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I have a 2011 200, the 3.6l V6, I had the heater core replaced in February 2015 due to no heat on the passenger side. I live in Vermont, so no heat in February is not ideal. Thankfully, I purchased the lifetime extended warranty, it was fixed with my $150 deductible. It's now end of October 2015, approximately 8 months later and I am having the same problem, no heat on the passenger side and now there is a clicking noise in the dash when I have the fan on, but only for the first few seconds after I start the car (clicking noise started 2 weeks ago).

After reading this forum, it sounds like this could be a recurring issue with the car unless the radiator and heater core are both replaced, along with a coolant flush. I brought my car in for 80k service and oil change last week and they told me to come back in for a coolant service, but it sounds like this should be taken care of because of the heater core problem.

Should I expect to have this repair covered since I had it fixed about 8 months ago? I have also had to have the head replaced because of sticky cylinders, thankfully it was covered by Chrysler. This 2011 200 has too many issues, starting to regret buying the car.
 

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When we bought our 'new' 2013 last month, there were two 200's on the lot. The tan one had the orange/pink AF and considerable sludge in the reservoir. The brown one had purple AF and no sludge. As luck would have it, the tan one was being bought by a couple inside the showroom. So we ended up with the one with purple AF.
The car only had 12k miles so it's not likely it was changed by the 1st owner. Did Chrysler ever use purple AF or switch to it at some point?
 

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Chrysler switched coolants between the 2012 and 2013 model year. You can't intermix the two different coolants. If somebody did intermix them by mistake it could lead to a gelling, sludgy mess and clog things up. I don't have the specs on the two coolants. I think the old style was HOAT and the new style is OAT but I'm positive about the bad things that can happen if they are combined. Chrysler's MOPAR parts group put out a bulletin about it because Chrysler used the old style for so many years it was a big change. The bulletin had a picture of the consequences of intermixing and it looks like pink toothpaste.
 

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I purchased a 2012 with 35000 miles in Feb 2015. Has been cooler on the passenger side for a while. Took it to the dealer and they currently are trying to flush it first. They said if that doesn't work they will have to replace the overflow tank, radiator and heater core. Told me I just missed the bumper to bumper so I don't think this is going to be at no charge, but as yet don't have a clue how much this is going to cost. Anyone have an idea?
 

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I have a 2011 3.6L touring convertible (71k) with the same cold air issue. However, My coolant looks fine and I do not have any coolant odor in the cabin. I spoke with the service manager at my dealership here in Northern Ca (Roseville) and he said they have had NO 200s come in with this issue. I am wondering if mine could possibly be related to stuck blend door or the actuator unit, itself.

Your thoughts, please.....
 

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I am battling with the same heating issue on the passenger side on our 2011 200 limited. The actuator is working fine, I tested it. Next looks like a heater core replacement according to this thread. Any updates? Has anyone replaced the heater core just to find out that was not the issue?
 

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90% of the problem with these cars is letting some fast lube place touch it...it's like drinking and driving: Just Don't do it!
Either learn to do maintain the car yourself or take it to the dealer. If you keep letting the big chain auto places work on your car, then expect to pay big bills to shady mechanics.

Chrysler in their brilliance had four different colors of coolant in 2012 and 2014, but they are not compatible with each other. The 2012 came with orange or red HOAT. The early 2013 had red OAT, which was then changed to Purple OAT so there would be no mix up. If you add just 10% of HOAT to OAT (and vice versa) it turns into pink sludge that plugs up everything..usually starting with the heater core.

Take you car to Quickly Lube/Stop King/Waterstone/ Beers/ etc (the names have been changed to protect the innocent and myself) and they dump in the wrong stuff, and yes I'm implying that some do this on purpose because they know you will be back for expensive repairs.

So go open up the cap on your overflow tank and take a sniff...if you smell ammonia and see stuff floating on the top, then you've had your coolant contaminated. Get that crap flushed out ASAP and put in the expensive Mopar Purple OAT so their will be no mix ups in the future, and yes, it is backwards compatible with the 2011-12 models if you flush ALL the HOAT out.

