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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am new to this forum but not new to modding cars. I have done most of the modding work on my 2004 STi and I am looking to stiffen up the suspension on my 2015 200C AWD. The problem is there aren't very many options for the car at this time. I know Scale makes a coilover kit and I am considering that with softer Swift springs as the answer. However, with this being my daily driver I don't want it to feel like my STi with coilovers. It just needs a bit more sportiness. What I am considering is looking into suspension upgrades for the Alfa Giulietta, because as far as I am aware the 200C shares its platform. If it really does share the suspension parts; then maybe using the aftermarket options for that car would work well for the 200c. I looked at some pictures of them on the website below and from what I can tell the struts for the Giulietta look identical to the 200c. I am not so sure about the rear shocks as I have heard of issues with Scale coil overs and AWDs not fitting properly if you pick up the wrong set.

I am wondering if anyone here has looked into this also. Also if there is any information about where to look to verify the suspensions of the two cars, that would be helpful also.

The website I found is http://shop.alfisti.net/Tuning-Styling/Alfa-Giulietta/Suspensions:::1_405_411.html.
 

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Since nobody on this site yet is doing "Heavy duty" modding at this point............ I would say you would have to be the ground breaker...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea that's what it looks like. I am thinking I may just get one strut and shock starting out to see if they will fit before going all in.
 
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Bump!

I found this post in the search for upgraded/aftermarket suspension components for my 200C awd as well. Had no idea that the Alfa Giulietta had the same components. Looking online I do agree they look very similar but did anyone here or @Ravel36 get a chance to try any first hand?

Looking at the Bilstein B4 series, B6 etc seems might be a good candidate if so.
Bilstein B4 Alfa Giulietta
 

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Not sure if it’s against the forum rules to post links to other forums , if so I will delete post, but found some interesting info on the topic

200 v Alfa
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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See the 'related vehicles' listed in the Wiki; 200, Dart and Cherokee. Not that parts will fit between them, but the designs and some parts may be similar:
The rear calipers have the cursive 'Alfa-Romeo' script cast into them on mine.
The rear control arms on the GA/GU look more robust than the UF 200 (even with AWD).
A parts catalog may reveal same part numbers used? At least it looks like FCA uses the same parts cataloging and numbering layout.
(I would encourage any links that may help to answer members questions.) :)
 

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Thank you for the quick reply @200_S_AWD ! I will look over my the documents you attached much appreciated.

My main interest is actually in the front struts as they seem most important for ride comfort, longevity of strut, performance etc. Sorry for the confusion when I just stated suspension in first post and thanks again!
Any other users who might have first hand experience would love to hear feedback.
 

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Front suspension looks totally different between Alfa and 200.
 

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Ah darn then it appears that the original post was a misdirection after all.
So just the Monroe OESpectrum strut then as it seems only available as far as direct fitment?
 

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You may want to look at prices for 200 S suspension parts. I would think that the springs and dampers are stiffer than the 200 C.
 
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You may want to look at prices for 200 S suspension parts. I would think that the springs and dampers are stiffer than the 200 C.
Is that referring to Mopar oem replacement front struts for the 200 S, and if not could you point me in the direction of any aftermarket available? Only things I’ve found are the Monroe OE Spectrum strut and the Masterpro Complete strut from oreillys.

From what I’ve read you want to stay clear of the complete strut kits, I’d prefer to keep the stock coil spring and just replace the strut itself anyway as it’s cheaper and the spring is just fine.

Looking like it’ll be Monroe at this point unless anybody else has found high quality aftermarket solutions for front struts . Also, it seems the same Monroe strut are used as replacement for all model 200 S/C/Limited...
 

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You may be fine just replacing the struts. The springs are different (stiffer), but you may not notice any change in ride/handling firmness, especially in the 'seat of the pants' comparison test.
Going to the optional 19" wheels & tires would probably be a bigger factor in ride/handling quality.
Back in the day, I installed 'firm feel' struts in my Horizon. It made the car feel totally more enjoyable to drive. I knew that 'firm feel' was a package that included stiffer springs, bushings, sway bar, steering gear, etc., but the struts were all the difference I was looking for.
I got a 4-wheel alignment after a new set of tires on the 'S'. I felt that they had worn prematurely. Because they were Ectopias?
 
