am Repeating sometimes, it is because I can't see what I'm typing, So yeah Typos probably. My Browser will not let me Pull Past that Bottom Advertising Banner on 200Forums Website... I understand Ads need to Be Visible but with Microsoft Explorer Browser on my Desktop it is Virtually Impossible top Close or Get around that Bottow Banner to Be Able to See What I am Typing. I can Post and Then Go to My Profile and Pull up my Post and Then Edit but it's a lot of Extra Steps, Just giving Feedback for your Web designer, Love the Site Man ! 1 more thing when you posted Tech Bulletin Diagrams and Photos you posted Chrysler 200 (JS) wondering if you determined JS after I gave you the Last part of My VIN? or is the (JS) Diagram for all Chrysler 200 2.4L (Feel Free to Edit) my Post and Move this WEBDesign Feedback and JS Diagram Feedback question off of this Update on my Repair...200_S-Awd but I really do Love your Service and Value your Feedback and My Daughter does also! Please Help I'm going crazy trying to figure this intermittent NO Start No Crank issue out! Thought I had the Smoking Gun, when I found to 2.7 Volts up Top on the Jumper Post... But Not...



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Back in post #4 you have an image of your scan tool showing P0339. Off to the right of that says: Code/Total; 01/03.
Are there 2 more stored fault codes? Are they significant?

When it was running poorly on that tow truck jump start, did that set any codes? When he disconnected & the car died, that could be construed as a dead battery/defective alternator behavior, but I think that the battery & alternator themselves are fine.

The 'no-crank' / 'not-firing' issues may be 2 separate electrical problems? Being 'intermittent', you want to try to catch this when it is acting up (not cranking) as otherwise, everything will will test OK.
I am still leaning toward a wiring/connection problem. Something is interrupting the path between the battery & starter.
There are modules along the way to give a 'safe to start' decision: WIN (key security), PCM (park/neutral, etc) & TIPM ('smart' power distribution center).

These modules can store fault codes as well, but an OBDII scanner usually only reads the PCM. The PCM can also turn on a 'ck eng' light when it has a problem. The WIN should turn on the red 'security' dot in the cluster if it detects an issue. The charging system has a Battery light to alert you to problems. The TIPM really has no idiot light or any indication that it may be holding fault codes.

If the wiring between the battery & starter is OK and all the modules know the secret handshake, the car should start. Did the car come with a 2nd key? Has someone installed an aftermarket Remote Start/Security system by splicing it into the steering column/underdash wiring?

JS-body is the 2007-2014 200/Avenger. UF-body is the 2015-2017 200. Two very different platforms talked about here. They have to be kept separate.

I still use Internet Explorer for some older programs. It may be losing compatibility with some website software which may do better with Edge, Google or Firefox.
Use an AdBlock. Keeping screen Zoom levels down may help.

Some 'possible' TIPM fault codes that could be relevant & help in diagnosis:

• B2104-IGNITION RUN/START CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
• B2105-IGNITION RUN/START 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT - HIGH
• B2106-IGNITION RUN/START 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT - OPEN
• B2112-5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT LOW
• B2113-5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT HIGH
• B2122-IGNITION RUN CONTROL 1 CIRCUIT LOW
• B212F-IGNITION RUN/ACC CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
• B2148-IGNITION RUN CONTROL 2 CIRCUIT LOW
• B2184-IGNITION UNLOCK RUN/START CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
• B218B-IGNITION RUN/START 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT OVERCURRENT
• B2206-CURRENT VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
• B2215-FRONT CONTROL MODULE INTERNAL
• B222C-VEHICLE CONFIGURATION NOT PROGRAMMED

'Possible', relevant WIN codes:

• B1A23-RKE RECEIVER PERFORMANCE
• B1A24-KEY NOT PROGRAMMED
• B1A25-INVALID KEY
• B1A26-MAXIMUM NUMBER OF KEYS PROGRAMMED
• B1A27-SKREEM PROGRAMMING PERFORMANCE
• B1A28-ECM MISMATCH WITH SKIM
• B1A29-SKIM BASESTATION MISMATCH
• B1A67-STEERING COLUMN LOCK MODULE BOLT CONTROL PERFORMANCE
• B1A6B-STEERING COLUMN LOCK MODULE NOT INITIALIZED
• B2101-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT LOW
• B2102-IGNITION RUN/START INPUT HIGH
• B210A-SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
• B210B-SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH
• B210D-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
• B210E-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
• B2204-ECU CONFIGURATION MISMATCH
• B2205-ORIGINAL VIN MISSING/MISMATCH
• B2224-SKREEM INTERNAL
• B2228-SKREEM INTERNAL - RKE RECEIVER
• B2229-SKREEM INTERNAL - SKIM IMMOBILIZER

With all the work done so far (unplugging things), we may have inadvertently created some unrelated fault codes. Record any fault codes, erase them & let's see what comes back?

