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video I took showing what my vehicle is doing:

Pretty sure my car is possessed. 2014 4 door touring 2.4L. Seems to be at random. Lights flash, sometimes it’s traction control light, ABS light, throttle control, or all three. Gauges flick up and down, it dings at me. When it first started it would stop after a while and nothing came of it, then it started to stall but I would just put it in park, take key out, then start it up again no problem. Now it stalls and goes completely dark, no response to the key turning in ignition, sometimes for ten minutes and sometimes for hours. I’m this state, not even a boost will turn the car on.

I checked the battery, fuse box, alternator, and wires and found nothing wrong there. No codes come up with code scanner, and I’m at a loss.

One person is saying it’s anti theft and I need to use my other key fob, another says it’s battery, someone else says I need a new computer. Anyone else have a similar issue and know how to fix it?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Personally I'd start at the battery. The idea would be to eliminate the battery as the source of the trouble. Either charge it up with a charger, or try jumping from a good battery when the problem occurs, or replace the battery with new. If the problem still happens with a known good battery I'd suspect the TIPM (totally integrate power module). The TIPM could be expensive.
 

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I just bought the battery brand new not even a year ago. I checked it, the battery is completely fine. Is there a way to test the TIPM?
 

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I just bought the battery brand new not even a year ago. I checked it, the battery is completely fine. Is there a way to test the TIPM?
Because a battery is new, or one year old, doesn't matter. Any item could have a premature failure. The battery may intermittently be internally shorting out.
Check the battery with a load test.
Any good mechanic will rule out the obvious and easy items first.
 

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I’ve already checked the battery and it’s completely fine though. It’s not the battery.
 

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Was the battery LOAD TESTED? If yes then something else is going on. Checking volts w a voltmeter is not a load test.
 
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What a pain, sorry that's happening to you.

It really sounds like you have a bad ground or a wire that is making intermittent connection etc... I bet/hope it's something simple causing the problem and I can see why people think it could be the battery because something isn't getting the correct voltage etc... it's good you eliminated that as the problem by testing the battery and trying to jump start it when it wouldn't turn over etc...

A refurbished PCM is about $150 US - so is a TIPM, just did a quick web search and found both with warranty for that price range. I would have it checked out or spend some time with an multi-meter and a wire schematic before I would replace anything.

Do you have the OEM radio? Did you buy it new? Sometimes some eager DIY people can do serious damage just installing an aftermarket radio. You should see the mess I just bought and fixed cause some idiot previous owner of my old S10 had a field day hacking up the wiring.

I wish you well and hope you get it resolved soon, sorry I can't be of much help.
 
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Try checking the plug/connector at the pcm and the connection under the fuse box. Good luck.
 

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How did you check the alternator?
This same failure happened to me a few months ago with my 2011 and its original battery. After I replaced the battery (which did test bad), the alternator was also bad, charging voltage was 12V. Replaced the alternator and all was well.
 

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video I took showing what my vehicle is doing:

Pretty sure my car is possessed. 2014 4 door touring 2.4L. Seems to be at random. Lights flash, sometimes it’s traction control light, ABS light, throttle control, or all three. Gauges flick up and down, it dings at me. When it first started it would stop after a while and nothing came of it, then it started to stall but I would just put it in park, take key out, then start it up again no problem. Now it stalls and goes completely dark, no response to the key turning in ignition, sometimes for ten minutes and sometimes for hours. I’m this state, not even a boost will turn the car on.

I checked the battery, fuse box, alternator, and wires and found nothing wrong there. No codes come up with code scanner, and I’m at a loss.

One person is saying it’s anti theft and I need to use my other key fob, another says it’s battery, someone else says I need a new computer. Anyone else have a similar issue and know how to fix it?

Thanks in advance.
Your 2014 is possessed and my 2014 Limited hardtop droptop is schizophrenic. The backup camera quit working a couple of months ago until I took a long trip when the ABS - traction control dummy light came on and then my backup camera started working again. Then next time I drove it, the ABS light was off and the backup camera was still working...until the next time, when the ABS light was still off, but the backup camera wasn't working anymore. If there's one thing you CAN depend on with a Chrysler is that you CANNOT depend on it. From what I hear, Fiat has made them even LESS dependable.
 

