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This has been so frustrating, but I purchased the vehicle used with 39k miles on it. It has been 1 1/2 months and I have put 1500 miles on it and everything was running extremely smoothly. I get in the vehicle after work and turn it on and I noticed a slight vibration in the engine when idle. that I could feel in the steering wheel. I did not think too much of it initially but as I began driving it more over the next few days I just couldn't ignore it any longer. I took it into the Chrysler dealership and they had it for a week and FINALLY called me back in only to tell me it needed a TCM update..I take it and drive it home and the vibrations have gotten much worse during idle, during acceleration and in reverse. I know it is in the engine because it gets increasingly worse as the engine warms up and I am in drive but stopped. So much so that the plastic in the interior is vibrating so much it makes an extremely annoying clicking noise. I can't stand it, hopefully some of you folks can give me some suggestions! Please help, the dealership has told me that unless it pops a code there is absolutely nothing they can do which I somewhat agree with but there are components not attached to sensors in the powertrain and if something goes wrong with that how the **** am I supposed to have it covered under warranty coverage??
 

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I know at GM dealerships they employ vibration meters for this kind of problem. You may want to call back and ask if they will perform this.

Really you know what you need to do... you need to go back and talk with the service manager or writer about next steps.

My guess is the motor mounts should be inspected. Keep in mind that those probably are not covered under the powertrain warranty. The dealership was probably trying to do you a favor by billing Chrysler for the TCM update.
 

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:mad:
This has been so frustrating, but I purchased the vehicle used with 39k miles on it. It has been 1 1/2 months and I have put 1500 miles on it and everything was running extremely smoothly. I get in the vehicle after work and turn it on and I noticed a slight vibration in the engine when idle. that I could feel in the steering wheel. I did not think too much of it initially but as I began driving it more over the next few days I just couldn't ignore it any longer. I took it into the Chrysler dealership and they had it for a week and FINALLY called me back in only to tell me it needed a TCM update..I take it and drive it home and the vibrations have gotten much worse during idle, during acceleration and in reverse. I know it is in the engine because it gets increasingly worse as the engine warms up and I am in drive but stopped. So much so that the plastic in the interior is vibrating so much it makes an extremely annoying clicking noise. I can't stand it, hopefully some of you folks can give me some suggestions! Please help, the dealership has told me that unless it pops a code there is absolutely nothing they can do which I somewhat agree with but there are components not attached to sensors in the powertrain and if something goes wrong with that how the **** am I supposed to have it covered under warranty coverage??
Hi randymagnum,
I’m sorry to hear about the concern with your 200! I can certainly delve in a bit further on my end and follow up with your dealership if you’ll be scheduling another appointment to have them look at the vehicle again. Just shoot me a PM with your VIN if I can help.
Kori
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 

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Greetings,

Check your maintenance schedule for a 2.4 engine. My (2012 Avenger 2.4) requires a new set of plugs at 32K/miles and at 64K/ish also.

For some goofy reason this engine needs fresh plugs every 30K/miles or so. Check out the DIY on U tube or wherever, its soooooo easy to change the plugs Also you need to determine if you have a 2.4 PZEV (partial zero emission vehicle) or not. (call a dealer with your VIN) The reason is, there are two VERY DIFFERENT spark plugs for each engine along with different recommended spark plug gaps. After that, change your plugs on a nice Saturday afternoon. Oh yea, the dealer near me wanted $139.00 just to change (4) spark plugs.......NOTTTTTT!!!!



This "should" cut down your vibration problem........

Hope this helps....
 

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:mad:
This has been so frustrating, but I purchased the vehicle used with 39k miles on it. It has been 1 1/2 months and I have put 1500 miles on it and everything was running extremely smoothly. I get in the vehicle after work and turn it on and I noticed a slight vibration in the engine when idle. that I could feel in the steering wheel. I did not think too much of it initially but as I began driving it more over the next few days I just couldn't ignore it any longer. I took it into the Chrysler dealership and they had it for a week and FINALLY called me back in only to tell me it needed a TCM update..I take it and drive it home and the vibrations have gotten much worse during idle, during acceleration and in reverse. I know it is in the engine because it gets increasingly worse as the engine warms up and I am in drive but stopped. So much so that the plastic in the interior is vibrating so much it makes an extremely annoying clicking noise. I can't stand it, hopefully some of you folks can give me some suggestions! Please help, the dealership has told me that unless it pops a code there is absolutely nothing they can do which I somewhat agree with but there are components not attached to sensors in the powertrain and if something goes wrong with that how the **** am I supposed to have it covered under warranty coverage??
I'm having the exact same problem! When I bought my car 7 months ago with 25000 miles it ran like a dream! Now it idles so hard the hood shakes. Took it to the dealer as I'm still in warranty and they stated it was a normal idle. There is nothing normal about it. My steering wheel and hood should not be noticeably shaking.
 

