Chrysler 200 Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys

It's hard to start the car. It may take couple tries

Once I start the car and drive it. The car won't let me go over 2,000 RPM - 2,500 RPM

It's hard to explain. It's like the car is going over the limp mode. It feels like the car will stall at any second. But it won't stall

I press the gas hard the RPM won't go up , and there is no acceleration . The car is actually deaccelerating.


Do you think the spark plugs has anything to do with this...

I have heard that spark plugs go bad prematurely at 50-60K miles not 100K as Owner Manuel's recommendation. I have heard it from many chrysler 200 owners in this site. Is this the case or something else could be causing the problem ??

2016 Chrysler 300 3.6L
Milage 49,500 miles "80K KM"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
I have read here that the original plugs in the 3.6L engine do fail around your mileage... I have a 2.4L 4cyl and pulled/replaced the OEMs at 43k and they really didn't look that bad... If you do replace the plugs DON'T use special/high priced ones like the Bosch plugs... You need just some good regular Platinum Plus ones... Another common problem is the coil packs going bad... You need an OBDII scanner/reader to read the stored codes to find which plugs/ or coil packs are bad... Then come back here with the list of codes and post them here.... The usual auto parts stores (O'Reillys/AutoZone/Advance) can read the codes for free BUT do not buy parts UNTIL you post the results here...They are in the business of selling needless parts and have no clue as to what is wrong with the car...They just read the codes and spit out what their list of possible causes...
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I have read here that the original plugs in the 3.6L engine do fail around your mileage... I have a 2.4L 4cyl and pulled/replaced the OEMs at 43k and they really didn't look that bad... If you do replace the plugs DON'T use special/high priced ones like the Bosch plugs... You need just some good regular Platinum Plus ones... Another common problem is the coil packs going bad... You need an OBDII scanner/reader to read the stored codes to find which plugs/ or coil packs are bad... Then come back here with the list of codes and post them here.... The usual auto parts stores (O'Reillys/AutoZone/Advance) can read the codes for free BUT do not buy parts UNTIL you post the results here...They are in the business of selling needless parts and have no clue as to what is wrong with the car...They just read the codes and spit out what their list of possible causes...
Dave
Thanks man for the comment I appreciate it.

Camshaft Position Sensor is more likely the problem...get the codes read.
Thanks for the comment.

But can you elaborate ? please

Have you had this problem before in your chrysler 200 ??

Which year is your chrysler 200 and how many miles have you put on it before it has occured to you ??
Do you know if it's covered under powertrain warranty ?


There is no engine MIL check engine sign
Only when I put the car on run mode "turned off" , but when I turn it on , the MIL engine sign is gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Based on your other thread I think the car is indeed in limp mode.


I think you mean Smoke coming out of vents. Was I correct ?

It happened to me when I accelerate hard while the AC is working. This could be the cause of the smoke. The atmosphere was humid at that time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Update


There was something that was blocking the Engine Air filter. around 15% of air that was supposed to go through the air filter was blocked by plastic wrap the one that comes in a perfume package or any other product , The plastic wrap was stuck to the Air filter !!

Do you think small air getting blocked could do something like this ?? Losing power and the car is not accelerating.

Now, I cleaned the Air Box and changed the Engine Air Filter. the car is not deaccelerating anymore. the car is now responsive. However the car is shaking while it is idle. it has been like this over 6 months. Dealership said there was nothing wrong.

However , since last week the car would be hard to crank. But it will start always. It only takes longer. When I press the ignition and brakes , It makes the cranking sound gsh, then become silent and pause for a second then make the cranking sound and the vehicle will start.

Three days ago till today , the car won't start until couple tries.

when the car is turned on. while I close the windows. I keep pushing and pressing the buttons over and over again even though the windows are closrd. I see the cabin light drops and become very week and the Battery voltage drops significantly from 14V to 13 and sometimes to 12.5V …

I can't remote start the car.



It could be the battery. Can't hold the charge ??

