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Should there be a recall for bad oil pressure switch

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a 2016 200 s limited with the V6 , three days after my purchase the check engine light has illuminated , engine temperature heating message ,while simultaneously leaking oil .
Diagnostics showed error code P0520 bad oil pressure switch It was sent to supposedly have it repaired. .. 9 days after that repair the car failed to start, and back to the shop she went .. two weeks later I picked my car up from the shop and an hour after retrieving my vehicle the check engine light had come on again. Error code p0520 only this time the diagnostic shows a bad connector pigtail for the sensor not the actual sensor .. so we tore into the motor to replace the pigtail . We also changed the valve covers, o rings , ,spark plugs ,and intake gaskets.
We put her back together the next day check engine light was illuminated again , diagnostics shows error code P0520 ,but this time dio graph says oil pressure switch stuck in on position ... So basically I'm wondering a few things
1.) Does any one know what could be causing this issue to keep happening ?
2.) I called Chrysler and was told there are no recalls or complaints on this issue ,even though this issue seems to be a common thing in these cars. So why are there no complaints? ? who would I complain to if I wanted to ?
3.) Is there any hope ,for me if I replace the sensor again with one ordered from Chrysler ?
Is it likely that this issue can actually be resolved ?
has anyone out there had this issue ,and had success in repair?
Should there be a petition to recall these cars ,this seems to be a common defect in the model ?
Im at a loss here sorry if this topic has already been posted somewhere else ..
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. Be careful with diagnosis here. Three different reasons for P0520, one-after-another sounds suspicious to me.
The 'no start' and 'engine temperature heating' message would be unrelated to the P0520.

Recalls are really only for defects that are safety or emissions related. There are non-recall 'customer satisfaction campaigns', some voluntary, some ordered by the FTC for other vehicle defects outside of safety or emission concerns. Many will get an extended warranty, like a 7/70. Some have a $100(?) deductible.

I don't think that the oil pressure switch fails that often. Certainly not out of the ordinary compared with other cars. Be careful what you read on the internet. Many 'problems' tend to get amplified or over-emphasized in Google searches.

Read the 'Theory of Operation' for P0520 (below) to understand what the computer is looking for when testing the sensor.
It is actually measuring the pressure difference between the engine not running (at atmospheric pressure) to the engine running. This is the pressure 'off-set' that determines whether the test passes or fails.
For this reason, the oil pressure switch backside and its pigtail connector must 'breathe' or be 'open-to-air'.
Some aftermarket pigtails or packing the connector with sealers or dielectric greases may not allow the connector to be 'vented'.

Also see the 'Possible Causes'. It can be wiring & ground issues as well. Inspect the harness between the sensor & PCM. Make sure that body grounds are clean & tight. The PCM itself failing is rare, but can be a possible cause.
It is at the bottom of the list because everything above it must be ruled out first. The PCM (and cats) are covered under an 8yr/80K mile extended federal emissions warranty.


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Use of OEM parts is strongly recommended. It doesn't necessarily have to be Mopar, but must call itself 'OEM'. I am leery with parts that call themselves OE-style or OE-fit.
At least with Mopar, you know you have the right part.
Root Cause investigation is an important early first step in diagnosis. A 'wrong' new part can have you seriously doubting yourself and your diagnosis when it does the same failure again.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum. Be careful with diagnosis here. Three different reasons for P0520, one-after-another sounds suspicious to me.
The 'no start' and 'engine temperature heating' message would be unrelated to the P0520.

Recalls are really only for defects that are safety or emissions related. There are non-recall 'customer satisfaction campaigns', some voluntary, some ordered by the FTC for other vehicle defects outside of safety or emission concerns. Many will get an extended warranty, like a 7/70. Some have a $100(?) deductible.

I don't think that the oil pressure switch fails that often. Certainly not out of the ordinary compared with other cars. Be careful what you read on the internet. Many 'problems' tend to get amplified or over-emphasized in Google searches.

