Chrysler 200 Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So like many of others I’ve seen here and elsewhere online, my 2015 Chrysler 200 becomes unresponsive randomly while driving, parked, or wherever it wants to. It is totally random. The car will shift itself into neutral after blinking all of the service lights on the dash, along with service messages, always beginning with “service park brake.” Sometimes the car will tell itself that is in neutral, even though it is switched to park, and not allow me to turn it off. Other times, it will not start and the brake pedal becomes completely stiff. The engine will not turn over. If I let it sit a while, sometimes it starts back up, sometimes not and I have to have it towed to a dealership, where they initially told me that it was a poor battery connection and They just had to tighten the connectors. Obviously that wasn’t the answer because I have now had to bring the vehicle in 2 more times for the same issue, both times they said that all the codes that came up indicated that the power control module needed reconfigured. So that’s been done twice. The last time within 35 days. Until the other day I go to start my car after class and it is totally unresponsive, jumping it does not help, the Engine will not turn over. I tow it to the dealership. Now they’re trying to tell me that it’s the connectors on the battery again. Anyone having this issue, or find out what the actual solution was? This is just ridiculous
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Welcome to the forums. The EPB (electronic parking brake) module may have helpful stored fault codes. There is a software update for erratic parking brake operation:
http://www.wk2jeeps.com/Misc/Cherokee/KL_TSB/KL_08_038_16.pdf
Make sure that the PCM and other modules are at their latest revisions while the tool is connected.

Can they tell you what is wrong with the battery connectors (loose, corroded, damaged)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So after I asked for no continued testing because I didn’t want to pay $325 for them to clean the “corroded battery connectors,” (I am aware this can cause electrical issues with the car) I receive a message from my service tech saying the following:

“ we started doing more testing and found your battery has some kind of internal short in it causing the weird stuff to happen so he is now recommending a new battery instead of doing a service on it”

and recommended that I get a “better quality battery.”

so at this point I’m really questioning credibility here. Has the corrosion just disappeared all the sudden? We are going back to my “faulty battery” which was the INITIAL issue back in September of 2018, when I tested my battery it was fine. So today we are going down to clean the corrosion ourselves, if there is any, and replace connectors if necessary, and test the battery ourselves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
The original OEM batteries are JUNK....If you haven't replaced it do so now...
It can cause a myriad of electrical problems... It can/will test good but don't trust it...
I bought new one at Menards with the exact same size as the battery tray.. (larger than original OEM) with more cranking amps for under $120... Your "problems" will probably disappear...
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
......another crappy battery issue. def replace w a quality battery and clean the terminals. my terminals are original and are fine but theyre not the best design. change them if you want. i am on my 3rd battery. original lasted 2 years. i replaced w a spare used interstate i had in garage and it lasted 2 years. replaced w a new interstate last year and all good. lots of probs caused bye a weak battery w this car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
I agree that you should replace the battery, especially if it's still using the OEM one. This car starts doing weird things when the battery is nearing the end. My OEM battery lasted 3 years. I replaced it with an AutoZone Duralast and have been using that battery for a little over 2 years now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
My awd 200s wouldn't start with the key fob, dealer ordered a new one under warranty. Then it wouldn't remote start anymore, and finally it was totally dead after a sub-zero night. I jumped it with a charger and dropped it off at the dealership. Battery had a dead cell and nothing was really wrong with the key fob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Distribution Center (PDC) electrical connector that may cause intermittent power failures to certain electrical components.
So like many of others I’ve seen here and elsewhere online, my 2015 Chrysler 200 becomes unresponsive randomly while driving, parked, or wherever it wants to. It is totally random. The car will shift itself into neutral after blinking all of the service lights on the dash, along with service messages, always beginning with “service park brake.” Sometimes the car will tell itself that is in neutral, even though it is switched to park, and not allow me to turn it off. Other times, it will not start and the brake pedal becomes completely stiff. The engine will not turn over. If I let it sit a while, sometimes it starts back up, sometimes not and I have to have it towed to a dealership, where they initially told me that it was a poor battery connection and They just had to tighten the connectors. Obviously that wasn’t the answer because I have now had to bring the vehicle in 2 more times for the same issue, both times they said that all the codes that came up indicated that the power control module needed reconfigured. So that’s been done twice. The last time within 35 days. Until the other day I go to start my car after class and it is totally unresponsive, jumping it does not help, the Engine will not turn over. I tow it to the dealership. Now they’re trying to tell me that it’s the connectors on the battery again. Anyone having this issue, or find out what the actual solution was? This is just ridiculous
So like many of others I’ve seen here and elsewhere online, my 2015 Chrysler 200 becomes unresponsive randomly while driving, parked, or wherever it wants to. It is totally random. The car will shift itself into neutral after blinking all of the service lights on the dash, along with service messages, always beginning with “service park brake.” Sometimes the car will tell itself that is in neutral, even though it is switched to park, and not allow me to turn it off. Other times, it will not start and the brake pedal becomes completely stiff. The engine will not turn over. If I let it sit a while, sometimes it starts back up, sometimes not and I have to have it towed to a dealership, where they initially told me that it was a poor battery connection and They just had to tighten the connectors. Obviously that wasn’t the answer because I have now had to bring the vehicle in 2 more times for the same issue, both times they said that all the codes that came up indicated that the power control module needed reconfigured. So that’s been done twice. The last time within 35 days. Until the other day I go to start my car after class and it is totally unresponsive, jumping it does not help, the Engine will not turn over. I tow it to the dealership. Now they’re trying to tell me that it’s the connectors on the battery again. Anyone having this issue, or find out what the actual solution was? This is just ridiculous
Distribution Center (PDC) electrical connector that may cause intermittent power failures to certain electrical components. You get this recall done?
Also have them to change out the camshaft position sensor in bank 1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Walmart has a 5-year full replacement warranty battery, no pro rata warranty, but full replacement that costs $169. Great buy since the Mopar replacement has essentially no warranty and costs nearly $200.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top