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You may be fine just replacing the struts. The springs are different (stiffer), but you may not notice any change in ride/handling firmness, especially in the 'seat of the pants' comparison test.
Going to the optional 19" wheels & tires would probably be a bigger factor in ride/handling quality.
Back in the day, I installed 'firm feel' struts in my Horizon. It made the car feel totally more enjoyable to drive. I knew that 'firm feel' was a package that included stiffer springs, bushings, sway bar, steering gear, etc., but the struts were all the difference I was looking for.
I got a 4-wheel alignment after a new set of tires on the 'S'. I felt that they had worn prematurely. Because they were Ectopias?
The stock struts, currently at 120k miles, have been leaking for some time and at this point I’d say are entirely blown. I know replacing the struts will solve the issue, my question is where to source aftermarket front struts other than the Monroe OE Spectrum, if any exist. That being higher quality than Monroe such as Bilstein etc. If you notice the design on the Bilstein B4, B6, B8 struts... visually look much more robust with larger arm for shock absorber.

If the Monroe OE can perform as well as oem for at least 60k then I have no problem going that route. Was just scouring for any first hand experience on the subject. Will update after I install the new struts here over the next couple weeks, Monroe OE Spectrum its looking like at this point if nobody else speaks up by then with possible alternatives .
Ive got brand new set of tires recently as well as lifetime alignment and the techs have a hard time completing an alignment with worn struts.
 

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While I don't have 60K miles on them yet so I can't speak to long term reliability I did install the Monroe struts in my 200 in late 2019. I also noticed the lack of aftermarket options but so far anyway the Monroes have been fine. The lack of options is likely due to this car not being in production for too many years and not a ton of them being out there compared to some other cars.

If you plan to install them yourself a few things to keep in mind (you might already know all this, but just in case):
  • The way the struts attach to the steering knuckle means you have to remove the knuckle from the vehicle to be able to remove the strut. There are videos I've seen of people who were able to get the strut out by compressing the spring while it's still in the car but there's not a lot of room to work with and there was no way I would have been able to get my spring compressor in there.
  • Liquid wrench or some other penetrating oil is your friend here. Getting some of the parts to separate from the knuckle was a total pain and spraying the attachment points down with Liquid Wrench and letting is sit for a while helped out a lot.
  • If you are planning on doing brakes or replacing the bearings/hubs anytime soon this is a good time to do it. The brakes have to be taken off anyway and you'll be most of the way to hub removal as well. The hub is also much easier to remove when the knuckle is out of the car since the bolts can be tough to access otherwise.
  • You will either need a helper or a floor jack or other support to hold the new strut in the tower while you attach the plastic ring that holds it in. Since these struts use a plastic ring instead of bolts it's a bit more of a pain to get it attached. Putting a jack under it worked for me. Also make sure to get a new ring since they are considered one time use.
 
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All struts are gas-charged nowadays, so the ride-height will likely change with new dampers. This will necessitate a revisit to the alignment rack.
There was a TSB on leaky dampers awhile back. Most of what it covers is common sense knowledge:
I would probably only go with OEM dampers myself. Mopar # 68248438AA (Rt) & 68248439AA (Lt). They don't have to be purchased from a dealer and there is a price spread online.
 
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Appreciate the feedback & tips @Paul_N ! Glad to hear the Monroe option is dependable, most likely will go this route. Did you notice a change in ride height as @200 S AWD mentions? Smooth quiet ride so far?

Stock mopar are tempting but I’m questioning if the extra cost equates to higher quality. Thanks again for the assistance this community rocks
 

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No changes to the ride height that I noticed but I wasn't even thinking to look for it so it's possible it did change. The OEM struts were 5 years old at the time and worn out, not to the point of leaking but the ride was definitely bouncier then it had been so it would be tough to notice if the ride height changed. So far it's been a much smoother ride than the worn out struts and pretty quiet.

Part of the reason I chose to replace the struts when I did, besides them being on their way out, was I also had a bearing noise and since the procedures involved a lot of the same steps I decided to do them both at the same time (I replaced both front bearings since they aren't that expensive and I figured if one went bad the other might not be far behind).

On a funny note about ride noises I recently had a rattle noise coming from the front that I thought might be a stabilizer link or CV joint. Took the wheel off and found that the metal shield behind the rotor was slightly bent at the bottom and was hitting the rotor when shaken. A little bending back and problem solved. Gotta love it when it's something simple!
 
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