Read the 'Theory of Operation' for P0520 (below) to understand what the computer is looking for when testing the sensor.
It is actually measuring the pressure difference between the engine not running (at atmospheric pressure) to the engine running. This is the pressure 'off-set' that determines whether the test passes or fails.
For this reason, the oil pressure switch backside and its pigtail connector must 'breathe' or be 'open-to-air'.
Some aftermarket pigtails or packing the connector with sealers or dielectric greases may not allow the connector to be 'vented'.

Also see the 'Possible Causes'. It can be wiring & ground issues as well. Inspect the harness between the sensor & PCM. Make sure that body grounds are clean & tight. The PCM itself failing is rare, but can be a possible cause.
It is at the bottom of the list because everything above it must be ruled out first. The PCM (and cats) are covered under an 8yr/80K mile extended federal emissions warranty.


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View attachment 59065

Use of OEM parts is strongly recommended. It doesn't necessarily have to be Mopar, but must call itself 'OEM'. I am leery with parts that call themselves OE-style or OE-fit.
At least with Mopar, you know you have the right part.
Root Cause investigation is an important early first step in diagnosis. A 'wrong' new part can have you seriously doubting yourself and your diagnosis when it does the same failure again.
Thanks for the info , but I'm starting to believe my whole problem was a very negligent repair ,for the first repair attempt . Lots of things weren't bolted down or fastened together correctly the clips on the pigtail we're broken we replaced the pigtail and corrected wire all the way into the wiring harness ... But I am seeing alot about Mopar and duralast parts not playing nice together .. the sensor the mechanic used for the first attempt was duralast ..
So this week I'm planning on ordering the correct sensor , and I'm goin to attempt one more repair .. not looking forward to having to do it ,as I just spent almost 300 to replace both valve cover gaskets and orings , the intake manifold gasket , spark plugs and pigtail ...but hopefully with any luck putting the oem sensor from Chrysler will correct the problem . Wish me luck ...,
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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I have had past issues with Duralast also and no longer shop at Autozone because of that. So far I've had good luck at Advance Auto and their store brand. Read the blurb online about the part. If you don't see OEM in the part description, it is a risk. I really am not close to a Parts Plus, O'Reillys or NAPA, so I won't give an opinion on them.
Avoid Bosch on Mopars as well. YMMV.

Getting the latest & greatest part number, should put an end to your P0520 problem. While they may have found a way to make the part cheaper, it is usually an improved part.
P0520 is not an engine mechanical fault, it is an electrical circuit fault.

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NOTE: On the Autozone website, the Duralast and Dorman brands don't mention OEM. The Valucraft does, it also gives the Mopar # for an equivalent. Use of OEM parts can be important.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have had past issues with Duralast also and no longer shop at Autozone because of that. So far I've had good luck at Advance Auto and their store brand. Read the blurb online about the part. If you don't see OEM in the part description, it is a risk. I really am not close to a Parts Plus, O'Reillys or NAPA, so I won't give an opinion on them.
Avoid Bosch on Mopars as well. YMMV.

Getting the latest & greatest part number, should put an end to your P0520 problem. While they may have found a way to make the part cheaper, it is usually an improved part.
P0520 is not an engine mechanical fault, it is an electrical circuit fault.

View attachment 59092

NOTE: On the Autozone website, the Duralast and Dorman brands don't mention OEM. The Valucraft does, it also gives the Mopar # for an equivalent. Use of OEM parts can be important.

View attachment 59093

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I am unfamiliar with what YMMV means ,but I do appreciate the information
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info , but I'm starting to believe my whole problem was a very negligent repair ,for the first repair attempt . Lots of things weren't bolted down or fastened together correctly the clips on the pigtail we're broken we replaced the pigtail and corrected wire all the way into the wiring harness ... But I am seeing alot about Mopar and duralast parts not playing nice together .. the sensor the mechanic used for the first attempt was duralast ..
So this week I'm planning on ordering the correct sensor , and I'm goin to attempt one more repair .. not looking forward to having to do it ,as I just spent almost 300 to replace both valve cover gaskets and orings , the intake manifold gasket , spark plugs and pigtail ...but hopefully with any luck putting the oem sensor from Chrysler will correct the problem . Wish me luck ...,
I also wanted to say , I lost all power twice while in drive the car killed on me , displayed a message saying shift to park to start ,then wouldn't start . Seems like loosing all power while driving would be considered a safety issue . I mean what would have happened to me if that would have happened as I was pulling on to a busy high way or while on interstate
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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YMMV= your mileage may vary - meaning you may or may not have an issue.

