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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just venting here as I know this is a common issue. I believe my oil cooler seals are leaking. I called Dodge and they quoted $800 for parts and labor. I may just do it myself to save some money.
Anyone else here run into this?

update: fixed the leak for about $50 for the new oil cooler and intake gaskets. Wasn’t that difficult.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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It may be more than just seals. The plastic cooler housing itself may need replacement:
 

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Sounds right. Just had mine done, new cooler assy OE and did the tstat and housing also cause its been leaking a little. $895.00 . I have a Car shield warranty and they covered $695 because they quote aftermarket parts. My mechanic took $150 cash and Im good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sucks I just changed my oil a couple days ago. I should’ve waited till I replace these seals. Oh well small price to pay considering I’m saving a grand by not going to the dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It may be more than just seals. The plastic cooler housing itself may need replacement:

actually I’m just ordering these seals. Rolling the dice but the cooler doesn’t looked cracked as far as I can tell.

My theory is the dealerships place blame on customers and say someone cracked the housing by over tightening the filter cap. When in reality it’s their pos seals that are failing.

FEL-PRO​
ES73012Oil Cooler Gasket
$ 28.79​
$ 0.00​
1​
$ 28.79​
FEL-PRO​
MS97204Intake Manifold Gasket
$ 24.79​
$ 0.00​
1​
$ 24.79​
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Overtightening was what was originally thought, but that notion has been debunked. There was an issue, possibly with a vendor/supplier quality mishap.
If you do use Fel-Pro, make sure they refer to the parts as OEM. FWIW, I have been disappointed in Fel-Pro gasket quality lately. Not as good as factory parts. You generally get what you pay for.
This is the 3-page informational thread on the oil leak that I was looking for:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info. These gaskets say they meet or exceed OEM standards so hopefully they are good. What have you noticed in regards to them not being as good? Is it the fitment or the material?

I was hesitant to use OEM as those are the ones that are known to fail since this is such a common problem. Unless they redesigned them since being manufactured. I’ve heard of some “orange” OEM gaskets that are better than the black but couldn’t find those. We’ll see. Time will tell.
Thanks
 

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My cooler was cracked. My mechanic is a friend and legit and hes done alot of these. You may get lucky and its just the seals. Good luck
 

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actually I’m just ordering these seals. Rolling the dice but the cooler doesn’t looked cracked as far as I can tell.

My theory is the dealerships place blame on customers and say someone cracked the housing by over tightening the filter cap. When in reality it’s their pos seals that are failing.

FEL-PRO​
ES73012Oil Cooler Gasket
$ 28.79​
$ 0.00​
1​
$ 28.79​
FEL-PRO​
MS97204Intake Manifold Gasket
$ 24.79​
$ 0.00​
1​
$ 24.79​
 

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If I may interject. If the gaskets seem to be subpar, one way to improve on them sealing is to get some Permatex Copper Spray. This stuff is excellent. Spray both sides, allow cure, install gaskets, no leaks! I used this stuff on a small engine head gasket and it is still going strong after two years. Not expensive either.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks for the recommendation. The repair doesn’t look that difficult just a lot of steps and things to remove in order to access the cooler. Planning on tackling it this weekend.

These replacement seals look good from what I can tell. The OEM ones are garbage. I’m sure they’ll be flat as a pancake when I get them out. IMO GE should do courtesy repairs on these since it’s such a common issue. But on the other hand they are making money on the repairs. Business is business and its not a safety hazard. This started at 35-40k miles btw.
 

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Just venting here as I know this is a common issue. I believe my oil cooler seals are leaking. I called Dodge and they quoted $800 for parts and labor. I may just do it myself to save some money.
Anyone else here run into this?
What’s the mileage on the car? If under 100K the dealership should pay for it. It is the entire housing that needs to be replaced. I just did mine. So basically the seals get warped after about 70k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The car has 50k. Started leaking around 38k and progressively got worse. It’s outside of the 5 year warranty (2015). If I would’ve brought it to them when I started to smell/see the first hint of oil I could’ve had them fix it.

Also has a major exhaust leak on the passenger side front pipe. That part alone is $400 so I’m going to have to see if a muffler shop can just weld a new piece on it. It where the flex part is.
Hopefully these problems don’t keep popping up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just found a 2015 200S with less than 17,000 miles, pampered. Love the response but I can imagine how nice a SC would feel under foot!
I’d be happy to get my oil leak, exhaust leak, bent rim, and possible wheel bearing fixed at this point lol. I think maybe the bent rim wore out a bearing but I’ll start by replacing the rim. See if the drone noise goes away. But a SC sure would be nice.
 

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I had a lot of issues with the cooling system of my 200s in the last 5 months but none with the oil system yet ..( knock on Woods)..what my car does tho is the remote turns off by it self right after i start it from inside the house..i Google this problem and the response was to take the ground cable of the battery off , take the gas cap off and put it in again , hook the ground cable on again and it works... but only for 2 o 3 days , then i have to repeat the deal again...the dealer wants 140 bucks to tell me what the problem is but...im scared is gonna be something major and i just dont have the money so...WTF it runs !!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had a lot of issues with the cooling system of my 200s in the last 5 months but none with the oil system yet ..( knock on Woods)..what my car does tho is the remote turns off by it self right after i start it from inside the house..i Google this problem and the response was to take the ground cable of the battery off , take the gas cap off and put it in again , hook the ground cable on again and it works... but only for 2 o 3 days , then i have to repeat the deal again...the dealer wants 140 bucks to tell me what the problem is but...im scared is gonna be something major and i just dont have the money so...WTF it runs !!
yeah keeping it running and inspected is step one. My car shuts off after maybe 10 minutes after remote start. I believe that to be a safety feature in case someone accidentally starts it in their closed garage.
 
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