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I am new to the forum,& have a 2013 200 convertible, great car, purchased in 2014.all was fine until mid 2015 & 20k on O D, then it developed a clunking noise but only after it warmed up, maybe driving 10-20 miles? The dealer replaced some parts of the sway bar, but the clunking is still there. Mileage on the car is less than 25K.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Johnny B
 

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I had a similar clunk in my 2012 and found a post by the Chrysler rep with a TSB to replace the inner tie rod ends. In my case it only occurred after driving for at least 30 minutes and seemed worse in warm weather.

Replacing the inner tie rod ends fixed my car. They are not expensive parts but it's probably about a $300 job altogether. Maybe a little more at the dealer. I know some people have had the entire steering rack replaced and this does fix the problem but really it's only the inner tie rod ends that are the problem and that is much cheaper than a whole new rack.

Here is a copy and paste of the TSB... I know it talks about the steering wheel but it fixed my car even though mine sounded more like clunking from below the front of the car.

TSB 19-001-14

SUBJECT:
Clicking/Popping Noise While Turning Wheel

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing the inner tie rods.

MODELS:
2012 - 2013 JS Avenger / 200
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built on or after August 2, 2011and on or before May 6, 2013.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Customer may describe a clicking/popping noise while turning the wheel which occurs after vehicle has been driven for a minimum of 30 minutes at above idle. Noise typically heard when driving below 25 mph or when turning steering wheel while stopped.
 

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I found the problem! The noise is a drain water spout that goes down between the firewall and the engine. I don't know the name of this section (between hood and windshield) but it's where the water drains off the windshield acting as a basin with a drain hole that it connects to. If you look under your hood toward the back of the engine closes to the driver side you will see a black plastic tube connected that goes down, this is to keep the water draining straight down to the ground. anyway, this is your culprit. it just hangs down and is not secured to the firewall to keep it from moving and it is right next to the rear engine mount which is why it feels like it maybe in steering/suspension, it taps on the engine mount as you are driving. i just found this out over the weekend which is for the life of me, why I didn't find this years ago. I tie wrap mind. what a difference!

I guest better late than never.
 

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My front end clunking noise was also the slightly loose black plastic drain tube bumping up against the brake line on the brake manifold. A tie wrap fixed that. The drain tube has a flapper on the discharge and mine needed some leaves removed. The drain tube discharge can be seen if car on a rack or on ramps so everyone should have theirs checked. Thanks for someone posting as I could not find any suspension issues. Bought used in April with 56K miles and is a 2012 hardtop convertible.
 

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Well I thought I fixed my clunk with plastic drain tube fix but it returns when car warmed up. So ordering new tie rod set.

In my post above the brake lines are actually the power steering rack lines.
 

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I replaced by inner tie rods and that finally fixed the problem. The old ones did not have any looseness(at least when cold). I replaced them with the Mopar ones (they were made in the Czech Republic as opposed to China) and will be posting some pictures and writeup in the do-it-yourself section for those who want to do this themselves. The Mopar ones come with detailed instructions and I would recommend them even though they are somewhat higher price. Many aftermarket ones come with universal dust boots which probably will work but do not fit correctly on the groove machined on the tie rod. The Mopar dust boots are not available separately that I could find.
 
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