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· Banned
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2011 200 V6 Limited, with 75,000 miles on it.
What should I be looking out for?

As of now, I do not hear the ticking for the bad bank2 head issue.

Was kind of backed into a corner, this was the only car in my price range
in the area.

· Administrator
2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
3,087 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Only a very small percentage of Pentastars had the head issue.
If it was going to happen, I'm sure that it would have happened by now. Do you know any of the cars past service history?
I can look up the dealership past service history, recalls & build sheet with the last 8 of the VIN.

If I were to get a 12 year-old used car, the first thing I'd do is to change all the fluids & filters. As with any used car, do a thorough inspection front to rear. Any strange odors, sounds or vibrations? Everything works? Drives nice?

Make sure that the engine oil fill conforms to Chrysler MS-6395.
Use only ATF+4 meeting Chrysler MS-9602. Drop the pan & replace the filter. Clean the pan bottom & chip magnet. Some silt is normal. Pay attention to chunks or 'milk' in the oil.

Coolant should be a HOAT meeting Chrysler MS-9769 mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Heater cores can plug with corrosion. A forced back-flush may clear any debris.
Power steering fluid is ATF+4. Bleed all 4 brakes until fluid runs clear.

Even tire wear? I had a 4 wheel alignment done and was surprised by how far it was out. I want my tires to last as long as possible.
You can usually tell if a car was loved & cared for.

· Banned
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yeah, Mopar isn't my first rodeo. I had a 2000 Avenger ES, then a 2007 Charger, then a 2006 Jeep Liberty. I also work in a shop 2-days a week. I managed to get 307,000 miles out of my 2010 Camaro V6 before I sold it, still running strong. I know how to make car last a long time. I got it from a dealer, with all new brakes and rotors, fluid changes. They wanted too much for it, but I was backed into a corner, and I had to get it. Paid $9388 for it. Loan company would only do 8400, including tax & tile fees, so I needed to come up with another $2000 to cover that. I also get GAP with all my cars, this is my 8th car in 9 years; DEER.

2011 is the first year for the Pentastar. I tend to stay away from V1 stuff, but, I needed a car for work.

I just need to add the car to my carfax account to get the records, but I sure would like the build sheet!


· Banned
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
CarFax shows one open recall; Recall: #S61 OCCUPANT RESTRAINT CONTROLLER
Steady service records to 05/19/2014 with 23,177 miles.
All the 7 records after are sporadic, and no miles in them.
So, it got 52k miles added between then and now @ 75,145
Underneath is clean.
I was hoping to avoid a rear multilink suspension, my Camaro $50'd & $100'd me to death there.

Services Performed
  • Vehicle serviced
  • Pre-delivery inspection completed
  • Brakes checked
  • Light bulb(s) replaced
  • Rear brake pads replaced
  • Rear brake rotor(s) replaced
  • Front brake rotor(s) replaced
  • Brake caliper(s) replaced
  • Emissions inspection performed

· Banned
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will need to check the oil filter housing issue before I drive it off the lot...

RE coolant:
People are not aware that distilled water is only purified water. It was purified by the process of distillation or even evaporation and then the condensation. This type of water will be removed from any impurities. However, the mineral ions will still be on them. On the other hand, deionized water is a type of water that is left after all the mineral ions are removed. With this fact, deionized water will cause a lesser chance to cause corrosion rather than distilled water. So the deionized water is what most people use as a base in coolants in their custom loops.

While distilled water purity prevents deposit formation, it, unfortunately, comes with damaging side effects. When water is distilled and stripped of its minerals and impurities, the result is that water is chemically imbalanced. The water will seek to re-balance itself by stripping electrons from the metals of your cooling system.

Although distilled water can be safer than using tap water, it can also rust and corrode from water or minerals. As we know, tap water contains many different compounds such as limestone (CaCO3), metals, minerals… These substances, when exposed to high temperatures, will cause deposits to build up in the reservoir in the long term, which can cause scale, making a car radiator poorly effective.