I bought a very early made 2013 Charger V6 from a well known used car chain and watched with horror as the detail guy poured in red HOAT into my red OAT...he said "it's all red so what is the problem" We went in to the managers office and I showed them on the computer what they were doing wrong. I told them I would have it repaired myself (by myself) and they would reimburse me the cost of materials or the deal was done. They accepted and I fixed it by flushing it with radiator flush (twice) then putting in plain water and driving it until it was good and hot (it took five times before it stopped coming out pink) I then ran distilled water through it (3 times) then blew all the hoses out with my air compressor. I added the Mopar Purple and have had no issues for two + years.

Pic one is the Red mixture I drained out after the car dealer messed it up, pics two and three show the varieties of coolant, and pic four is the pretty purple OAT.


Water Gas Two-liter bottle Plastic Fluid
Text Line Font Colorfulness
Product Water Fluid Plastic bottle Plastic
Vehicle Car Engine Auto part
 

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So the main problem with the sludging of the coolant was due to shops topping off the coolant with the wrong stuff causing the gelling of the coolant to clog the radiator and heater core?

Or was it due to debris being in the coolant parts when manufactured?
 

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As far as I'm aware, the sludge in the coolant is due to manufacturing chemicals (used by the manufacturer of the cooling system parts not Chrysler) not being cleaned out properly, mixing with the coolant and causing the sludge. No automobile manufacturer I know of uses stop-leak chemicals in a brand new vehicle. This is what we (the techs at our dealer) were told was the problem. We've had Jeep Wranglers, 200's and Avengers. The Star case I read the other day dealt with trucks, I believe. We were told the heater core, radiator and oil cooler have to be replaced, AND the system flushed as well. So that's what the guys lucky enough to draw these jobs do. In keeping a very close eye on mine. There seems to be no set time on when it will occur, either...we've had vehicles with less than 1k, and those with as many as 20k.


Post #13 in this thread.

I went to my fathers place and checked his coolant on his 2013. (V6, Manufacture date of 05/2013) Its red in there. Looks like Tomato juice. Took the cap off and it didn't look milky at all. More like Tomato juice. Must be the red OAT.
 

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Post #13 may be true, however I suspect the overall majority of these cases involve the mixing of coolant from sources unfamiliar with the consequences of mixing the different formula's of anti-freeze.
Think about this for a moment. If you mix any chemical with another that has an adverse reaction to the other, the response to that reaction is usually very quick. On a new vehicle I believe the issues would occur within the first year of ownership, or less. Most people don't even look at the cooling system anyway. After a few oil changes and the quick lube guy topping off the reservoir tank a few times, the whole mess turns to sludge. I doubt ( in my opinion ) it's from any residue left during the manufacturing of the cooling system parts. It's cross contamination.
 

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Post #13 may be true, however I suspect the overall majority of these cases involve the mixing of coolant from sources unfamiliar with the consequences of mixing the different formula's of anti-freeze.
Think about this for a moment. If you mix any chemical with another that has an adverse reaction to the other, the response to that reaction is usually very quick. On a new vehicle I believe the issues would occur within the first year of ownership, or less. Most people don't even look at the cooling system anyway. After a few oil changes and the quick lube guy topping off the reservoir tank a few times, the whole mess turns to sludge. I doubt ( in my opinion ) it's from any residue left during the manufacturing of the cooling system parts. It's cross contamination.
I see that is true about a new car where it would happen within the first year or so. Which has been the case for members on here if you browse through all the pages.

I honestly never seen a quick lube guy top off coolant before. I worked at a shop years ago for about a year and I never topped off coolant or was ever instructed too since there are so many different kinds. The fact these cars are fairly new, and the coolant is designed to last 5yr or 100k miles and not be touched in that time frame and people are having issues with it raises eyebrows.
 

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Um, cars need coolant topped off. I have only had one car in ten years that didn't need some coolant added. Granted, I drive my cars very aggressively, so adding coolant is pretty standard.

With the 200, just follow the manual and pour Chrysler-approved coolants. There shouldn't be a formula mix concern unless someone just dumped random coolant into a car (don't do that!).
 

