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Discussion Starter #1
Proactively replaced the battery in my 2015 200C 3.6 back in August, 2018. Old OEM battery was still working but 3.5 years old and I didn't want to get stuck somewhere with a dead battery. Everything was fine until yesterday. Drove the car on the 4th and 5th of this month and it was just fine; no problems. When I tried to start it yesterday morning, the battery was dead, would barely light the dash gauges etc. Checked the voltage with a voltmeter and it was 9.2 volts; essentially dead. Nothing was left on or plugged in from the 5th so I just thought it was a premature failure of my 4 month old battery. Returned the battery to the store and they promptly gave me a new battery which I installed, takes all of about 2 minutes. This is where all the fun starts.

After replacing the battery this morning, the car starts but odometer is flashing, service parking brake is illuminated, and the transmission indicator shows it being in neutral. The transmission knob will not move, the parking brake can be heard engaging and disengaging, but the dash still says service parking brake, and check engine light is on. The engine appears to be in limp mode as it won't accelerate. So I decide to turn off the engine and check the battery connections. The engine will not shut off, no matter what I try the engine continues to run; literally will not shut off. So the only way to turn it off is to disconnect the battery cables which immediately shuts the engine down. I clean the battery connections and reconnect the cables. Car starts right up but same problems. I can't get the car out of neutral, engine in limp mode and engine will not turn off. Radio and Nav seem to be working just fine. I get out my ODB tester and even though the MIL is illuminated, my tester says No Codes Stored. So I repeat this procedure over and over again but the same results after each try. Dealer can't even look at the car until the 15th so I have a few days to play with it until it gets towed to the shop. This certainly appears to be a computer issue of some type but not one that I have seen on this forum. I left the battery disconnected for an 2 hours and tried again. Exactly the same results. I can't even drive the car to the dealership as it won't go into any gear.

Any ideas? I am open to suggestions.
 

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Only a suggestion.
Use a trickle charger ( battery tender type ) and bring the new battery to a full charge. Sometimes the batteries sit on the retailers shelf for a while and may not be fully charged.
I did just that when I replaced the battery in our 200. Haven't had any issues.
But, the wife did tell me several things displayed on the dash on her way home from where I replaced the battery. ( at her job )
It takes at least 3 cycles of the vehicle running to reset the system after the battery is discounted.

Try a full charge first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The replacement battery measured 12.68 volts before I installed it. I have a trickle charger set at 2 amps right now on the battery by itself. I will let it charge for 3-5 hours then I will reconnect the cables and see if anything changes. I am thinking something went wrong when I turned the car off on the 5th and not all the systems shut down or went into sleep mode. This is what drained the battery overnight. One thing is certain, the computer is really screwed up at this time and won't allow the transmission to go into any gear. Maybe, something happened in the transmission that has caused this and the computer can't get it back into the proper gear/park. This is really a weird one.
 

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Only a suggestion.
Use a trickle charger ( battery tender type ) and bring the new battery to a full charge. Sometimes the batteries sit on the retailers shelf for a while and may not be fully charged.
I never thought to do that. It could be why I had to replace the battery 2 or 3 times in a matter of months (under battery warranty) with my son's Neon. I just thought it was something with newer batteries, never thought that it might be because they just sit on the shelf for so long.
 

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Another 2 cents for ya...what's the volts gauge reading w the car running? Alternator might have died? Battery just gonna start the car and hold the power the alternator puts out. Car would run fine w a good alternator and not so good battery. If alt is putting out 14.5v and still having issues, load test battery. Hopefully it's one of the two...good luck.
 

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I never thought to do that. It could be why I had to replace the battery 2 or 3 times in a matter of months (under battery warranty) with my son's Neon. I just thought it was something with newer batteries, never thought that it might be because they just sit on the shelf for so long.
Soon as I plugged in our new battery, even after a 40 mile drive home, the red indicator lit up showing the battery was accepting a charge. It took overnight for it to reach a full charge and the green indicator to light up showing a fully charged condition. Mind you, this was a battery tender, so it's a slow charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It isn't the battery or alternator. Again the battery is brand new, 24 hours. The battery voltage when installed was 12.68, the alternator shows 14. 2 volts when running. I disconnected the battery for 5 hours and left it on a 5 amp charger, then reconnected the battery and got the exact same results. I did a Google search and there are numerous reports of this going back to 2015. Battery dies, jump start or replace battery and then the car will not go into any gear. Most reports indicate TCM needs to be replaced or reflashed other reports indicate failure of the transmission selector switch. Just out of curiosity, I measured the current drain on the battery with the engine and all accessories turned off. The load is 3.25 amps. I measured it for 30 minutes. That is way too much. A 3 amp load will totally discharge these batteries in a little over 24 hours. Mine sat for about 45 hours before I actually disconnected the battery when going to get the replacement. Something is still "on" that shouldn't be "on" and that is causing the drain on the battery when the engine is off. I have disconnected the battery and am now waiting for AAA tow truck to haul the 200C to the dealership. I'll keep you posted when the dealer reports back to me.
 

