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I'm getting heat blowing out of the driver's side vents, but not passenger side. Recently, I changed out a bad blend door actuator. When I installed it, I didn't put the new one in the exact right position (installed at the 11:00 position, then turned it to align with the mounting screws). Could that be the reason? Is there something else I should be looking for? Any recommendations are welcome.

BTW, I am not sure if this issue started before I changed the actuator or not, since it just started getting cold.

2011 Limited V6
 

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There are lots of similar complaints about this issue. Sadly, the most likely cause is a partially clogged heater core. It's a pretty big job to replace it and expensive if you take it to the dealer. If you do a search online for Chrysler heater core problem you'll probably see some threads about it. One recent thread had a picture of a clogged heater core cut open so you can see what happens.

Flushing the heater core is hard to do right but you could give it a try. The hard part isn't hooking up a rig to the heater core pipes, it's because of the internal design. The flush can flow through the core yet still bypass the area where it's clogged.

Chrysler changed coolant specifications in 2013 and if the newer style coolant was mixed with the earlier spec it might have been the cause for gelling and clogging.
 

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I just got off the phone with Chrysler about the same problem. Got a case number, but was told nothing they could do for me. 2011, with Penstar motor. Told them this was the last Chrysler I would ever own, known problem and they won't even go in on the labor if I bought the parts.
 

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Thanks, I was worried that was the problem. I did top up my coolant a couple years ago which said on the bottle it was compatible, but the heat stopped working last year. Took it to a local radiator shop and they did a coolant flush that helped, but they must not have gotten the clog out.
 

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I just got off the phone with Chrysler about the same problem. Got a case number, but was told nothing they could do for me. 2011, with Penstar motor. Told them this was the last Chrysler I would ever own, known problem and they won't even go in on the labor if I bought the parts.
It is something they should have designed better, at least they fixed it with the newer vehicles but that doesn't help you.

Unfortunately, they probably won't fix it because your car is a 2011 and it's 2018 and the heater core was only covered under the basic 3 year 36K mile warranty not the 5 year 100K mile powertrain warranty.

I assume you don't have an extended service contract with them, the only thing they might still be on the hook for are some emissions components because they are federally mandated in the US. 8 years 80,000 miles on the catalytic converter for example.

It might be a long shot because of the age of your vehicle, but you might be able to convince a dealer for a "goodwill" repair - have you used one particular dealer for maintenance and service?

Several years ago I had a coolant issue just out of basic warranty on my 13' 200 with the Pentastar (traded it for my 15' 200) and a local dealer fixed it out of warranty parts and labor no cost to me. A member on here that works for Chrysler helped me with the issue "Chrysler Cares". She private messaged me and I ended up talking to her on the phone and she called the dealer and arranged the repair for me but stated ultimately the cost if any was up to the dealer because it was a "goodwill" repair. If the dealer hadn't changed ownership not long after that, I would have bought my 15' from them.
 

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It is common for modern cars to have the actuators calibrated. You said you changed the actuator. You might want to check with the dealer and see if it is the case that the firmware needs updated/calibrated before going crazy on the internetz. Just saying....
 

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Thanks everyone for the tips. It turns out the problem was a clog in the heater core. I took it back to the radiator shop I went to last year. Last year, they did a coolant/radiator flush but did not backflush the heater core. They did a full coolant flush including the heater core this time and it's blowing nice and hot out of all vents now. The guy said that it's a common problem with a lot of Chrysler vehicles. If it's so common I'm not sure why they didn't do the heater core last year, but it's done now.
 

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Since this has been a common issue with Chryslers, am curious if this will become an issue on the 15 and newer 200's as well.
 

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Since this has been a common issue with Chryslers, am curious if this will become an issue on the 15 and newer 200's as well.
In my opinion only.
This is a problem due to the cross contamination of the different coolants. Either inadvertently or by choice thinking all coolants aren't any different.
 

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In my opinion only.
This is a problem due to the cross contamination of the different coolants. Either inadvertently or by choice thinking all coolants aren't any different.
Leftover sand in the castings for the heads on the Penstar motors. Same reason I still have an extended warranty on the heads.
 

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Leftover sand in the castings for the heads on the Penstar motors. Same reason I still have an extended warranty on the heads.
I've heard about that.
What I read is that affected 3.6 motors are for Jeep Wranglers, rear wheel drive vehicles.