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Same vibrations here.. Didn't have them when new BUT it seems the idle was higher then.. numerous TCM and other computer updates for better shifting, it seems the idle is lower.. Only vibrates when in gear and stopped.. In park it's fine.

I was told it's normal.. as the motor is under load..

When the idle was higher, you had to be sure brake pedal was firmly pressed, or it would creep forward..

JK
 

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I had the same problem with my 2015 200 limited with the 2.4L. After fixing the lifter clatter I replaced the passenger side motor mount and what do you know, idle shake is gone. Its 2021 and my car is 6 years old with only 61,600 original miles. One would think that the motor mounts would last longer. I removed the mount (15 minutes) and noticed that the rubber was torn and the bracket that attaches to the engine was sloppy. The new mount is strong and firm. What do you know, Problem solved. I ordered the drivers side mount and will replace it when it arrives next week. Mounts play a big part in the idle shake. Just make sure you have changed the plugs ( I bought Bosch) with fresh iridium plugs with the proper gap before you replace the mounts. Worn and old plugs can cause an idle speed misfire and it needs to be fixed first. Buy the OEM mounts and you will be happy. The two mounts cost me about $300 from AutoZone and it was worth it to have the shake finally gone. The transmission is also running better and not shifting oddly like it used to. Oh, I fixed the engine lifter clatter noise by adding 1/2 a can of Seafoam to the oil (and the rest to the gas tank) and then drove it for about 100 miles. Then I changed the oil and filter adding 1 quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer and 4 quarts of synthetic 0w-20. No more sounding like a gum ball machine and it's running like when I bought it new. I hope this helps to fix your idle shake and good luck.
 

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I had the same problem with my 2015 200 limited with the 2.4L. After fixing the lifter clatter I replaced the passenger side motor mount and what do you know, idle shake is gone. Its 2021 and my car is 6 years old with only 61,600 original miles. One would think that the motor mounts would last longer. I removed the mount (15 minutes) and noticed that the rubber was torn and the bracket that attaches to the engine was sloppy. The new mount is strong and firm. What do you know, Problem solved. I ordered the drivers side mount and will replace it when it arrives next week. Mounts play a big part in the idle shake. Just make sure you have changed the plugs ( I bought Bosch) with fresh iridium plugs with the proper gap before you replace the mounts. Worn and old plugs can cause an idle speed misfire and it needs to be fixed first. Buy the OEM mounts and you will be happy. The two mounts cost me about $300 from AutoZone and it was worth it to have the shake finally gone. The transmission is also running better and not shifting oddly like it used to. Oh, I fixed the engine lifter clatter noise by adding 1/2 a can of Seafoam to the oil (and the rest to the gas tank) and then drove it for about 100 miles. Then I changed the oil and filter adding 1 quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer and 4 quarts of synthetic 0w-20. No more sounding like a gum ball machine and it's running like when I bought it new. I hope this helps to fix your idle shake and good luck.
[/QUOTE

Hi. So like you all are saying, I'm currently going through this with my 2016 200 2.4L . I take real good care of it, recommend services on time, oil changes on time, power stop brakes on it, about 116K miles but nearly all highway driven. tune up done about 50K miles. and just like you all said, one day your car is fine, you go out to start and it shakes. I did all the little things first rotate tires, balanced tires, oil change, air filter, then I suggest shop check motor mounts. they said that's the culprit, well guess what.....it's WORSE now!! people think I'm crazy when they drive my car or with me and feel nothing wrong. it shakes when starting, kind of a hard start, everything inside (plastic, glass, you name it) is vibrating. crazy thing is I've had 2 different shops replace mounts. 1st shop did all 3, (trans mount twice), the 2nd shop did the upper mounts. AND NO ONE BELIEVES me when I say it's not right
 

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It is important to know which 2.4L you have. PZEV or non-PZEV (partial-zero emissions vehicle).
The non-PZEV has Copper-Nickel spark plugs with a 32K mile (60K km) change interval.
The PZEV has Platinum plugs with a 102K mile (200K km) change interval.