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My battery problems have appeared yesyerday on my 2015 200c.
The battery reads 12.1 volts. Sometimes as kittle as 11.6 when the car is on acc mode.
While I'm driving I have the digital battery gauge on and I saw it dip to like 11 volts and climb back to like 13.7-13.9 volts while driving. Car stalled for half a sec before returning to normal. Dont know if it could be the battery. I don't think the alternator is bad because it boosted the battery from 12 to about 14 volts when running.
I may just have a bad battery. It does this on random days. Will replace the battery and update. Battery was made in 2017
 

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It isn't the battery or alternator. Again the battery is brand new, 24 hours. The battery voltage when installed was 12.68, the alternator shows 14. 2 volts when running. I disconnected the battery for 5 hours and left it on a 5 amp charger, then reconnected the battery and got the exact same results. I did a Google search and there are numerous reports of this going back to 2015. Battery dies, jump start or replace battery and then the car will not go into any gear. Most reports indicate TCM needs to be replaced or reflashed other reports indicate failure of the transmission selector switch. Just out of curiosity, I measured the current drain on the battery with the engine and all accessories turned off. The load is 3.25 amps. I measured it for 30 minutes. That is way too much. A 3 amp load will totally discharge these batteries in a little over 24 hours. Mine sat for about 45 hours before I actually disconnected the battery when going to get the replacement. Something is still "on" that shouldn't be "on" and that is causing the drain on the battery when the engine is off. I have disconnected the battery and am now waiting for AAA tow truck to haul the 200C to the dealership. I'll keep you posted when the dealer reports back to me.
Yep. Appears not to be a battery issue at all. Sure sounds like something is shorted in the electrical system and that killed your first replacement battery. Hope it's not going to be an expensive item as, whatever it is, I suspect it's not covered under the 5 year power train warranty. May even be multiple things now. In addition to whatever short may have discharged your battery, the TCM failures for others following a battery dying and being replaced/jumped could be a secondary consequence of the primary failure.
 

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My battery problems have appeared yesyerday on my 2015 200c.
The battery reads 12.1 volts. Sometimes as kittle as 11.6 when the car is on acc mode.
While I'm driving I have the digital battery gauge on and I saw it dip to like 11 volts and climb back to like 13.7-13.9 volts while driving. Car stalled for half a sec before returning to normal. Dont know if it could be the battery. I don't think the alternator is bad because it boosted the battery from 12 to about 14 volts when running.
I may just have a bad battery. It does this on random days. Will replace the battery and update. Battery was made in 2017
I don't know, the 11~ volts to 13~ volts while driving sure sounds like a charging system issue, like a bad alternator, but I suppose could also be a bad cable or loose connector. The 14 volt reading you also reporting seeing is not the voltage of the battery, it is the voltage being supplied by the charging system. So you are not "boosting" the battery to this level. A fully charged healthy battery will be 12.9 - 13.1 volts depending on temperature.

And, again, the voltage you see in ACC or RUN (the only one that displays for me) with the engine not running is not the real-time battery voltage. That reading has never agreed for me with a measurement with a simultaneous volt meter reading. It may be though that the computer measures and stores the battery voltage at the last startup, and that is what you see on the display when the engine is not running. Haven't tested this theory.
 

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Last week, when my testing showed my second OEM battery was not holding a charge, I replaced it after 26 months use. The original one failed with a dead cell after 29 months. Seems likely was what was about to happen to the second one too, especially with January temperatures on the way so I replaced it before it had a chance to die on me.

The OEM is warrantied for 24 months. So this time, with no bumper to bumper warranty coverage, I put in an Autozone Duralast H7-DLG, with a 36 mo warranty.

The Duralast was manufactured in September 2018, so already 3-4 months old. Off the shelf, it read 12.41 volts. Not an issue. Every new battery I've purchased came off the shelf between 12.4 and 12.6. You just don't want a lead-acid battery to set at less than 12.1 V, at which point sulfation sets in.

After I installed it I charged it with my Noco Genius smart charger / maintainer. 100% charge with the Noco resulted in 12.9 volts at ~40°. Didn't have to drive the car anywhere until today (I'm retired :)), so I checked the voltage every day to see what the discharge rate was.

Day 0 12.90V (after full charge)
Day 1 12.71
Day 2 12.60
Day 3 12.51
Day 4 12.44

At which point I needed to start and drive the car.

Disregarding temperature it looks like it might extrapolate something like this.

Day 5 12.38 est
Day 6 12.32 est
Day 7 12.26 est
...
Day 10 12.0_

So, assuming mine is normal (dealer did check the current draw after the first battery failure), to preserve battery life a charge is recommended after approximately a week and half without driving. (Note: My UF has all electrical/electronic options except moon roof, and testing was done with the alarm disarmed.) This was at around 40°, so would likely be less time if colder, more if warmer.

