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My 2013 has around 104000 miles. It just started having some acceleration issues, and the ETC was blinking on. So I decided to remove the throttle body and clean it really good. I put everything back together, and now it runs like total crap. The check engine light is on, the ETC light is flashing, the traction light is on. The codes I got with the key are 2172, 2110, 0579 and 0591. Is there anything I can do to fix this or do I need to spend a mortgage payment at a mechanic?
 

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  • P0579 Cruise Control Related Malfunction
I don't have listings for the other codes, but they are in the area for throttle position sensor codes, so I would suspect that they have been triggered because of the removal of the throttle body, and not necessarily because anything has failed.
Disconnect battery for 30 minutes and reconnect, then drive it awhile. It may have to relearn the throttle response.
 

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  • P0579 Cruise Control Related Malfunction
I don't have listings for the other codes, but they are in the area for throttle position sensor codes, so I would suspect that they have been triggered because of the removal of the throttle body, and not necessarily because anything has failed.
Disconnect battery for 30 minutes and reconnect, then drive it awhile. It may have to relearn the throttle response.
Do need to actually disconnect the battery or the charging post on the top of the engine?
 

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According to the service manual 2110 is for a stuck throttle body. It says to free it up and then run the ETC throttle relearn procedure. Trouble is the service manual expects the tech to have the Chrysler diagnostic software. I'm not sure it there is a way to force a relearn any other way. In some cars you can force a relearn by turning the key to the run position and wait 60 seconds. I don't know if that will work on your car.

There is a company who sells diagnostic software for your car that runs from a Windows laptop. You need a interface device between the ODB port and the laptop but those are not expensive. Neither is the software. You can get it for $50 and probably less than $25 more for the cable interface. Here is a link to the software...

https://appcar-diagfca.com/en/
 

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Yeah I tried unhooking the battery and it did no good. Unfortunately I have to get another top radiator connector tee, because mine broke. So once that gets here I'll try the battery again and see what happens. Thanks for the link.
 

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Here's what I would suggest. Get a used TB - maybe from a salvage yard. When you clean it before you put it on DO NOT manually pry open the plate to clean it. It's already open far enough for idle that spraying brake cleaner - brake cleaner only - will clean it thoroughly - not that there is a service interval to clean it.

It's easier than you'd think to ruin a drive by wire throttle body by manually forcing open the throttle plate - even with the ignition off and the battery un-plugged. The servo or stepper motor in it can be damaged by manually moving the throttle plate.

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems/cleaning-throttle-bodies
 

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Ok. So if I just put a brand new throttle body on the car, do I still need to program it? Or will that fix it? And what is the procedure for installing it correctly, so I dont end back up at this same place? Thanks a lot for the help everyone.
 

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So what did you do to fix it? Reason I didn't respond to your post is that I didn't know the answer. Now that you know the answer don't keep it a secret. Maybe someone else can benefit.
 
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