Use OEM Champion or NGK spark plugs for best burn. You can use Iridium plugs to substitute for Platinums, but keep the Copper-Nickels the same. Platinums last longer, but Copper is a better conductor (of both heat and electricity).
Engine/transaxle mount alignment is important. The mount bolt holes are slotted to adjust the mount position. As long as the car has not been hit, the mount position should not need to be moved from where the old mount position was. Use the marks left behind from the bolt washers to line up the new mounts. If a misaligned mount touches the body sheetmetal, it can transmit noise and vibration into the whole body structure. Use OEM parts only.

Many 2.4L's are currently under a recall campaign for oil consumption issues. This PCM software is the latest and grreatest to date. Even if your vehicle is good with oil consumption, I recommend having the recall done. The software improvements of the past versions are all included in the new version.

2013-2014:

2015:

2016:
 

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It is important to know which 2.4L you have. PZEV or non-PZEV (partial-zero emissions vehicle).
The non-PZEV has Copper-Nickel spark plugs with a 32K mile (60K km) change interval.
The PZEV has Platinum plugs with a 102K mile (200K km) change interval.

Use OEM Champion or NGK spark plugs for best burn. You can use Iridium plugs to substitute for Platinums, but keep the Copper-Nickels the same. Platinums last longer, but Copper is a better conductor (of both heat and electricity).
Engine/transaxle mount alignment is important. The mount bolt holes are slotted to adjust the mount position. As long as the car has not been hit, the mount position should not need to be moved from where the old mount position was. Use the marks left behind from the bolt washers to line up the new mounts. If a misaligned mount touches the body sheetmetal, it can transmit noise and vibration into the whole body structure. Use OEM parts only.

Many 2.4L's are currently under a recall campaign for oil consumption issues. This PCM software is the latest and grreatest to date. Even if your vehicle is good with oil consumption, I recommend having the recall done. The software improvements of the past versions are all included in the new version.

2013-2014:

2015:

2016:
Just to clarify please.
The recall updates to the latest version, which you noted before was TSB 18-083-18. Am I correct in understanding that.
Or do they charge for a complete update to the system first if a vehicle is over the mileage for the emissions exemption ?

Sadly the dealer I have used attempted to charge me previously for an update that UConnect ( I know, not the same ) had said was free. That involved getting them on the phone together so I didn't need to pay up. The trust level is not good.

Don't get me wrong. I'll gladly pay for whatever updates and a proxy alignment if needed. Just curious before I head the dealer.
Just noticed the trans did a funny hiccup and slip as I pulled away from a stop sign. It hadn't fully dropped down to first and was sitting in third when it spun up a little until I lifted.
I really want to keep this car for a while longer. Or until we see a nice Chrysler sedan again. Hope springs eternal.
 

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The 2.4L is built in 4 flavors, 2 of which are electronic start-stop (ESS) engines, which are for other emission markets.

ED6 - 2.4L w/MultiAir, non-PZEV EDD - 2.4L w/MultiAir, w/ESS, non-PZEV
ED8 - 2.4L w/MultiAir, PZEV EDE - 2.4L w/MultiAir, w/ESS, PZEV
The 3.6L V6 is sales code ERB.

You will note that the bulletin covers both the NAFTA ED6 and ED8 engines.

