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Just started getting this issue around 88k miles on a 2015 2.4, when the car isn't warmed up fully and you come to a stop or sometimes slow enough to turn the car dies and acts like it's lost all fuel pressure. Put it in park, let it crank a couple times and it'll finally sputter then run perfectly fine. No check engine light, no codes being thrown. Anyone else had this issue???
 

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Just started getting this issue around 88k miles on a 2015 2.4, when the car isn't warmed up fully and you come to a stop or sometimes slow enough to turn the car dies and acts like it's lost all fuel pressure. Put it in park, let it crank a couple times and it'll finally sputter then run perfectly fine. No check engine light, no codes being thrown. Anyone else had this issue???
I have a 2015 200 with the 2.4 engine.
Never had the engine stall, but cold operation is definitely a problem for my car.
It hates the cold.
My only suggestion is the change the spark plugs first. It is inexpensive if you do it yourself, and they are in need at this mileage. When I replaced mine at 95K, they improved drive-ability and smoothness at idle.
There could be any number of other issues, but throwing parts at a problem is never the answer.
Diagnose first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I plan on replacing the plugs soon, but it seems to be more of a fuel issue than a spark issue. My car absolutely hates the cold too, especially the transmission. I'll try that soon, anyone have any other suggestions?
 

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This one is a bit out of left field but this sounds kind of similar to an issue I had on a car years ago. It would stall at idle when cold but once warmed up it would be fine. With that car I had to keep the accelerator in a tiny bit to keep the engine above idle until it warmed up. In that case it was a bad EGR valve that was causing the stall until the engine was at operating temperatures. This was a different and much older car so I have no idea if it would be the same thing here but it might be worth investigating as one possibility if the plugs aren't the cause.
 

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This one is a bit out of left field but this sounds kind of similar to an issue I had on a car years ago. It would stall at idle when cold but once warmed up it would be fine. With that car I had to keep the accelerator in a tiny bit to keep the engine above idle until it warmed up. In that case it was a bad EGR valve that was causing the stall until the engine was at operating temperatures. This was a different and much older car so I have no idea if it would be the same thing here but it might be worth investigating as one possibility if the plugs aren't the cause.
Thank you, I'll look into that as well if the plugs don't help.
 

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As mentioned above, changing the plugs is a good place too start seeing theyre due anyway. Make sure oil and coolant level is correct the 2.4 is touchy w this. I would also run a tank full of name brand premium gas and a quality fuel additive to clean out the fuel and emissions system and some sensors. The name brand premium fuels usually have the biggest amounts of additives and generic cheapest gas is the worst. I think a lifetime of cheapest gas will crud up an engine pre-maturely. (Not saying thats your case, just saying) Keep us posted how you make out. Good luck!
 

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As mentioned above, changing the plugs is a good place too start seeing theyre due anyway. Make sure oil and coolant level is correct the 2.4 is touchy w this. I would also run a tank full of name brand premium gas and a quality fuel additive to clean out the fuel and emissions system and some sensors. The name brand premium fuels usually have the biggest amounts of additives and generic cheapest gas is the worst. I think a lifetime of cheapest gas will crud up an engine pre-maturely. (Not saying thats your case, just saying) Keep us posted how you make out. Good luck!
I believe running a tank of E-85 will also help clean the fuel system.
 

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Only use E85 if you have a yellow gas cap indicating your vehicle is flex-fuel capable. Putting E85 in a vehicle not designed for it will cause problems.

As for a fuel additive, I would suggest Techron.
 

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Just started getting this issue around 88k miles on a 2015 2.4, when the car isn't warmed up fully and you come to a stop or sometimes slow enough to turn the car dies and acts like it's lost all fuel pressure. Put it in park, let it crank a couple times and it'll finally sputter then run perfectly fine. No check engine light, no codes being thrown. Anyone else had this issue???
This happens to me every winter. And when I take it to the shop, they just give me a new battery. But I’ve had my battery tested and it’s good. The shop just switched my supposedly good battery for a new one.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. A battery per year sounds a little too often.
Most auto parts stores offer free testing. Reserve CCA is usually a good indicator of how much battery life is left.
Does it jump start OK?
Product Automotive tire Sleeve Font Automotive exterior

Sleeve Font Engineering Advertising Brand
 

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This happens to me every winter. And when I take it to the shop, they just give me a new battery. But I’ve had my battery tested and it’s good. The shop just switched my supposedly good battery for a new one.
It starts great when I initially start it. But when I get to the stop sign at the end of my road, it dies. I put it in park and press the button to start. It takes a minute and starts. I’ve learned to let it run for a while before taking off. That helped but now it is happening even after I’ve let it run. I took it to a parts store and had my battery tested. It tested good. So now I’m thinking it wasn’t the battery every year. I’ve not had to use jumper cables to start it.
 

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It doesn't sound like a battery issue. Does it idle rough before it dies or idle slow or shake at a stop?
What year & engine do you have? If you drive with a foot on the brake and a foot on the gas, can you keep it from stalling?
Any 'ck eng' light coming on?
 

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my gfs 200 is doing the same thing has anyone figured this out?

It starts great when I initially start it. But when I get to the stop sign at the end of my road, it dies. I put it in park and press the button to start. It takes a minute and starts. I’ve learned to let it run for a while before taking off. That helped but now it is happening even after I’ve let it run. I took it to a parts store and had my battery tested. It tested good. So now I’m thinking it wasn’t the battery every year. I’ve not had to use jumper cables to start it.
 

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Welcome to the forum. This is a 2015 with the 2.4L? Any fault codes or messages?
Any recent service or has anyone tried to diagnose this yet?
 

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2.4 yea. just general maintenance. its only been going for a week or two. not really in a spot to go to a shop so looking here for more info. yesterday was the first day any lights came on check engine, battery, track control off and the low tire came on. it took everything i had to just make it home. i just don't know how to work on things this new.
 

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If the 'ck eng' light came on, it should have stored a fault code. It may have also disabled the ESP/TRAC control. The red battery light may indicate a charging problem?
I would stop by your friendly neighborhood auto parts store for a battery & charging test. See post #10. They can also scan for fault codes. The fault code may not necessarily mean that the part has failed & needs to be replaced. Always diagnose first.
Let us know what they find.
Font Automotive exterior Wood Vehicle door Motor vehicle
 

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so the parts store ran the codes and it came back as a mass air leak. a vacuum leak? and that's the only thing it said. the battery and all i think is fine i think it was getting low cause i was cranking a lot yesterday when i was stuck.
 

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Did the code have a 'P' number? Was it the mass air flow (MAF) sensor?
Or a massive air leak (such as a massive vacuum leak)?
Is the hiss audible & can you locate it?
Check all rubber vacuum hoses for looseness or cracks (dry rot).
The MAF is between the air cleaner & throttle body.
Does it idle OK when warm?
Check the air filter & cleaner for blockage, like varmint nests,etc.
There was a software flash to improve cold idle & false P2172. The PCM flash is free for vehicles under 8 yrs/80K miles, however the dealer may apply a diagnostic charge. Shop policies & labor rates vary.

MAF codes:
Font Rectangle Circle Art Number

PCV hose split (could be any hose):
Eye Product Eyelash Font Automotive tire

TSB #18-083-18:
Font Parallel Number Screenshot
 

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Solve for P2172 first. See post #18. The C121C code may be because of P2172.
Do you hear any 'hiss' from the engine with the hood up at idle (check for vacuum leaks)?
Has the flash bulletin been done? If you PM me the last 8 of the VIN, I can look it up.
Was the car pre-owned? Do you know its service history?
 
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