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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The radiator fan comes on as soon as the ignition is turned on. I understand that the relay is integrated within the power distribution center. Does anyone know if the entire power distribution center has to be replaced or just the top part that houses the fuses.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forums. 2.4L? I wouldn't jump the gun and start replacing parts without doing a diagnosis first.
Any fault codes?

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
no codes. I just replaced the fan because the old fan did not work. after replacing the fan is when I noticed the fan ran constantly. I also replaced the temperature sensor.
 

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This is an OEM (not necessarily Mopar) part? 68197298AB or equivalent?
The Rd wire is powered all the time. The Bk wire must be a good ground.
The DBu/LBu wire is the fan enable signal. It should be powered after the engine is running pending a request from the Br/Vt control signal wire to turn it on.
Is the Br/Vt wire also powered after the engine is running? This is the actual fan on/off control wire. It should only be on when the PCM determines that cooling is needed.
Does the A/C compressor clutch stay engaged all the time while the engine is running?

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is an OEM (not necessarily Mopar) part? 68197298AB or equivalent?
The Rd wire is powered all the time. The Bk wire must be a good ground.
The DBu/LBu wire is the fan enable signal. It should be powered after the engine is running pending a request from the Br/Vt control signal wire to turn it on.
Is the Br/Vt wire also powered after the engine is running? This is the actual fan on/off control wire. It should only be on when the PCM determines that cooling is needed.
Does the A/C compressor clutch stay engaged all the time while the engine is running?

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I don’t believe so, will check later today. But fan does come on when ignition is on position, even without motor running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is an OEM (not necessarily Mopar) part? 68197298AB or equivalent?
The Rd wire is powered all the time. The Bk wire must be a good ground.
The DBu/LBu wire is the fan enable signal. It should be powered after the engine is running pending a request from the Br/Vt control signal wire to turn it on.
Is the Br/Vt wire also powered after the engine is running? This is the actual fan on/off control wire. It should only be on when the PCM determines that cooling is needed.
Does the A/C compressor clutch stay engaged all the time while the engine is running?