I think that any good service writer at the service desk has to explain the shop policies and pricing up front as the work order is being written up. It does not apply to you if the job is covered under warranty.
In the USA (I don't know Canadian policy) the PCM and catalyst is covered under an 8 year/80K mile Extended Federal Emissions warranty. This includes software updates for the PCM.
All other modules are under the basic 3 year/36K mile warranty. Updating them should be reasonable, as should operations like Quicklearns and PROXI.
Dealer shop policies can vary with minimum charges and diagnostic fees, flat rates, etc. Some shops tack on 10% for shop materials to help defray overhead.
The shop diagnostic fee and minimum charge are the same at many shops at 1 hour of labor. As long as they can do it for the minimum charge, they will go ahead with the repair.
If it looks like it will go over the minimum, they are supposed to stop and contact you with an estimate for approval.
At the service desk, you can ask about service specials, coupons and discounts.
I had a service writer who kept coupons under his desk for undecided customers to help sell the job. It was a win-win. Seniors and Veterans should ask about discounts.
You can ask for the old parts, except parts that have to be returned for a core deposit or warranty.
 
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The 2.4L is built in 4 flavors, 2 of which are electronic start-stop (ESS) engines, which are for other emission markets.

ED6 - 2.4L w/MultiAir, non-PZEV EDD - 2.4L w/MultiAir, w/ESS, non-PZEV
ED8 - 2.4L w/MultiAir, PZEV EDE - 2.4L w/MultiAir, w/ESS, PZEV
The 3.6L V6 is sales code ERB.

You will note that the bulletin covers both the NAFTA ED6 and ED8 engines.

I think that any good service writer at the service desk has to explain the shop policies and pricing up front as the work order is being written up. It does not apply to you if the job is covered under warranty.
In the USA (I don't know Canadian policy) the PCM and catalyst is covered under an 8 year/80K mile Extended Federal Emissions warranty. This includes software updates for the PCM.
All other modules are under the basic 3 year/36K mile warranty. Updating them should be reasonable, as should operations like Quicklearns and PROXI.
Dealer shop policies can vary with minimum charges and diagnostic fees, flat rates, etc. Some shops tack on 10% for shop materials to help defray overhead.
The shop diagnostic fee and minimum charge are the same at many shops at 1 hour of labor. As long as they can do it for the minimum charge, they will go ahead with the repair.
If it looks like it will go over the minimum, they are supposed to stop and contact you with an estimate for approval.
At the service desk, you can ask about service specials, coupons and discounts.
I had a service writer who kept coupons under his desk for undecided customers to help sell the job. It was a win-win. Seniors and Veterans should ask about discounts.
You can ask for the old parts, except parts that have to be returned for a core deposit or warranty.
So the W84 campaign updates the PCM to the latest version ?
Will it need a proxi align or quicklearn ? ( I am at 124,000 miles )
What particular updates would you suggest for my 2015 with the 2.4 engine and what transmission updates ?
 

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The Quicklearn and PROXI are only necessary for the TCM (transaxle) flash update, not really for any other update.
After my TCM update, my PROXI wasn't 'missing' but the tech turned it off and then back on again. This may have reset the PROXI? The 9-speed has shifted as smooth as butter ever since.

The W84 recall adds the oil consumption fix to all the 'legacy' symptoms/conditions addressed in past TSB's.
I would say to do any updates to modules that have one pending.
It has been my experience that an update always improves at least some aspect of the module's operation. Some subtle, some may make it feel like a completely different car.
 
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My 2015 200 Limited makes some horrible vibrations when it's in gear say at a stop light, and worse when the AC is on. When I put it in Neutral it's idle purrs, in park same ugly vibration.
We did just hit 100,000 but I take pretty good care my girl...dealer says they'd need to run diagnostics and blah blah blah. At this point I'm pretty much trying to keep my husband away from the dealer, he's ready to trade my girl in 😆 anyway, I had a feeling it's a mount.
I came her searching info about the w84 text I got from my dealership. Last time I took her in (for blown ac motor) and the time before that (for airbag sensor) I swear they don't do a complete fix (my airbag notification is CONSTANTLY being tripped because the actual sensor hangs from under the passenger side front seat) appreciate any help!
 

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Welcome to the forums. Diagnosis always has to come first. Most dealers have a set rate of 1 hour labor to get started. If they need more time to figure it out, they should call with an estimate for your approval.
Dig up your receipt for the past Airbag work and bring it with you. Ask them to review the situation with the Airbag warning light and hanging part.
Get W84 done, it is a PCM software update that includes the software enhancements from past updates, some of which address idle issues:
You may want to try the recall first, before moving on to the possibility of defective mounts.
 
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