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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I had an engine light and P301 code that led me to believe I have an ignition coil failure on cylinder 1. Since the car has 70k miles I also wanted to replace the spark plugs.
The issue is that i cannot remove the intake manifold, there are 3 brackes (2 in front 1 rear) that prevent to remove the manifold. I cannot acess the front bank without removing the manifold.
Has anyone face this issue?
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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The upper manifold has to come off. It isn't a difficult job and with a long spark plug service life, it doesn't have to be done often.
The bolts thread into plastic, so don't over-tighten.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the reply and support pictures. The issue I am facing is that i cannot remove this stud because the wiring harness hits a component and the stud does not untread more.
I will try again later today, but this has been the most dificult spark plug replacement I have ever done.
Thanks again
 

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A forked trim tool should pop the harness retainers off the bracket & stud. You may not have to remove the bracket all the way, just the fasteners that hold it to the upper manifold. You may be able to tip the bracket away enough to tip the manifold out of the way enough to remove the coils & plugs underneath it.
 
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That stud is the most difficult to deal with while doing this. I've done it about half a dozen times already so I kind of have a method figured out. I know what component you're talking about that's in the way, but if you pull enough and at an angle you can get that harness off the end of the stud without causing damage, then use a small wrench to thread it out.
 

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In this video at about the 10:40 mark they begin to work on this stud. He just pulls the harness off the stud.

 

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Does anything look different on the #1 plug compared to the others?
 

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I do not know yet, the spark plug socket o have is too long for the cilinders close to firewall.
Tomorrow will get a shorter socket.
Thanks
If you use an extension with your shorter socket, be sure to tape the socket to the extension. Otherwise, when you pull out the extension, the socket, if it grips the installed plug too tightly, may be left in place with no way to retrieve unless you have a powerful enough magnet that will fit down the tube.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well replaced all spark plugs and cool on cylinder 1 but still same fault code.
It seems on Chrysler P301 can be misfire on cylinder 1,2, 3 and 4.
I guess I will have to change all the coils.
86k miles this how these gaps look.
 

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P0301 can only be the #1 cylinder (passenger-side, rear bank) A P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) may include other cylinders.
Guessing at problems by changing parts will get expensive & frustrating.

If you truly suspect a coil issue, swap the #1 coil with the #3 coil(?) & see if P0301 changes into P0303.
Always diagnose first. See the Possible Causes below.
A failed #1 fuel injector may or may not set a P0201.
Any engine (valvetrain) noise?
A leaky valve (engine mechanical) may best be found with a cylinder leak-down test instead of a compression test.

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
P0301 can only be the #1 cylinder (passenger-side, rear bank) A P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) may include other cylinders.
Guessing at problems by changing parts will get expensive & frustrating.

If you truly suspect a coil issue, swap the #1 coil with the #3 coil(?) & see if P0301 changes into P0303.
Always diagnose first. See the Possible Causes below.
A failed #1 fuel injector may or may not set a P0201.
Any engine (valvetrain) noise?
A leaky valve (engine mechanical) may best be found with a cylinder leak-down test instead of a compression test.

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Thanks for the information, well I just ordered 5 more ignition coils since the OBD program stated P301 could be several cylinders on Chrysler vehicles.
I also understood that P301 was misfire on cylinder 1.
Now I will wait and replace all coils (it's too much to disassemble all again and keep trying).
Actually at idle for a few months there has been a rating noise from the hood, never país much atention to it.
If not it could another issue and will need to service it.
Thanks again for all the inputs.
 

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A blinking check engine light indicates a misfire condition that is likely allowing raw fuel into the catalytic converter. This generates extra heat in the converter resulting in converter damage and possibly fire.
A significant miss also puts the motor out of balance. Engines are generally tuned so the force of one cylinder offsets or cancels the force of another. Without that balance you could crack some serious and expensive parts.
Even tho the book says 100k miles for plugs, 80k is still a lot of miles out of anything Chrysler builds that requires maintenance. Start with the plugs as soon as you can. Personally I would try to get them done tonight, or at least one side and how you clear up your trouble and then tackle the other side tomorrow.
Don’t be surprised if it isn’t more than the plugs. I would guess you are looking at a coil pack too or possibly and injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes the car is shaking at idle, I have no been driving it for the psast week.
I have replaced all spark plugs, and cylinder 1 ignition coil. Will replace the others later.
Shall I replace cilinder 1 injector aswell?

Thanks
 

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Changing parts until you find the problem is not the right way to fix this.
Do some diagnosis first. The #1 misfire may or may not be a fuel or ignition issue.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Changing parts until you find the problem is not the right way to fix this.
Do some diagnosis first. The #1 misfire may or may not be a fuel or ignition issue.
Yes you are correct, the only diagnosis I did was the check the error code.
I don't know what else to do, the only option left is to take it to the mechanic.
Thanks dor the advices.
 

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PCV valve? It's a fairly inexpensive part, should be replaced regularly, and can cause shaking at idle and even misfires.
 

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Yeah in a severe case, a PCV may cause a lean or rich mixture condition. I'm sure that there would be other symptoms & why would it repeatedly set a P0301 code?
Sometimes when you don't have the special tools needed, it is worth the shop's 'diagnostic fee' to have a technician find the problem, draw up an estimate & contact you for authorization for the repair.

The car has to be fixed. If the diagnosis sounds like something you can do, stop there and just pay the diagnostic fee.
If it sounds like something that you don't want to get into, have the technician complete the repairs. Save the old parts to learn from if you like.
Misfires can overheat & damage expensive catalytic converters. They certainly don't do the engine oil, performance, fuel economy, drivetrain or the pleasure of driving any favors.

I hope that the problem turns into nothing major & I believe that the OP has already effectively ruled-out the secondary ignition as the problem.

A misfire is caused by either an ignition, fuel or an engine mechanical (valves/timing?) issue.
Something appears to be happening (or not happening) in the #1 cylinder.
See the 'Possible Causes' in post #12.
 
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I had a similar issue with a cylinder #3 misfire. After swapping the spark plug and coil, the issue did not move. I pulled the oil filter and found metal shavings. I am guessing from a cam follower or cam lobe. I had to replace the 200 in less than two months for work, so I traded it in and never found out the cause. Since the oil filter is right there, you may want to pull it and take a look. If you see metal, removing the valve cover would be my next step.
 
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