As for an extended warranty on the cylinder heads of the 3.6 motors, that was only for 2011 though 2013 model years.
It also only affected the left side head ... only.
http://www.autonews.com/article/20140616/RETAIL05/306169945/chrysler-extends-warranty-on-some-2011-13-v-6s

I still believe the heater cores are clogged with a sludge from mixing different coolants. That is a known factor and a more probable cause for most consumers.
 

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I've heard about that.
What I read is that affected 3.6 motors are for Jeep Wranglers, rear wheel drive vehicles.

As for an extended warranty on the cylinder heads of the 3.6 motors, that was only for 2011 though 2013 model years.
It also only affected the left side head ... only.
http://www.autonews.com/article/20140616/RETAIL05/306169945/chrysler-extends-warranty-on-some-2011-13-v-6s

I still believe the heater cores are clogged with a sludge from mixing different coolants. That is a known factor and a more probable cause for most consumers.
I have a 2011, and you are correct about the left side only head. I bought the car with 18K on it and have never added any coolant.
The Modification on the head was to enlarge a oil passage that was clogged with with sand left in the head. Jeep boys filed a class action lawsuit.

Furthermore, say the plaintiffs, “[a]ll sand must be removed or destroyed during production of the cylinder head or other component engine parts will experience extensive problems. Specifically, any residual sand that remains from the sand-casting process in the engine can also improperly circulate through the vehicle’s cooling system and settle in the heater core, radiator, and oil cooling systems. The sand forms a sludge-like build-up in the bottom of the radiator reservoir that continues to accumulate until heating and cooling systems malfunction and fail.”

https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/lawsuit-news/820651-another-jeep-class-action-filed-defective-wrangler-radiator/
 

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So we finally had a day where we had below freezing temps. There was no heat on the passenger side. I bought an extended warranty when I bought the car and the extended warranty is still in effect. We took the car to our selling dealer because the extended warranty plan says it covers the heater core. My dealer called the warranty company and they declined coverage because the heater core is plugged. If it doesn't put out heat then I think it should be covered. My warranty plan also says that it wraps the manufactures warranty. It seems to me that if the manufacturer would cover this problem then the extended warranty should also cover. The dealer wants $1100 to replace the heater core. I was thinking that if the heater core is plugged then the radiator is also probably getting plugged. So much for having an extended warranty.
 

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I called my extended warranty company personally about my plugged heater core. They told me that the problem is common among Chryslers and was caused by casting sand from the engine. I've seen that kind of thing before on trucks but it was usually a small hose or something that got plugged. Anyway, without totally removing the heater core it would be hard to tell. I think the heater core may have a pin hole but the dealer said the only way to tell would be to completely remove it from the car and test it. In other words, customer pay. That sucks. I'll probably just do the repair myself.
 

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Utah driver.
You didn't mention if your extended warranty ( service contract ) is a Mopar / FCA branded policy.
If not, that's another heads up to people looking to buy these contracts. Many of them refuse to pay for covered repairs.

As for the repair that you may attempt. Like others have said, why not try to flush ( or reverse flush ) the heater core. Find a reputable radiator shop and they may be able to help.
 

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Decided to let the dealer replace my heater core. Running radiator flush through it for a couple of days didn't do anything and back flushing didn't work. I contemplated using a harsher cleaner but then decided against it. Here is a picture of my heater core that I cut open on my 13' 200. Only five years old and it was plugged almost solid. It was not a maintenance issue and I never mixed coolant. The goo inside felt like it had casting sand in it. The inside of the core has very tiny holes and basically acts like a coolant filter. I can pretty much bet that the radiator looks similar inside. I brought my own coolant to the dealer but they refused to use it. LOL. They said they had to install Mopar coolant for warranty purposes. I laughed. What warranty? If it plugs up again there isn't going to be any warranty. What a rip off. Anyway, I plan on draining the dealer's coolant in favor of something that I won't have to be worried about getting contaminated. Definitely don't want to pay the high price again. I can see on the old heater core where people have been able to un-crimp the pipes. It looks like it is kinda risky. If you have a leak you could end up with a car full of antifreeze. LOL. If you actually have something that would make a legitimate crimp then I would say go for it, but if you are using a pair of pliers then that would be kinda sketchy. Cheers.
 

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