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Sorry to hear that. I have a similar issue where it sometimes shifts very violently. They flashed the tranny at the dealership and it corrected it. A couple months went by and the same thing happened. I also got the service transmission light but it went away and they said they cannot duplicate the issue. I am not sure what to do. They keep saying they cannot duplicate it and there are no codes. Any suggestions?
 

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As others have stated on this forum, get your phone out if you have one and take video of your messages that are being displayed if it's safe for you to do so. The dealer (and the factory if needed) cannot argue with the video.
 

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Hello,

I own a 2015 200 S with 9k miles. Driving home from work Wednesday at highway speeds I got a message that said "Service Transmission" as well as a check engine light. When I tried to accelerate it would not shift out of 8th gear and the paddle shifters would not shift either. I came to a red light eventually and pulled to the side. Once green I realized I had very little power. I shut the car off and restarted it to find the CEI light still on but the transmission message gone. I drove slowly to the dealer where after two days of reprogramming the TCM they say that they have ordered a valve body for the transmission and it will be done next week. I see there are many issues with these transmissions. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I have read a few posts that say some people needed a whole new transmission. I am just worried the dealership is just guessing at the issue. Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff
I had 35k on my car and I had a valve body replaced new transmission installed and as well I had wiring harness and then again valve body replace for the second time and I still have the problem. I am about to file a complaint about this issue if I get it one more time. This is the safety for me and my daughter and girlfriend so I take this serious.
 

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Last night while driving on the highway I had the service transmissions message come on as well. It also stated that the paddle shifters would not be able to be used until the service. After a while the message went off but the check engine light stays on. This morning I noticed that the remote start shot off and I got a message and it has been deactivated. I assume it is because of the check engine light being on. I am bring in my car tomorrow morning.
 

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Did you have all the recalls done on your vehicule?
 

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Did you have all the recalls done on your vehicule?
As far as I know yes. I was there in November for an oil change and they did a complete update as I was told.

Funny thing is, today the check engine light went off and everything is back to normal.
 

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As far as I know yes. I was there in November for an oil change and they did a complete update as I was told.

Funny thing is, today the check engine light went off and everything is back to normal.
You really need to buy an OBD2 code scanner, a Bluetooth one costs $20 and works with any $20 prepaid Android phone.

Often on these CUSW cars, codes are stored even after the check engine light goes off. I would scan regularly and see what comes up. Then show the dealer that it's storing those codes.
 

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I know that on my trips to the dealer, I roll into the check-in lane and the person there plugs into the cars OBD port ... every time.
That sends information to the service advisor's computer. He then has a complete read out on our car, including stored codes and available updates, recalls, etc.
Don't hesitate to take you vehicle to the dealer to see why the CEL came on. It stored the code, I am sure.
 

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You really need to buy an OBD2 code scanner, a Bluetooth one costs $20 and works with any $20 prepaid Android phone.

Often on these CUSW cars, codes are stored even after the check engine light goes off. I would scan regularly and see what comes up. Then show the dealer that it's storing those codes.
Are there any that you can suggest? And are there any in that price range that will work with an iphone?
 

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Just wanted to chime in and share my experience with this issue.

Minimally driving my car with no problems, notifications or problems this winter. Parked it for a week, returned to a dead battery. Got a boost and it was great again. Recently parked the car for a week and it wouldn't start and threw me alternating 'service transmission' and 'service park break'. D was flashing on the shifter knob, unable to turn it.

Car has 36,000 KM, V6 200s, manufactured Dec 14. Also an ignition interlock blow start device (checks for alcohol). Once brought the car in to fix the rough 2-3 shift, it didn't work, I wasn't complaining.

All this is alarming as my basic 3yr warranty expired and after 4 hours of frustration on the phone with chrysler and multiple dealers, after having it towed and the dealer checked and told me it was going to be electrical not covered I was freaking out.

I'm unemployed and have minimal funds, this is one **** of an expense and suprise that I have more issues not using the car than when I do! I politely asked them if wouldn't mind showing me the codes and she comes back with two pages of stored codes and about 4 active, including transmission. I was barely using the vehicle and it was absolutely fine!

It's a great car, I love it. But after reading these forums I really wish I could get rid of it but I'll never get anything close as good as her with such low depreciation and my horrible credit.