I just buy the 50/50 premix jugs, and have been since they were on the shelves.
I will run T6 or DELO400 5W40 in the car, like I did with the V6 Camaro, and it had 307,050 when I sold it last week.
I ran DELO 15W40 in the Summer; these are diesel engine oils, NO issues what so ever.

I run 400+ miles a day, 3-days a week, for 1200+ miles a week.
I change the oil every 7-8 weeks, so I buy filters in bulk.

Will tune it for MPG. I have an I3, so I contacted Diablosport, they assured me it will work with the car, so I will buy another incense.

· Administrator
2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
3,087 Posts
Be careful with the heavier viscosities. The VVT (variable valve timing) uses the thinner engine oil for quick hydraulic reaction times. The heavier engine oil may cause a lag in valve timing changes, affect performance & set fault codes.
Really there is nothing to be gained with a heavier viscosity.

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· Banned
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
My Camaro V6 was also VVT, and has four VVT Solenoids. I know how
it all works, do not think I don't. You can't sit there and tell me it will
set fault codes, because you are not here. You are wrong, because
I do it, and I don't get fault codes.

Please do not treat me like a novice, I know exactly what I am doing.
I have not had an engine fail on me since I bought my first car.
I work in a shop two days a week. What I do, works for me, or
it is the will of gods, whatever, I never have problems. Every
single car I have owned has had well over 150,000 miles on them
at the time of sale or when totaled (deer hits). This car will be
my ninth car in 9 years, lasting the longest of the prior eight. None
of which had to do with mechanical; failures, all animal impacts.

I had a 2013 Jetta TDI, and followed NONE of their certifications, and
the car had 243,000 miles on it when VW bought it back, in full working
order. I did not use VW 507.00 spec oil since day one. I used Castrol,
Rotella T6, or Delo400. DPF never clogged, NOx cat never clogged,
all was fine. Original timing belt, serpentine belt, not even a wheel
bearing. Just oil, filters, brakes and rotors.

I have had four other VW Jettas since then, and I bought whatever 5W40
was on sale at WALMART. I did not buy EURO oil, nor any 502.00
certified oils for them. I did not buy any any special oil filters, EVER.
Whatever I could find in bulk on eBay, where I was paying $2.50 a piece
for 12.

It's a well known fact that oil carrying certifications is a way to keep you
paying high prices for their recommended oil. Oil companies have to
PAY Chevy, Ford, and whoever else to put their certification's on it, and they
are getting sick and tired of that too. Castrol and other companies have
said this has driven up motor oil prices, because they have to pay the
carmaker for the certification. Yet, the oil was the same as it was before
the certification, their formulation has not changed just to satisfy GM or
any other carmaker. You cannot tell me what is IN the oil that makes
it certified for my car, and not someone else's car. The days of flat
tapped cams is over, and even then, the oil was the same, they just
put more ZDDP in it. I welcome ZDDP, which is why I use diesel motor

I will use whatever oil I see fit for the season. They can tell people
all they want with OIL certification's, but neither you, nor among else
can break down the oil by ingredient and tell me what is in there
that is different from any other oil on the market. I do not care, and
I do not pay attention to ANY certifications.

Until I see a chemical list, and a break down of molecules for a GM oil
-vs- a FORD certified oil, I won't care. It's all a lie to keep you buying
their oils, so you won't go buy some cheap motor oil that works just
as well, exposing their lies. I use SuperTECH oil when it's on sale at
Walmart, it's their brand. Any car I have sold, is still on the road
today... So, like I said, it's either a lie, or I have the power of the gods
backing me, because I use whatever is on sale, don't care...

· Banned
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I am curious as to why you are here asking for assistance if you 'know it all' or as you say 'the power of the gods backing me'.
I did not ask for assistance for any maintenance. I asked, what should I be looking
out for, buying one of these. So, go back to my first post, and show me where I
asked for ANY assistance with oil, coolant, trans fluid. Mr. Admin volunteered
all that information, none of what I asked for. SO, I will await your word for word
quotes of me asking for assistance.

As far as, power of the gods, there is no such thing, and look up the word SARCASM.
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