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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am working on a 2015 200 for a poor single mother friend that paid $8K for this vehicle that has bondo in EVERY body panel. She recently had the engine quit. I tested everything and the fuel pump terminal is getting 12V until it is hooked to the fuel pump, then only 5V, so the fuel pump is not running. If I hook 12V directly to the pump, it runs like a champ (both the pump and the engine). After looking around the wiring, it turns out that sometime during the bodywork, someone set the trunk sound padding over the right rear wheel well on fire and melted the wiring harness! They spliced in a replacement harness by twisting the wires together and then taping them up!!! I am specifically looking for the fuel pump wiring, but she has intermittent loss of the right rear brake light, the electronic trunk release, and the backup camera. I can fix the wires by soldering them up and putting heat shrink tubing on them, but would like to make sure there is not a fuel pump relay or ground point somewhere that I am missing. I checked the fuel pump fuse under the hood and it has a strong, constant good voltage. When I enable the fuel pump from my AlfaOBD software, I hear what I think to be a relay click, but have been unable to locate it so far. I have not tested to see if it is losing the positive or ground under load yet, but was hoping to get a diagram to speed things up. I looked into getting a Haynes manual, but someone said that it does not have a wiring diagram for this year model. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!

PS it is a 2015 with the 4 cylinder, automatic transmission and pushbutton start.

THANKS!
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. The fire damage looks localized and the wiring looks repairable. Replacing the rear harness looks like too much work. Splice, solder, shrink-wrap & tape wrap should fix it.
First, get the wiring back to what it was.
There is a fuel pump relay, but it is soldered to the board and not generally serviced. I doubt it is the problem anyways.
Fuse F43 is after the relay. Does the voltage drop to 5v here?

If the engine isn't running, the fuel pump may be turned off for safety (auto shutdown) bt the PDC logic. This may be normal. The pump should run for about a second when first turning the 'run/start' button on to prime the system. The pump will run again once it senses engine rotation.

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Haynes & Chiltons are fairly useless for this kind ot repair. Used Tech Authority 2015 UF-body discs show up on ebay fairly often. The 2015-2017 UF were mostly the same and very similar to the Dart (PF), Cherokee (KL) and Pacifica (RU) electrically.
The factory manual is complete and accurate. Tech Authority is the authorized distributor of factory service publications.

The dcctools website shows useful connector, pinout & wire color info:

The rear brake lights, backup camera and trunk release are all controlled by the BCM. If you still have outages after the wiring repair, get the BCM scanned for fault codes. These are body codes, not OBD2 codes like powertrain, so a more capable scan tool may be needed.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
WOW! Thanks! It turned out to be the ground that was causing the fuel pump, light, and trunk release issues. Now to untwist, solder and heat-shrink-tube up all the wires to see if I can get her backup camera working. The information you provided was VERY valuable. I did not know the fuel pump fuse was after the pcb mounted relay. It was a full 12V for the priming and cranking phases. I had not checked for a ground problem until this morning, and voila! That was it! The AlfaOBD software is capable of connecting to the different modules (it can even do a proxy alignment if needed!). I will scan for codes in the BCM after I complete the wiring repair. Once again thank you for the QUICK and thorough reply!
 

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Another option is to use butt connectors. With the proper tool to set the connectors and a heat gun you will have a good solid connection.


Harbor freight also has a tool for crimping the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info on those butt connectors. I do sometimes use crimp connectors, but I prefer to use uninsulated butt connectors, solder them on the wires, then use marine heat shrink tubing over them (the tubing has a sealer inside of it that creates a watertight seal when it is heated). Overkill, I know, but it leaves a very smooth finished product. It also eliminates the possibility of the connectors with the pre-installed heat shrink tubing from getting any holes in the tubing while crimping them. About the only other thing I would do is to crimp AND solder the uninsulated butt connectors, but that results in a less smooth finish, plus is not really necessary for low current applications.
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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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The trunk, like inside the doors and engine compartment can get damp.
I like to weatherproof splice repairs.
There are butt splices with shrinkable insulation. When it shrinks, it seals the ends with hot glue.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yep, that is why I use the marine heat shrink tubing. Soldering instead of crimping eliminates the possibility (even though small) of the heat-shrink tubing sustaining damage from the crimping process. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, it is very sad that there are people out there that would take advantage of a single mother by selling her a car in the shape it was in. It's a miracle they were not seriously injured when it died on them in the middle of late afternoon Texas traffic. Helping people out is why we are here on this earth. My many thanks to the 200 group (especially 200_S_AWD) for your help in getting her back on the road safely!
 
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