|CAUTION:||Upon removing the knuckle from the ball joint stud, do not pull outward on the knuckle. Pulling the knuckle outward at this point can separate the inner C/V joint on the half shaft thus damaging it. |
Good advice on the install of these bushings. Volvo used the same design on the lower control arm bushings with a few models and have experience with them. You are spot on here in that if you tighten these up with the weight off the suspension you will put the busing in a strain with this design and cause it to prematurely fail. Know this from direct experience with a Volvo using this design and just had to replace a set of busings a second time as a result!!There have been a couple of Mopar part number revisions, so hopefully the newer bushings are better.
When replacing control arms, etc. it is important to leave the fasteners loose until the weight of the vehicle is on the ground at road-attitude. Then torque the fasteners to the correct values.
If the fasteners are tightened with the vehicle off the ground and the wheels hanging, this will introduce a 'twist' to the rubber bushing once the car is sitting on the ground. This can stress and eventually tear the new rubber bushing.
What was the mileage on yours when you found this? Mine was out on both sides at under 5 years and just over 52000 miles. Car was bought new by us in July of 2015 and has been babied not beat on rough roads or abused in any way. This was frightening to see happen at this mileage and time on this car the way it has been treated since new. Had some puzzling symptoms as of late such as abrupt clunk on a couple harsh bumps and at times then some weird abrupt jerks when decelerating and then getting back on the throttle or suddenly backing off on a hill as of late that then could not be recreated. Leads me to believe there may be a design issue or material issue with the bushings here.
E20 for the forward facing and bottom control arm bolt and E16 for the bottom ball joint pinch bolt... car is sitting on jacks at the moment waiting for parts. Replacing the whole control arm instead of just the bushing because the bottom of the bushing / control arm was damaged. Odd that I don't recall running over anything.I know that you will also need some "E" torx sockets...