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video I took showing what my vehicle is doing:

Pretty sure my car is possessed. 2014 4 door touring 2.4L. Seems to be at random. Lights flash, sometimes it’s traction control light, ABS light, throttle control, or all three. Gauges flick up and down, it dings at me. When it first started it would stop after a while and nothing came of it, then it started to stall but I would just put it in park, take key out, then start it up again no problem. Now it stalls and goes completely dark, no response to the key turning in ignition, sometimes for ten minutes and sometimes for hours. I’m this state, not even a boost will turn the car on.

I checked the battery, fuse box, alternator, and wires and found nothing wrong there. No codes come up with code scanner, and I’m at a loss.

One person is saying it’s anti theft and I need to use my other key fob, another says it’s battery, someone else says I need a new computer. Anyone else have a similar issue and know how to fix it?

Thanks in advance.
My car is doing the exact same thing to a T did you figure out what it was?
 

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The original battery in the 200's was a very poor one... It has caused all kinds of intermittent electronic problems that one would not logically think that would come from a bad battery... It may run the car one minute and the next the car can be totally dead or have strange problems... Computer controlled systems do not like poorly regulated power (voltage changes) and one or more option(s) can change with just one corrupted "bit" (0 or 1 bit stored in memory)... If you haven't replaced the OEM battery do so even "if" it seams to be OK as it WILL leave you stranded some time in the future... I have read here of some very strange problems solved with just a replacement battery...
Dave
 

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And yet...I just replaced the original battery in my 2011 this summer. My wife's 2012 still had the original battery, I replaced it proactively.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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The symptoms would match what would happen if the CAN bus went down or partially down. This is the communications network that is used between the controller modules (including the instrument cluster) to pass vehicle information around.
Usually a failure is from a poor or corroded connection. It can be intermittent. You want to diagnose this while it is acting up, otherwise everything will test fine. If it is affected by humidity, look for terminal corrosion that can become 'conductive'.
Any aftermarket accessories added to the car?

 

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video I took showing what my vehicle is doing:

Pretty sure my car is possessed. 2014 4 door touring 2.4L. Seems to be at random. Lights flash, sometimes it’s traction control light, ABS light, throttle control, or all three. Gauges flick up and down, it dings at me. When it first started it would stop after a while and nothing came of it, then it started to stall but I would just put it in park, take key out, then start it up again no problem. Now it stalls and goes completely dark, no response to the key turning in ignition, sometimes for ten minutes and sometimes for hours. I’m this state, not even a boost will turn the car on.

I checked the battery, fuse box, alternator, and wires and found nothing wrong there. No codes come up with code scanner, and I’m at a loss.

One person is saying it’s anti theft and I need to use my other key fob, another says it’s battery, someone else says I need a new computer. Anyone else have a similar issue and know how to fix it?

Thanks in advance.
What fixed it coz mine does the does the same?
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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It would be expected that if the speed signal was lost or changed too fast to be real, that the Electronic Stability Program/Traction control/ABS warning lights would light and a fault code would be stored in the ABS module memory.
The electronic throttle control is controlled by the PCM. It is also tied in with the ESP which resides in the ABS module. The ESP needs to control the throttle opening during a skid event is why.
I would venture that fault codes are stored in the ABS module waiting to be read. A standard OBDII code reader may not be able to read these codes and use of a more advanced scan tool may be necessary.
 

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2015 Chrysler 200 S, 2.4L FWD
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okay, 2015 200 S 2.4L, 83,XXX. i recently started having trouble where the power steering would cut out and turn back on while i was driving, sometimes depending on the drive my whole dash would lose power the needles even got stuck in place, all the lights went out. it also triggered the dashlight for the TCM being engaged.
took it into dealer and they said its the power steering module. $2175 part and 6 hours labor (thank you extended warranty). when i asked about traction control light they said the one should fix the other. ever since this started happening my car has very slow starts, like it rolls over a few times or its very dragged out, there's a short somewhere i believe since the power steering is all electrical the short is in the module itself thus draining the battery when not in use. I don't have my paperwork but i believe all the fault codes came up under the ABS. it is being worked on today i will be able to let you guys know if it fixes it completely.
I'm running 2 HCCA12's on a BAMF8000 so i will know pretty soon
yes i upgraded wires, triple checked grounds and removal of paint, and installed hi output alt.
Now if anyone knows if the trans and engine block share a ground or not and if they can post a pic of the engine blocks ground, that would probably be the last step i needed...

i hope this helps someone out there
 
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