Stalling or an unexpected loss of power would be a recallable condition, but is it a widespread problem and is it because of the P0520? Probably not with the V6.
The 2.4L could stall because of low oil level. This did become a recall because some 2.4Ls burned oil and the oil level wasn't checked by many owners:

Always diagnose first.

Have you owned this vehicle since new or does Chrysler know you own the car? Have you changed addresses since your last dealership visit?
There have been recalls for the 2015. Make sure that they have been done. Contact the service desk with your VIN and they can look it up.

For the 'Shift to Park to start' message have them scan the modules (computers) for fault codes. OK the diagnostic charge of 1 hr and go from there after the P0520 is finally fixed.

There have also been computer update bulletins that aren't recalls, but are important. Software updates for the PCM should be covered under an 8yr/80K mile extended emissions warranty:
Your 9-speed is covered under a conditional extended warranty of 6yr/100K miles:
The transaxle also has a software update:

There are other less critical updates. Try to get them all done as they improve the car non-invasively & without much work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The car is a 2016 V6 , and I bought the car January 27th of this year . ..it broke down the first time three days after the contract was signed . I have had diagnostics done four times , and the first time I got quite a few codes for oil pressure sensor ,intake gasket ,coil packs ..
The valve cover gaskets were bad ,I had oil in my cylinders .. two weeks ago I changed all those gaskets and spark plugs along with the oil pressure sensor pigtail .. the only code that is showing now and consistently in all four diagnostics is the P0520 - most recently I had the diagnostic and a graph that shows the oil pressure switch is stuck in the on position I attached a photo of the second diagnosis ,corrected all of those things , but still the error code p0520 ... I'm at my wits end with this car ..
 

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Has the oil pressure switch been replaced with OEM and you still have P0520? Or does this need to be done yet?

Those 'coil ionization' faults may have caused a misfire, but should not have made the car quit & not start. Perhaps it was from the valve cover gaskets leaking oil into the spark plug tubes (not into the cylinders)?
Motor oil is a good insulator, it won't conduct spark to ground, but it can damage the rubber boots on the ignition coils. The ionization faults are usually from spark plugs (Carbon-fouled? Not worn), They must be the correct Champion Iridium RER8ZWYCB4, any other type of spark plug may cause issues.

It may be important to get you registered with Chrysler as the current owner, considering the unknown past history.

Sorry I mistook the year. Here are the PCM updates for a 2016. The PCM software may be covered under an 8yr/80K mile extended federal emissions warranty.:

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Looking back on your first post, you mention an 'engine temperature heating' message. Is this when the car didn't start? This makes sense now.
There have been cases of an 'Engine warming. Please wait to start'. message.
It may be something to do with the PROXI alignment. If you get to a Chrysler dealer, have the them double-check the PROXI after the module updates?:

 

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Just got the dreaded "check engine" light on our car. Checked and found the P0520 code related to the oil pressure switch. The engine is still quiet, so I suspect it is the switch.
Already have an appointment at the dealer for next Monday to inspect the front suspension and decide if the lower control arms will be replaced, along with the struts.
This is literally the first repair issue since owning the car.
 

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My car sits at the dealer right now. I don't like the story I got about the CEL. A wiring short, and a cut wire someplace. Not a clear explanation. No mention of the oil pressure sensor.
That's acceptable, so long as it get repaired.
Other items were advised to be repaired, or regular maintenance items suggested. A few had been done already, so either tech didn't check close enough, or just added them to the list. I was told the oil pan is cracked ? That I find hard to believe, but anything is possible.
My suspension is the other issue, and why I made the appointment is the first place.
Items that need to be replaced:
Both lower control arms
Both front and rear struts
Both rear hubs
Miscellaneous bushings

So, I now wait to see what Mopar service contract center has to say.
 
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