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Discussion Starter #1
My 2016 200 Limited has been making a loud noise seemingly from the rear whenever I hit a larger bump. I'm thinking maybe the car hitting the bump stop like the shock is bad. I haven't noticed any wetness on either shock. Car doesn't overly bounce when I push up and down on the rear. Before I go ahead and replace the rear shocks is there anything else i should be looking at? Any one experience that kind of noise? Car has about 78K miles.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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I had to replace the rear sway bar links in my 2016. They were under the 3/36 warranty. The shocks and control arm joints were fine.
Definitely diagnose the noise source before just throwing shocks at it. It could be from a number of things, either loose or worn.
 

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It was a rattle or clatter over bumps. Not a heavy sound like thumping or clunking.
 

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My 2016 200 Limited has been making a loud noise seemingly from the rear whenever I hit a larger bump. I'm thinking maybe the car hitting the bump stop like the shock is bad. I haven't noticed any wetness on either shock. Car doesn't overly bounce when I push up and down on the rear. Before I go ahead and replace the rear shocks is there anything else i should be looking at? Any one experience that kind of noise? Car has about 78K miles.
I had this problem for years. Previous posts here if you search. In summary dealer replaced every component in the shock assembly before correcting it the first time. What finally did the trick was replacing the bump stops.

But it came back, most noticeably in cold weather. What I deduced, and have pretty much confirmed now, is that when the road surface is smooth the bump stop gradually rides down on the shaft, where after a time it can stick if there is inadequate lubrication. Then when you hit a big bump, and the shock needs to travel up it meets resistance from the stuck bumper, which then releases suddenly and shoots up the shaft slamming into the shock mount, making the loud knock.

The shaft and bump stop are supposed to be lubricated with Mopar zipper lube. (Actually is lube for zippers, like for Jeep Wrangler removable plastic windows.) I lubed the shafts on mine last year with a combination of Tri-Flow spray lube, and Super Lube synthetic grease, and I have not had a single incident of the knock.

So my theory is that the necessary lubricant is not always applied at the factory as it should be, which might explain why this problem seems to be relatively rare.

BTW In the early diagnosis of this noise by the dealer they also replaced the sway bar links, but that apparently was not the source of the noise in my case, even though worn sway bar link bushings can also make a similar noise in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So should I start by just taking the shocks off, removing the bump stop, and then lubricating the shaft?
 

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Diagnose first. Locate the noise source. Can you get the noise by jouncing the rear end? Open the trunk and have a helper sit on the back bumper to bounce the car while you look underneath for the noise. Sometimes you can confirm the source by placing your hand on the part to 'feel' the noise.
Grasp the cool exhaust pipe and move it around to be sure it is not interfering with an adjacent component.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can not replicate the noise by pushing up and down on the back end. Exhaust appears to be secure. It's definitely coming from the back.....sounds pretty much the same as a bad ball joint.
 

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So should I start by just taking the shocks off, removing the bump stop, and then lubricating the shaft?
That's one way but you need a special tool to remove the shock from the upper mount.

See this service bulletin which illustrates how to remove and replace the shock. You want to look at the UF section. The bump-stop is the colored ring at the top of the splash shield.

However, I was able to lubricate the shaft without removing the shock.

  • Jack up the car from the rear jack points in front of the rear wheels, so that the tire is off the ground and the shock fully extended.
  • Remove the tire / wheel assembly.
  • Pull down the splash shield/bump-stop assembly as far as you can, exposing most of the shock shaft.
  • Lubricate the shaft with light weight synthetic grease, like Super Lube.
  • Since part of the shaft is still hidden within the bump-stop/dust shield I also sprayed some Tri-Flow lube around the shaft at the bump stop to allow it to penetrate down to the remaining part of the shaft.
  • Move the splash shield / bump stop sub-assembly up and down to distribute the lubricant.
  • Replace wheel and tire.
  • Lower vehicle.
 
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Diagnose first. Locate the noise source. Can you get the noise by jouncing the rear end? Open the trunk and have a helper sit on the back bumper to bounce the car while you look underneath for the noise. Sometimes you can confirm the source by placing your hand on the part to 'feel' the noise.
That's normally good advice, but in my case, because of the intermittent nature of the noise, it was not applicable. I went to every extent possible to help the dealer service department duplicate the noise, (detailed in another post here) but it simply wouldn't happen consistently. Even though this noise was very loud and startling it would only occur intermittently.

Sometimes you have to examine how things work and theorize how they may go wrong, then experiment accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's one way but you need a special tool to remove the shock from the upper mount.
I have watched a couple YouTube videos where they just remove the two bolts holding the shock mount in place, remove the lower bolt, and pull the who;e shock out. They using a vice or vice grips they hold the extended shaft and remove the nut from the top of the shock.
 

