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55w they will cook and die in a month or two, and why do you hate other drivers and want to blind them? Some drivers are a-holes but I think the majority of them are pretty swell!
 
Rule of thumb never go beyond 6000k unless you are a ponce. 5000 really but I can understand how some people like the more exotic look and they aren't TOO distracting. 7, 8, 9, even 10k is ridiculous though and asking to get pulled over.
 
Lol, glad you caught it beforehand, but also sorry to disappoint.
I realized and cancelled my order hardly five minutes after I placed it. I kept thinking "this is too good to be true." I tend to be right about that LOL.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Thanks but it ain't our fault cos they're not specific about the light type. Please if you end up finding anything regarding to HID headlights let me know. I don't wanna make same mistake again.

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Argh, stop trying to save 50 bucks and just buy from theretrofitsource.com

Seriously, these brands you're looking at will die in months, and often come with mismatched colours and flickering issues out the ass. It's not worth the relatively small amount of money you save. Morimoto is a quality brand and their stuff nowadays is almost on par with OEM. They're _the_ best aftermarket HID brand, period.

Now for sizes: H11 for fogs (I wouldn't bother, though. The entire point of fog lights is to help out in the fog. White/blue light is much worse than yellow light for penetrating fog...so yeah).
9012 for HIDs BUT 9006 is the more common size and it fits our cars just fine (that's the size of the HIDs I had installed!).

As for colour, you get the most lumens at 4300k. It's what most OEMs use (BMW, Mercedes, Mazda, etc). As you increase or decrease the colour (5000K+ or 3000K-), you lose lumens. And you lose them hard. If you look at a graph, the output just plummets. Any time you see some guy rocking 8000/10000K HIDs, feel free to laugh at them because they make less light than the lowest tier of low beam halogen bulbs, let alone our HIR2s (which is actually the highest tier for halogens).

Now for wattage...if you get 55w, prepare to inhale pure charcoal through your vents from that point on, because 55w turns our reflector bowls to a crisp in not a very long period of time at all. Always, ALWAYS go 35w. Again, it's what OEMs use, and it's safe to use with our projectors.

Next, for the harness, DO go with the MOPAR-specific harness with the capacitor. Our car's electrics like to screw with headlights a lot. The inconsistencies in wattage can and do cause a tiny amount of flickering occasionally unless you have your wiring done properly and with the right harness. What I actually plan on doing later on this summer is hook up the HIDs straight to the battery with a manual switch. I'm sick and tired of dealing with this CANBUS bs and you'll understand why pretty soon.

So:
God tier - 4300k, 35w
Meh tier - 6000k, 35w
JDM riceboy tier - 8000K+, 35w
Car Barbecue tier - xxxxK, 55w
 
So are TRS 4300 a pure white or is there still some yellow? I don't really care about bluish tint but I was thinking 5000 for the white. If the output between 4300 and 5000 is that drastically different, though..
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Thanks mKTank, now I understand how the HID system works. I was confused on the size that fits our car and what type of harness and brand to get. But this piece will guide me towards that. Because is confusing to see 1000's of brands and types if you don't have a clue of what you gonna get.

So for the Mopar hareness, is everything plug and play or you gonna need to wire/solder the capacitors?



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Thanks mKTank, now I understand how the HID system works. I was confused on the size that fits our car and what type of harness and brand to get. But this piece will guide me towards that. Because is confusing to see 1000's of brands and types if you don't have a clue of what you gonna get.

So for the Mopar hareness, is everything plug and play or you gonna need to wire/solder the capacitors?



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Plug and play, buddy. Only messing around you'll have to do is drill a dime to quarter sized hole in the cap covering the headlight connectors and bulbs. You then squeeze in a little rubber thing in the hole (all comes in the box) and that allows the wires to go through the cap while keeping moisture OUT. Make sure the seal isn't too loose. That's about it, really.
So are TRS 4300 a pure white or is there still some yellow? I don't really care about bluish tint but I was thinking 5000 for the white. If the output between 4300 and 5000 is that drastically different, though..
Whenever you see a luxury car rocking HIDs, 9/10 times it's 4300k. That's what it looks like and it's fairly blueish compared to all other kinds of lighting at night. It certainly sticks out as blue just as BMWs and Merc's do. But yeah it's very white with a slight tint of yellow compared to, say, the background of these forums.

Here:
Image

You can see how there's a clear brightness difference between 4300 and the ones below and above.
 
Just to add to the headlight discussion...I have a 2017 200 (9005) with Halogens and I've been not happy with the light output...so after doing all the research I went with NAPA Brilliance Halogens. Although I can't say I am seeing any farther on the low beams I am seeing better for the same distance, it's more clear and brighter. On the high beams I can't say I see a difference. The nice things about the NAPA's is that they come with a 3 year warranty.
 
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