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Front active grill shutters

77K views 41 replies 24 participants last post by  fumigator 
#1 ·
Anyone have to replace the active grill shutter motor on the 2015 200 yet.. or am I the 1st :(((((
 
#5 ·
engine light came on and took it to the dealership, I forget the code but they took it apart and found it wasn't working..it closes at a certain speed to help with aero for better gas mileage
 
#7 ·
Had these on my Dart also and although there were some people that had the motor burn out I never had the problem up here in the snowy great white North. Always was worried when I brought it to the car wash in winter but never had a problem.

Hope the 200 is the same.
 
#9 ·
Thanks! went yesterday but didn't have the part I :((( I was just driving in a snow storm and the next morning the light was on, We drive in a lot of snow storms here ... Hope it doesn't do this all the time :((( think its time for a Dart lol
 
#10 ·
Every time I go up my driveway in snow I have to use a wooden spoon to clean out the snow that the wheels love to pack inside or else I can't drive the car the next day and it partially melts and then freezes throwing off the balance. First car that I ever had this problem with. :eek:
 
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#11 ·
^^ I have the same issue^^ I wonder if that's what caused the issue I had (defective sensor)

..do they all have active front grill shutters?
 
#12 ·
I thought they were all going to have them but the start-stop system was not ready yet. They were supposed to have it for the 4 cylinders I remember reading.
 
#15 ·
My car is in CA, less than 25,000 miles on the car and they are telling my shutters broke and NO they are not covered under warranty...... They state that the grill has a dink and that it most likely caused them to break .. They stated they have had several issues with these but NO a plastic shutter in the front of the car is not a poor design. ??. Cost to fix it $643.
 
#16 ·
I have a 200 here in CA and my car is only 18 mo old and has less than 25,000 miles on it and they told me mine need to be replaced.... NO mine is not under warranty because they stated there was a dink in my grill that most likely caused them to break. They stated there have been several people with this issue, but NO it is not a poor design
 
#17 ·
Brought my 200 is for recall work on the crimp wires to the transmission sensors. Drove away and five minutes later my check engine light comes on. Now they are telling me that my AGS needs work. And they are going to have to pull my bumper off to investigate because they can't see the problem. Seems fishy to me.
 
#21 ·
1. You could take our word for it,

Or,

2. You could lay face down on the hood with your arms and legs spread eagle holding on to both fenders, rear end toward the windshield, with your head low enough to see in the bottom grill, and tell your best buddy to punch it til it says about 70 mph. Watch the flappers in all of their glory. This takes a while with the 4 banger.
 
#23 ·
hi. i have Chrysler 200 2015.and i have Question.
lamp check my car is on,and error code U11E9 . i search in internet and see this meaning error code is (Lost communication with AGS)(active grille shutter)
And active grills shtter my car is open Even when the car is off, it is also turned on. The fan is turned on from the very beginning when the car is cold. What do you think is the main problem.thanks
 
#28 ·
Year? Model? It's important in your posts...

When the car is on what does the coolant temperature show on the speedometer cluster? A bad/defective coolant sensor may cause the fan to stay on and might also force the AGS (active grill shutter) to the Open state... There are also high and low speed fan relays in the fuse box under the hood that may be commanded to turn on...

Your AGS module will return to the open state when it is first initialized (plugged in) so that is normal...
The PCM (power train control module) talks to the AGS on the CANBUS and it seams from your post that it is not receiving a reply...therefore the "lost communication with AGS" code"... If it was stuck open or closed and still communicating you would probably receive codes for those conditions... I would suggest that you check the plugs/sockets connecting to the AGS for corrosion... The AGS may also be bad...

Diagnosing anything on these cars can be a nightmare... I'm still learning what module controls what..(just for my personal satisfaction)...

I welcome others to chime in on this thread as we learn from each others...
Dave
 
#35 ·
Year? Model? It's important in your posts...

When the car is on what does the coolant temperature show on the speedometer cluster? A bad/defective coolant sensor may cause the fan to stay on and might also force the AGS (active grill shutter) to the Open state... There are also high and low speed fan relays in the fuse box under the hood that may be commanded to turn on...

Your AGS module will return to the open state when it is first initialized (plugged in) so that is normal...
The PCM (power train control module) talks to the AGS on the CANBUS and it seams from your post that it is not receiving a reply...therefore the "lost communication with AGS" code"... If it was stuck open or closed and still communicating you would probably receive codes for those conditions... I would suggest that you check the plugs/sockets connecting to the AGS for corrosion... The AGS may also be bad...

Diagnosing anything on these cars can be a nightmare... I'm still learning what module controls what..(just for my personal satisfaction)...

I welcome others to chime in on this thread as we learn from each others...
Dave
I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 with AGS Problem
 
#29 ·
Thabks for the reply!
2016 Chrysler 200 limited 4cyl.

Temp seems to be normal, starts low and hits normal range when its warmed up.

I was going to replace the fan speed relay just to try it but didnt have luck at the parts store. They couldnt find anything for a relay in their system. I am going to look at another store to see what they say.

One thing I was wondering, if im abale to find the issue....say it was a corroded wire and fixed it, would the light just go out or would I have to reset it and hope it doesnt come back on? I unplugged the batter and held the terminals together for a minute. Hooked battery back up. Obviously the light was out when I started it. It stayed out until i started moving the car the next day. Turned right on as it moved. Wasnt sure if i needed to do that step after every try.

Thanks again for any insight you can be.

Justin
 
#36 ·
Welcome to the forums. This may be more than an AGS issue if you were experiencing cutting off (stalling?), needing a jump and a Service Transmission message.
Get the powertrain control module (PCM/TCM) fault codes read and written down. Even if the symptoms went away, the past fault codes should be stored in memory. Then we can begin diagnosis.
Does this car have a service history? Have you owned it since new?
A common AGS fault code is U11E9 (lost communication).
The AGS is out front and low to the ground. It is susceptible to road splash/salt spray and physical damage. If you find corrosion, try drying and cleaning the connector and terminal pins. Repack the connector with a waterproof silicone (dielectric) grease :

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#40 ·
so, my sister has reported they've had CEL on the 2015 200 they have. what i've gathered it sounds like they are experiencing AGS error of some kind. i so far am not able to get the error code but the dealer scan implied no concern and not worth repair. i'm going to presume the shutter has failed in the open position which presents no concerns on driveability nor cooling. the car has a dinger at the bottom of the grill so it sounds like this may have started the problem. glad its not serious but another case where the stupid CEL doesn't really tell what the problem is such that if a new code were to come in you wouldn't know it without reading and clearing the codes. anyone have any cost effective OBD code readers for Chrysler?
 
#41 ·
A friendly, local auto parts store may have a free 'customer-use' code reader that is capable of reading this code.
I agree with confirming the code. I hate guessing.
If the light stays on, it is worth the repair. You are correct that if a 2nd, more critical fault occurred while the light is already on, you would never know.
Besides, I hate nagging warning lights that stay on.
Sometimes paying the man his 'diagnostic fee' for the answer is cheaper than a scan tool.
Did the dealer paperwork list the fault code?
 
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