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I bought my 200 limited about 4 months ago. It was still summer. I didnt notic the problem until the temperature dropped. Now i only have heat on the drivers side and even that isn't hot. I contacted Chrysler and they might reimburse me for this issue, but i have to pay out of pocket because of course the "wonderfull" powertrain warranty doesn't cover this issue. Did anyone have to pay out of pocket and how much did it cost?? And did replacing the heater core fix the issue!?
 

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I bought my 200 limited about 4 months ago. It was still summer. I didnt notic the problem until the temperature dropped. Now i only have heat on the drivers side and even that isn't hot. I contacted Chrysler and they might reimburse me for this issue, but i have to pay out of pocket because of course the "wonderfull" powertrain warranty doesn't cover this issue. Did anyone have to pay out of pocket and how much did it cost?? And did replacing the heater core fix the issue!?
Ever since the inception of the "powertrain" warranties, NO manufacturer has covered heater / air conditioning / ventilation systems in the vehicle under that warranty. HVAC systems are covered, while under the new basic warranty by ALL manufacturers.
As for a cost to fix your problem, that would be impossible to determine. You could have any numbers of issues causing the problem you describe. Let a qualified mechanic diagnose your problem so you know exactly what is going on.
If you have at least some heat on one side, it does narrow down the possibilities. The heater core, if blocked wouldn't allow any heat, so most likely that isn't the problem. A blend air door may be stuck or not opening. In combination the thermostat may not be allowing the engine to achieve proper temperature.
Find a reliable mechanic and properly diagnose your problem.
 

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This is a good reason to read the details of your warranty if you haven't. There are quite a few things NOT covered under MOST manufacturers powertrain warranties.

With my first 13' 200 S V6 touring (before I traded it for the Black 15' 200S AWD) I had an issue and reported it before the basic 3 year 36K mile warranty was up. They replaced the water pump (not under powertrain warranty - but under basic 3 year 36 K mile warranty) - the car had a few miles over 36K but they physically saw and confirmed the problem with less than 36K miles on the odometer before the appointment. Then later the repair didn't resolve the problem, but since it was documented that I had it in for the same problem/symptom before, they replaced my idler pulley (also not on the powertrain warranty from ANY manufacturer) free of charge.
 

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I have a 2012 Chrysler 200 that I bought used at the end of 2012 with 30,000 miles on it. It apparently was a rental car before I owned it somewhere up in Nashville TN. I didn't notice this issue my first winter with the car. Fortunately I live in Florida, so it doesn't get that cold all the time in the winter and I don't have to run heat all that often. However, I noticed one particularly cold morning I had frost on my windows but it was only clearing on the driver's side and not the passenger side. I put it off as it would eventually melt off and the only time I was driving at that time of day with frost was to and from work, which is only a couple miles. Jump ahead to 2016. Well it hasn't gotten cold enough yet here in Orlando for frost (gotta wait usually to January). Then I noticed a popping sound that happens when I start my car from behind the dash of my passenger side, this only occurs when the a/c or fan is on. I looked that up and found out what it was, not a serious issue so I would put it off to my next oil change. Then my check engine light came on the other day for something unrelated. I took it into my dealer to find out the check engine light issue (since I couldn't seem to pull the code up myself with the on/off/on/off/on trick). It turned out it was a sensor, which my warranty covered as well as the popping sound. I also asked them to look into the cool air blowing from the passenger side and then they brought up the sludge issue and how it was common with Chrysler cars - yet my Platnum warranty won't cover it. They said it would cost me $1600 labor to replace a bunch of parts in the radiator and other stuff and that wasn't even the cost of parts. I am expecting a $2000 job. I am not paying that for a car that now has 77,000 miles on it. If it was sludge causing this problem all along since at least winter 2014 (when I probably had 40-45,000 miles on it) then it isn't getting any worse as I haven't noticed any performance issues otherwise. I am going to keep driving it and monitoring gauges, performance etc and get a coolant flush.
 

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cold 200 owner

It is a faulty adapted box design on the back side of the 2.4liter cylinder head,if the engine is below 2,000 rpm the coolent does not circulate through the heater core.A axilary 12volt coolent pump on the return heater hose will correct this condition by pulling hot coolent through the heater core.
 

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That's good to know but most of the people posting with the problem don't have the 2.4 4cyl
 
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