Likewise, with only short drives between re-starts the battery is also not likely to maintain a healthy charge and should be recharged regularly if you want to preserve it's life.
 

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I just changed my OE battery with a East Penn Deka. It wasn't giving me any trouble but but at 4 years and 4 months with over 90K miles, I figured it was due. When I pulled it out my Midtronics tester said it only had 507 amps and to recharge and re-test so I figured I made a good call !
 

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I just changed my OE battery with a East Penn Deka. It wasn't giving me any trouble but but at 4 years and 4 months with over 90K miles, I figured it was due. When I pulled it out my Midtronics tester said it only had 507 amps and to recharge and re-test so I figured I made a good call !
And with the high miles you regularly drive (unlike me) yours was likely kept as fully charged as could be expected. The days of OE batteries lasting 5 years or more have passed (at least for vehicles from manufacturers with only three-year bumper to bumper warranties.:()

A few of us on another vehicle forum are investing in these lighter socket voltmeter/USB power adapters. For owners who don't drive enough to insure our batteries are kept adequately charged should provide an easy way to keep an eye on battery voltage.
 

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And with the high miles you regularly drive (unlike me) yours was likely kept as fully charged as could be expected. The days of OE batteries lasting 5 years or more have passed (at least for vehicles from manufacturers with only three-year bumper to bumper warranties.:()

A few of us on another vehicle forum are investing in these lighter socket voltmeter/USB power adapters. For owners who don't drive enough to insure our batteries are kept adequately charged should provide an easy way to keep an eye on battery voltage.
Maybe if its kept outdoors a solar "battery maintainer" might not be a bad idea? They can charge through the cigarette lighter/accessory port so the device can stay inside the vehicle - most of them have battery clamps and accessory port connectors.
 

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A few of us on another vehicle forum are investing in these lighter socket voltmeter/USB power adapters. For owners who don't drive enough to insure our batteries are kept adequately charged should provide an easy way to keep an eye on battery voltage.
I just replaced one of the 12 volt outlets in my Polaris Ranger with a dual USB and LED volt meter that looks very similar. I did that after having a charging problem that ended up being the voltage regulator. It take 3 feeds of AC voltage from the stator and converts it to DC volts. I replaced it with a supposedly better aftermarket unit but I still like to keep an eye on the voltage now.
 

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Maybe if its kept outdoors a solar "battery maintainer" might not be a bad idea? They can charge through the cigarette lighter/accessory port so the device can stay inside the vehicle - most of them have battery clamps and accessory port connectors.
Yes, it would be a good idea, except vehicle is stored in garage and only window is on the north side. I suppose solar panel could be mounted outside though and wired to the battery. However, I have yet to figure out a good way to wire a cable from the battery with access for a connector outside of engine compartment for easy connect / disconnect. So will stick with my Noco Genius charger/maintainer and opening the hood when needed.
 

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...A few of us on another vehicle forum are investing in these lighter socket voltmeter/USB power adapters. For owners who don't drive enough to insure our batteries are kept adequately charged should provide an easy way to keep an eye on battery voltage.
Received the two I ordered and from all appearances it is a quality product. The drawback is the placement of the outlets in our cars.

Could use the one hidden in the console, however, of course must slide open the cover to see it. Since that outlet is unswitched it would display a reading with the ignition off, which is helpful. However, the display would also put a slight additional load on the battery, which may not be good.

On the other hand, the outlet on the passenger side of the tunnel is not switched so must set the igntion to ACCY or ON to get a reading. Also have to lean over to see it. Advantage though with unswitched outlet is no additional parasitic load on the battery with ignition off.

A third choice would be to only plug it in to the inner console outlet periodically to check the voltage.

While none of the choices are perfect, all still a lot easier than opening the hood and connecting a meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just got my 200C back from the dealer. It took them a week just to look at the car. Evidently something caused the 120 day old battery to die overnight on the 5th. I installed a brand new replacement battery and that is when all the problems started with the computer etc. Car was towed to dealer on the 8th. Before it was towed I measured the current drain at 3+ amps even when everything was turned off. Battery was then disconnected when towed to the dealer. Dealer reports that the TCM and PCM were corrupted. They reflashed both (for $150) and the car was good to go. They also replaced the transmission selector cable as it was under a factory recall (no charge). Seems odd that something caused the first battery to die overnight and the TCM and PCM to also die. The dealer found nothing else wrong. So, I am guessing that whatever caused the battery to die was most likely not found on this visit to the dealer. I will just have to wait and see how it does over the next few days. It seems to start and run just fine since I picked it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Heck no. They didn't even offer a loaner of any type. Fortunately, I had my trusty 2002 Ford F150 with 120,000 miles, to drive. The F150 has never been back to any dealer since it was new. That's reliability!
 
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