OK, its still No Crank No Start. Here's the Codes I have Now.. It first Pulled alot of Codes! I screenshotted them then after I Erased/Cleared









Them. The Horn has Never Worked since we bught the Car Approx 5 Weeks ago. But I beleive that that circuit and the SRS are somehow related and it troubles me if the Steering Wheel Airbag is Not working too.

Sorry if I duplicated any photos, I am still learning this New ThinkScanner and it makes you click ENTER into each category before it scans/Reads the codes. I will try to load the Very Last Photo whereas it only Shows BCM, after I cleared all Above Coded

All I have done after Tow Truck brought car home is:
1. Pulled Battery and Cleaned Cables on all Ends and Replaced the Positice Battery Clamp.Voltage Check=12.9 Volts Battery is Only 1 Year old and I have had it load tested and it is not the Problem

2. While Battery Was off the Car, I zip tied the Positive and Negative Cables together as I watched a Video on how this would clear capacitors and reset computer. Not sure if that was true but I tried it and Kept them Zip Tied for approx 20 Minutes. NO Battery any where near at that time Hope this did not cause any additional issues?

3. After I reinstalled the Battery, I was getting 12.9 Volts up on top from the Jumper Post too Now, Before it only had 2.8 Volts So that issue was fixed.

4. I tested all the Fuses in the TIPM and all tested good. I had previosly Disconnected and Cleaned the TIPM Cable from Positive Battery Lead and I unplugged all TIPM Connectors Sprayed with WD40 and put Dielectrical Grease on them as I put them all back togather, They are Color coded so no chance of getting those mixed up.

5. Attempted to Start and Still - No Crank No Start

I then hooked up my New "ThinkScan SF by ThinkCar" I was shocked at all the Codes that it pulled up!

6. I took Screen shots so I could upload to 200forums and the I Erased/ cleared the Codes!

7. The Only Codes that came back was the BCM and the Horn Circuit, all other codes did not reappear after rescan.
I attempted to Clear those 2 Codes a Second time and the Horn code Cleared but the BCM code would Not Clear (See the Last Photo I uploaded (Shows my Final Scan with just BCM Fault Code.

8. The Blinking Red Light at bottom of the Dashboard Right would blink approx 10 times then stop each time I would turn on the Key. Made me think possible Key Lost Programming? I had already put a New Battery in that Chip key about 3 weeks ago thinking that could have been an Issue, and (I only have the 1 Key Programmed), I bought and Cut a couple extra Keys but have not payd to program them yet. The 1 Key I have opens the Trunk and Locks just fine. It does NOT have the remote start option.

9. Important Note:
After I cleared all the Fault Codes and attempted to Start the Vehicle, I switched it from Park to Nuetral several times thinking it could be that switch, well while I was Moving that Shifter back and Forth, I noticed a Click Noise, the Click Noise was forward and under the Center Console/ Not the Acuators, I had already replaced an Acuator and they make a super loud Click Click Click. This Click was only 1 Click as I attempt to Start and not that loud. I was wondering if there is a Switch Located down under that Center Console-Forward area kinda under the Radio and HVCA Controls but inline with where that shifter cable would go thru to the Firewall?

10. Finally:
I'm thinking about possibly buying a Flagship PCM that would come with 2 New Programmed Keys $239 ??? I had to do that with my Sons Mazda Tribute and it worked out Fine and nice that it comes preprogrammed all they need is your VIN and it took about 10 Days to arrive-Not required to Return Core too? But Im not sure thats the Problem? It has a Sticker from Chrysler showing computer was reprogrammed in Oct 2021. Maybe there is still a Recall I can use or Once and done, not sure?

Anyway the Last Scan Just pulls the BCM Code, so hoping 200Forums can lead me down the riight path! I see my Post has Close to 600 veiws so must be several people with Similar No Crank No Start on this car.

* Noticed alot of Folks on this Forum do Not update their final results. Not this Guy! I will stick with this till the End and Update all to help others that have this Similar No Crank No Start issue! Thanks to all that Read and Reply

Final Scan, Just pulls BCM when I click into BCM Deeper it Shows 2 Active Codes:
1. B2338Horn Control Circuit Open and
2. U0100 Lost Communication with ECM/PCM

While it is in failure is the time to determine what the failure is. If it starts & runs, we find ourselves with nothing to look for or to look at.

A lot of the over-voltage codes may from the tow-truck jump. The modules have a certain degree of over-voltage & reverse-polarity protection, but there is still a risk of damage. I have had roadside service boosted tow-ins with module damage.

You should have the latest & greatest software update from the U67 recall in 2021. Whether the PCM is the problem or not remains to be proven.
Both B2338 & U0100 could be a TIPM issue. Only U0100 could be a PCM issue.

Does the (+) jump post stay around 12 volts when you turn the key to the 'start' position? It is fairly easy for a wire to hold 12 volts when it isn't under any load. I have had test points drop to near 0 volts when called upon to carry any real current.