Can some one put their car on accessory mode, and check the voltage of the battery before they start the car and tell me what it should be at.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
YOU MUST LOAD TEST THE BATTERY. CHECKING VOLTS ISNT ENOUGH. YOU CAN HAVE 12 VOLTS AND THE BATTERY STILL BE NG. THE BLOCKAGE IN THE AIRBOX WOULD CUT POWER. LESS AIR, LESS POWER.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
my battery voltage is at 9.8-10V while the car is off for 24Hr
can somebody check and tell me what is his ??
put the car to the run mode. don't press the brake so the car won't turn on, You can scroll to Vehicle Info > Battery

brake pedal gets very hard to press if the car won't turn the first time , does it mean the battery is the only cause for it ?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
If it's the O.E. battery, defitnitly change it. Plus everything your saying sounds like the battery is poop. The key fob batteries should be changed if they're original also. They can cause starting problems sometimes as mentioned in many posts in the forum.
First change that car battery and then get the codes read too figure out your rough running condition. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
If it's the O.E. battery, defitnitly change it. Plus everything your saying sounds like the battery is poop. The key fob batteries should be changed if they're original also. They can cause starting problems sometimes as mentioned in many posts in the forum.
First change that car battery and then get the codes read too figure out your rough running condition. Good luck!
It was the battery. I replaced it and I no longer have the problem. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Thanks for posting your resolve! Now this thread can be useful too others. A lot of times people join the forum just too get advice on a prob and you never from them again. Glad it was just the battery...how's it running?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Sure. It's good now.

Some info that May help others identify what the problem is

Battery Faulty Signs , since I have had replaced 2 batteries

the first one wouldn't start , I opened the Truck and the battery was cracked and was slightly open , I tried jumping start but it won't work , so I had to tow it to the dealer. maybe because I live in high temperature country.

The second one was different

Both times the battery didn't last more than 12-13 Months.


Signs your battery is about to die at any moment

1- Keyless Remote Auto start wouldn't turn on the car. (Try using the second) if it didn't work , its probably the Car battery. It's also giving you a sign you battery is weak and the next couple of days you won't be able to start the car. It's necessary to eliminate the possibility your Keyless Remote battery is the reason for that by checking the second one.
2- If your car battery is weak, once you start the car and turn on the AC , you will notice that it returns to default setting !! (Change the battery as soon as you can)
3- once you start the car it ignition and crank but it won't start. then you try again and it starts after a pause !! (Change the battery as soon as you can)


Signs your battery is Completely Dead !!

1- You hear the car ignitions Click sound at 00:43 in the video , The car won't crank and won't start.
3- You see Park Brake Dashboard Yellow signs >>> See 1:37 in the video , after you press the ignition key. The first time you won't be able to see it. but the second or the third time you are trying to start the car you will see it (Clear sign it's the battery) !!
4- Brake gets hard , after you try to push on start and your foot at brake . (Clear sign its the battery)
5- Engine Oil reset at 100% !! (Clear sign your battery is dead).
6- Screen gets fuzzy sometimes.
7- The windows will close at slower base.
8- If you release Parking brake , then you turn it on , It would blink.
9- If you jump start the battery, and the car starts. It also means the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have read here that the original plugs in the 3.6L engine do fail around your mileage... I have a 2.4L 4cyl and pulled/replaced the OEMs at 43k and they really didn't look that bad... If you do replace the plugs DON'T use special/high priced ones like the Bosch plugs... You need just some good regular Platinum Plus ones... Another common problem is the coil packs going bad... You need an OBDII scanner/reader to read the stored codes to find which plugs/ or coil packs are bad... Then come back here with the list of codes and post them here.... The usual auto parts stores (O'Reillys/AutoZone/Advance) can read the codes for free BUT do not buy parts UNTIL you post the results here...They are in the business of selling needless parts and have no clue as to what is wrong with the car...They just read the codes and spit out what their list of possible causes...
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey guys

It's hard to start the car. It may take couple tries

Once I start the car and drive it. The car won't let me go over 2,000 RPM - 2,500 RPM

It's hard to explain. It's like the car is going over the limp mode. It feels like the car will stall at any second. But it won't stall

I press the gas hard the RPM won't go up , and there is no acceleration . The car is actually deaccelerating.


Do you think the spark plugs has anything to do with this...

I have heard that spark plugs go bad prematurely at 50-60K miles not 100K as Owner Manuel's recommendation. I have heard it from many chrysler 200 owners in this site. Is this the case or something else could be causing the problem ??

2016 Chrysler 300 3.6L
Milage 49,500 miles "80K KM"
Sound like a clogged converter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Sound like a clogged converter.
Well, I think it was duo to battery or restriction / blockage of sufficant air coming in to the engine through the filter because of plastic wrap stuck to the air filter like explained earlier. Problem were solved thankfully.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top