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I have watched a couple YouTube videos where they just remove the two bolts holding the shock mount in place, remove the lower bolt, and pull the who;e shock out. They using a vice or vice grips they hold the extended shaft and remove the nut from the top of the shock.
OK. There's usually a work-around. :cool:

I've done something like that on a different vehicle removing traditional style shocks for replacement, where the small counter-hold at the top of the shaft didn't provide enough leverage to hold against the torque required to remove the mount nut.

A potential drawback, if reusing the shock, is that the vice grips will likely mar the shaft. Don't know that would cause a problem, but it might if it's severe enough to cause the splash shield and bump stop to stick. Also it would be considerably more time consuming than lubing them in place the way did which has worked so far.
 

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So you haven't had any noise since doing this?
No noises and highly
recommend to check out the rear sway bar links for any play. When I did the shock I also replaced those links too.Is been 3 weeks and no abnormal noises. I’ll have done this 3 yrs ago with out the zip ties and the noise was there . But not anymore after zip ties the bump stop shield to the top mount.
 

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I enlarged the picture to look....what exactly are the zip ties doing? I see one around what appears to be the shaft with another through the mount and the 1st tie. Is the 1st one through something on the backside that can not be seen in the photo?
 

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I enlarged the picture to look....what exactly are the zip ties doing? I see one around what appears to be the shaft with another through the mount and the 1st tie. Is the 1st one through something on the backside that can not be seen in the photo?
jracecrazy is using the zip ties to hold the splash shield / bump stop assembly up against the mount. That prevents the bump stop from sliding down the shock shaft, sticking there and later breaking loose after hitting a rough patch of road to slam up against the mount and make the "thump" noise.
 
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I also have this intermittent clunk sound from right rear. I reached in with tire still on, and was able to pull the bump stop down, but it did not go back up. Maybe this is a sign it needs to be lubricated? What makes it go back up i.e a spring or such? Not clear on that. Seems odd one would have to put zip ties to hold it up. Anyway, I will remove tire and follow Pennhavens directions to lube shock shaft w/o removal. Maybe should be done regularly perhaps when swapping winter tire w/ summer and vice versa.
 

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I also have this intermittent clunk sound from right rear. I reached in with tire still on, and was able to pull the bump stop down, but it did not go back up. Maybe this is a sign it needs to be lubricated? What makes it go back up i.e a spring or such? Not clear on that. Seems odd one would have to put zip ties to hold it up. Anyway, I will remove tire and follow Pennhaven's directions to lube shock shaft w/o removal. Maybe should be done regularly perhaps when swapping winter tire w/ summer and vice versa.
The bump stop and dust shield can slide down on their own due to gravity. They will only ride back up when the shock compresses and travels up the shaft, thus lifting the bump stop. Since the shock typically doesn't travel all the way up, a bump stop that gradually slides down and sits in one position long enough may eventually stick.

Since the shock only travels to the top of it's range of travel when you go over a significant high point in the road, like a speed bump, or if the tire goes down in a deep depression like a pot hole and then suddenly comes back up to normal road level, you're not likely to experience the sequence that causes the "thump" all that often. First the bump stop has to slide down and then it has to sit in position long enough to stick, and then you need to hit a bump that's large enough to push the shock up fast enough to break the bump stop loose and shoot it all the way up. (I'll add that when the car is fully loaded the shocks will compress more going over a bump. That's why I had the most "thumping" when I had rear seat passengers. Very annoying. :oops::mad:)

After seeing what jracecrazy did, I now think his solution is better than lubricating the shaft. That's because there really is no reason I can determine that the bump stop and dust shield need to slide down from the top-most position. So if they are kept locked at the top, they can never stick at a lower position to later slam upward when the shock is compressed fully.

I also think that jracecrazy is correct that the lubrication is more for ease of assembly than to prevent sticking, though from my experience it apparently can help there too.

I am now suspecting that those of us with this problem may even have bump stops that slide down too easily. Maybe most others actually stay stuck at the top-most position and that is why this appears to a fairly uncommon issue. That would explain why the dealers don't have enough experience to diagnose and fix the problem. This would also help explain why after my bump stops were replaced by the dealer there was no problem for many months. Possibly it took that long driving over smooth roads for the bump stop to slide down. However once it did, and a sticking-point was established, it began to happen regularly enough to be really annoying, but still was almost impossible to duplicate for the dealer since the bump stop didn't slide back down and stick again right away.

I hope that covers it!:)
 
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