This is a Thinkscan SF100? I want to briefly familiarize myself with the tools capabilities.
It can do a lot.
Can it show a horn button switch change state from open to closed? (B2338).
Can it show if the PCM is active on the CAN bus? (U0100).
Can it show a CAN bus topology? (to see what is active & what is not)








A sample topography of the modules:

Attached my New ThinkScan SF100 still I have a Lot to Learn on this Scanner....

I'm going out to Check for Voltage Drop on the JumpPost when I turn Key to Start now and will report back, but I doubled down on both the POositive and Negative Battery Cables since I had the Salvage yard Harness. Overkill, I know but I wanted to eliminate any possibility of Battery Cables. I also Have a Fluke Multimeter I borrowed from a Freind and Learning how to test cables.

I'll report back Thanks So Much!

Just got back inside from Testing in again

got:
CCN U113B

Lost Communication with PCM/BCM U0141

and the ABS"Brake" Codes Returned- It says its a Sensor on Passenger Front- That is really why I purchased the ThinkCar Scanner as it had a Nice Detail on the ABS Codes, so it did its job there.

I did not have a Helper tonight and I could not get the Multimeter to Secure and be able to see the LED Screen as I turned Key so I will need to do that test tomorrow.

I did Play around with the Multimeter a bit and Found that the Metal around the Starter and Solonoid Housing was only reading 9 Volts when I touched the Black lead on it. Also the TPS only read 9 volts but the Engine Heads and Block were all reading 12 Volts. The Metal Bracket that holds the PCM/BCM was only reading 7 Volts? Maybe I should unbolt that Bracket and Clean around the Bolts it attaches to? I also Pulled the TIPM up again and just double checked that I had all the Connecters Pushed in all the Way, butthe TIPM may have internal issues? It looks Extremely Clean tho and no Burned marks or Corrosion on the Circuit board.

I pin pointed the Click as I turned the Key and it is Just below the Center Console where the Gear Shifter Assembly is. If I try to Turn key to Start while in Park the Click is Louder than when I put gear shifter in Nuetral. Its just a Slight Click. I'm thinking its a Solonoid of some sort inside the Console. The Indicater Light Bulb is Burned out or Not working so tomorrow I plan on pulling that Console apart and change that bulb and see if I can determine the source of the Click.

I will update tomorrow after I do some more Homework you sent over with the Tech Service Bullitens.

Thank you so much for the Knowledge and assistance!

That 'click' in the center console may be the BTSI (brake-transmission shift interlock) solenoid. It locks the shifter in Park until you press the brake pedal. It also prevents you from removing the key if the shifter is not in Park.
It's normal.

I think that we are still dealing with 'bad connections' with those voltage readings. It may be hidden corrosion or loose fasteners? All connections must be solid, tight & clean.
You may not see a problem with a connection until it is apart. It may look fine from the outside. Paint is an insulator. Rust or oxidation is not a good conductor. Hard oxide scale may not come off with a wire brush & needs to be scraped off with a knife.

I have seen wires that had a 'lumpy' or 'kinked' appearance. Pulling slightly on the wire caused it to 'stretch' (the copper strands inside had broken).
Looking closer at the plastic wire covering, I saw pinholes. Someone had probed the wire by sticking it with a test light point. I cut the wire and green powder fell out. The copper had gone.

Underhood wiring is exposed to the weather.

Just getting ready to Start back in on the Car, Looks like Rain and Im outside here in SW Florida so Not sure how long I will have today. Just a couple of Questions:

1. Does my Chrysler 200 have a 2nd Underdash Fuse Box hidden somewhere as I have the Power Adapter Not Working under the Radio Area, The 2nd Power adapter works (Located inside the Sliding Console Compartment)?

2. Is there a TSB or somewhere it outlines what Voltages should be Reading on BCM Housing? Starter Housing? as I am attempting to look for Bad Grounds?

3. Any Ways to Test that TIPM to eliminate it as Problem? You had mentioned before that it does not store codes, If Im not mistaken? It does Look Extra Clean i. e. no burn marks or corrosion and no obviosly loose solder connections.

4. Would the Horn Open Circuit be tied into the BCM and Keeping the Car from Starting? Car ran fine before while the Horn did not work, so I guess what I'm saying do I have to go down that path just to get the Car to Start?

*I have little Wish list items such as Horn Fixed, Power Adapter 12V socket Working, Indicator Light Replaced on Gear shift Console, etc. But right now I have my 18 YR old Daughter asking me each Day is my Car Fixed Yet? So, If it is not tied into Starting System or the BCM (Which Horn may be as it is in Same Category on my Scanner Tool) just wondering if it is tied into starting I want to tackle it, but if it is Not, I want to table that code or issue until I get this Car Started, then swing back around, but you probably know that already.


Continued Appreciation!
I'm going to get this Car started or BUST!