Guess I'll wait and see if 5yr powertrain warranty will cover the cost. I didn't purchase the vehicle from chrysler.
 

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Just wanted to chime in and share my experience with this issue.

Minimally driving my car with no problems, notifications or problems this winter. Parked it for a week, returned to a dead battery. Got a boost and it was great again. Recently parked the car for a week and it wouldn't start and threw me alternating 'service transmission' and 'service park break'. D was flashing on the shifter knob, unable to turn it.

Car has 36,000 KM, V6 200s, manufactured Dec 14. Also an ignition interlock blow start device (checks for alcohol). Once brought the car in to fix the rough 2-3 shift, it didn't work, I wasn't complaining.

All this is alarming as my basic 3yr warranty expired and after 4 hours of frustration on the phone with chrysler and multiple dealers, after having it towed and the dealer checked and told me it was going to be electrical not covered I was freaking out.

I'm unemployed and have minimal funds, this is one **** of an expense and suprise that I have more issues not using the car than when I do! I politely asked them if wouldn't mind showing me the codes and she comes back with two pages of stored codes and about 4 active, including transmission. I was barely using the vehicle and it was absolutely fine!

It's a great car, I love it. But after reading these forums I really wish I could get rid of it but I'll never get anything close as good as her with such low depreciation and my horrible credit.

Guess I'll wait and see if 5yr powertrain warranty will cover the cost. I didn't purchase the vehicle from chrysler.
Sorry your having issues with the car.
But the first thing I can say for sure is this, replace the battery and most issues ( if not all ) will disappear.
The tell tale sign is letting it sit for a week and the battery dies. It's old, weak and needs replacement.
 

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replace the battery and most issues ( if not all ) will disappear.
The tell tale sign is letting it sit for a week and the battery dies. It's old, weak and needs replacement.
Yes, this seems to be a fairly common complaint with this 200. I had my battery replaced under warranty this past new years. At the time, my car was near enough two and a half years old.
 

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Thank you both for the replies. I have been told by the dealer that battery acid has leaked onto the engine and wiring harness and it will be 3900 to repair the damage.

I'm losing my mind right now. How in the ****... is it possible that my ignition interlock fried the battery? I have no idea what to do from here.
 

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Thank you both for the replies. I have been told by the dealer that battery acid has leaked onto the engine and wiring harness and it will be 3900 to repair the damage.

I'm losing my mind right now. How in the ****... is it possible that my ignition interlock fried the battery? I have no idea what to do from here.
Dealers are expensive for repairs, take pictures, get a printout of the quote from the dealer to see what's needed and shop around different auto repair shops. Might get it done for $1,000.
I did that for a PT cruiser I had before, needed an A/C kit, everywhere was nearly $2,000, got it done at BrakeMasters for $950, also another car I had needed a flywheel, dealer... was $1,500 just labor to remove all the stuff around it, went to a mechanic where they repair junk cars..., and they did it for $350.
Shop around, you'll save a ton of cash, and try to do some of it yourself too.
 

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Also, battery leaked and caused all that damage, isn't there a warranty for the battery that covers damages caused by failure of the battery? Batteries die, but it's not normal for them to leak acid and F up everything, look into it. If the battery was from the dealer, insist that they are responsible for selling you a defective battery, file a claim if you have to, you don't have much to lose at this point.
 

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Thank you both for the replies. I have been told by the dealer that battery acid has leaked onto the engine and wiring harness and it will be 3900 to repair the damage.

I'm losing my mind right now. How in the ****... is it possible that my ignition interlock fried the battery? I have no idea what to do from here.
Did you have the ignition interlock installed by a dealer or shop ?
If so, then the installer might be responsible for the defective wiring used to hook up the system.

I suspect you don't have comprehensive insurance on your vehicle either. That would cover that type of damage also.

Also, if all those things don't give you results, then check for junk yard vehicles that could supply you with the needed parts.
 

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Intelligent battery chargers cost 100$ today. I have one for every vehicule I own with quick connect plugs. As soon as I leave for more than 2 days I plug my cars and my 2015 200S is still running on the OEM battery after 4 years and 4 tough Québec city winters even though it powers 2 amplifiers, a LOC and a SSI device.
 
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