View attachment 58376

View attachment 58377
I don’t believe so, will check later today. But fan does come on when ignition is on position, even without motor running.
OK, so I hope this doesn't get to confusing but here it goes. I turned on the ignition and the fan came on, but at a very low speed. I then unplugged the fan and started in with a multi meter.
With the engine running and climate turned off I connected the red lead to the red terminal on plug and black lead to the Br/Vt terminal on plug and read 12.2 volts, then connected black lead to black terminal on plug and red lead to DBu/LBu terminal on plug and read 0 volts. I then turned on max A/C and ran through the same procedure with with the multi meter with the only difference reading 13.5 volts and 14 volts respectively. Seemed right to me so I plugged the fan back in, turned ignition to on position and no fan (good right), then I started the car and still no fan until I turned on max A/C and fan seemed to work fine. With the climate turned on but A/C and defrost off the A/C compressor clutch would kick on at times (so would the fan) so I may have an issue there, not sure the clutch should engage without A/C or defroster on, maybe low pressure? One other concern I have is I turned climate off and ran the car for a while and fan did not kick on until coolant temperature reached 228 degrees, seems high to me.
Still don't know why I had the original issue of fan running with just the ignition in on position and not ever going to high speed when max A/C was turned on (probably operator error not plugged in all the way or something like that) but I am glad it seems to be working fine now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, so I hope this doesn't get to confusing but here it goes. I turned on the ignition and the fan came on, but at a very low speed. I then unplugged the fan and started in with a multi meter.
With the engine running and climate turned off I connected the red lead to the red terminal on plug and black lead to the Br/Vt terminal on plug and read 12.2 volts, then connected black lead to black terminal on plug and red lead to DBu/LBu terminal on plug and read 0 volts. I then turned on max A/C and ran through the same procedure with with the multi meter with the only difference reading 13.5 volts and 14 volts respectively. Seemed right to me so I plugged the fan back in, turned ignition to on position and no fan (good right), then I started the car and still no fan until I turned on max A/C and fan seemed to work fine. With the climate turned on but A/C and defrost off the A/C compressor clutch would kick on at times (so would the fan) so I may have an issue there, not sure the clutch should engage without A/C or defroster on, maybe low pressure? One other concern I have is I turned climate off and ran the car for a while and fan did not kick on until coolant temperature reached 228 degrees, seems high to me.
Still don't know why I had the original issue of fan running with just the ignition in on position and not ever going to high speed when max A/C was turned on (probably operator error not plugged in all the way or something like that) but I am glad it seems to be working fine now.
OK, so I hope this doesn't get to confusing but here it goes. I turned on the ignition and the fan came on, but at a very low speed. I then unplugged the fan and started in with a multi meter.
With the engine running and climate turned off I connected the red lead to the red terminal on plug and black lead to the Br/Vt terminal on plug and read 12.2 volts, then connected black lead to black terminal on plug and red lead to DBu/LBu terminal on plug and read 0 volts. I then turned on max A/C and ran through the same procedure with with the multi meter with the only difference reading 13.5 volts and 14 volts respectively. Seemed right to me so I plugged the fan back in, turned ignition to on position and no fan (good right), then I started the car and still no fan until I turned on max A/C and fan seemed to work fine. With the climate turned on but A/C and defrost off the A/C compressor clutch would kick on at times (so would the fan) so I may have an issue there, not sure the clutch should engage without A/C or defroster on, maybe low pressure? One other concern I have is I turned climate off and ran the car for a while and fan did not kick on until coolant temperature reached 228 degrees, seems high to me.
Still don't know why I had the original issue of fan running with just the ignition in on position and not ever going to high speed when max A/C was turned on (probably operator error not plugged in all the way or something like that) but I am glad it seems to be working fine now.
Another thing I noticed is that it seems like the fan only has 1 speed (high)
 

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I believe the fan is a variable speed determined by the PCM sending a 'duty-cycle' signal to the fan module.
Because this is seemingly an 'intermittent' failure, check for loose or corroded connections.
A scan tool interrogation may find out why the fan goes to high speed.
The 'Fan enable' is an on/off through a relay. The 'Fan control' should softly ramp fan speeds up or down.
If the PCM can't see temperature information, it may default to high-speed for safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I believe the fan is a variable speed determined by the PCM sending a 'duty-cycle' signal to the fan module.
Because this is seemingly an 'intermittent' failure, check for loose or corroded connections.
A scan tool interrogation may find out why the fan goes to high speed.
The 'Fan enable' is an on/off through a relay. The 'Fan control' should softly ramp fan speeds up or down.
If the PCM can't see temperature information, it may default to high-speed for safety.
Ok, so I put another new fan in and it comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition. Check engine light is on so I took it to the auto parts store and they said there is an open circuit to the fan. I am thinking a stuck relay
 

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What was the actual 'P' code?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, so I put another new fan in and it comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition. Check engine light is on so I took it to the auto parts store and they said there is an open circuit to the fan. I am thinking a stuck relay
Also the new fan does go through different speeds.
What was the actual 'P' code?
It was a P code but I don’t recall the # but they did say it was the fan speed open circuit
 

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Has it had the PCM update to address P0480? See bottom image in post # 2.
These are the 'Possible Causes' of P0480. If the circuit is 'open', the fan may default to 'on' for protection.
Follow the wiring also shown in post # 2 and look for problems. Did this problem just occur spontaneously or did it happen after something was done? Do you know the history of this car?

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So with a cold engine I checked the terminals with a multi meter. With the red lead to the red terminal and black lead to the Br/vt terminal I read 13.7 volts. With the black lead to the black terminal and red lead to the Br/vt terminal I am reading 2.2 volts. Either way I am reading voltage to the fan. I’m not sure how I’m supposed to be checking power to the Br/vt wire.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Any 'ck eng' light on? Any fault codes?
 
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