Chrysler 200 Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to do a heater core back flush see if i can fix my little to no heat issue before i replace the core... there is a top and bottom fitting where it enters/exits the firewall normal flow when running.... which one is the in and which one is the out? so i can hook up to the correct one to BACK wash

Brandon
 

·
Administrator
2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
Joined
·
2,865 Posts
I couldn't find a 'coolant in/out' image for this. Flow would be from a high-pressure (from head, ahead of the thermostat) to a lower pressure (heater core return-water pump suction side).
The supply-side hose should feel warmer than the return-side hose.

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Slope

Font Number Rectangle Parallel Document

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Paper product

Font Parallel Engineering Automotive exterior Urban design
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
I flushed and back flushed my 2011 with no improvement so then I changed the core.

There are some online vids showing a shortcut that takes less than an hour to perform.

The original was so plugged even a high pressure washer couldn't clear it.

Thanks
Randy



.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I flushed and back flushed my 2011 with no improvement so then I changed the core.

There are some online vids showing a shortcut that takes less than an hour to perform.

The original was so plugged even a high pressure washer couldn't clear it.

Thanks
Randy



.
ya i pretty much see it as a shot in the dark but worth a try.... and yes i have seen the "cut the hard lines" short cutts....... that's the ONLY way id do it im NOT removing the whole dash!!!!!

i did a slight modification on the backflush....

1. i mixed in a bottle of the radiator chemical flush with the hot water
2. i set up a closed high pressure loop with a sump pump and a bucket and i plan to run it for 12+ hours all night, with the mix of water and cem flush.... 1st few hours it was like 115 degree water in the loop + the cem

trying to give it the best chances for success ill let u know it it works out or not
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ya i pretty much see it as a shot in the dark but worth a try.... and yes i have seen the "cut the hard lines" short cutts....... that's the ONLY way id do it im NOT removing the whole dash!!!!!

i did a slight modification on the backflush....

1. i mixed in a bottle of the radiator chemical flush with the hot water
2. i set up a closed high pressure loop with a sump pump and a bucket and i plan to run it for 12+ hours all night, with the mix of water and cem flush.... 1st few hours it was like 115 degree water in the loop + the cem

trying to give it the best chances for success ill let u know it it works out or not
so now i am even more confused then i originally was :( Someone on here told me awhile ago that coolant runs through the heater core regardless of weather the heat is selected on or not...im not so sure i believe that now here is why... (see attached pic) the small "return" ? line at the top of the reservoir has very hot coolant running through it when the car is up to temp if i feal some of the larger lines down in the engine cavity they feel barely warm to cold. Furthermore last night when i had the closed loop (bucket and sump pump) running with very hot water running through the loop i turned on the blower (key just on not engine running) and got fairly warm air out of the left 2 vents and warm air out of the passenger side middle one...almost none out of the passenger side door one. But now that the system is fully flushed...core and engine/radiator... i have just cold air out of all 4 vents when the engine is running and up to temp..... i one idea and one question....

1, buggiest one is does anyone have or can point me to a full diagram of the coolant loop(s)/ direction of flow for the 11-14 3.6 L there has to be multiple paths for coolant to take through the system (engine and heater core)

2, is a brain storm idea....Lets say i rig up that closed loop again and put some VERY hot 190-200 degree water in the loop and turn on the heat/blower again and i get hot air out of any/all of the vents and do not get even warm air out of any working normally that means hot coolant is not even flowing too the heater core? unless i am missing something here?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so now i am even more confused then i originally was :( Someone on here told me awhile ago that coolant runs through the heater core regardless of weather the heat is selected on or not...im not so sure i believe that now here is why... (see attached pic) the small "return" ? line at the top of the reservoir has very hot coolant running through it when the car is up to temp if i feal some of the larger lines down in the engine cavity they feel barely warm to cold. Furthermore last night when i had the closed loop (bucket and sump pump) running with very hot water running through the loop i turned on the blower (key just on not engine running) and got fairly warm air out of the left 2 vents and warm air out of the passenger side middle one...almost none out of the passenger side door one. But now that the system is fully flushed...core and engine/radiator... i have just cold air out of all 4 vents when the engine is running and up to temp..... i one idea and one question....

1, buggiest one is does anyone have or can point me to a full diagram of the coolant loop(s)/ direction of flow for the 11-14 3.6 L there has to be multiple paths for coolant to take through the system (engine and heater core)

2, is a brain storm idea....Lets say i rig up that closed loop again and put some VERY hot 190-200 degree water in the loop and turn on the heat/blower again and i get hot air out of any/all of the vents and do not get even warm air out of any working normally that means hot coolant is not even flowing too the heater core? unless i am missing something here?
Actually.... i may have been too quick to judge..... i think the "megga flush" may have helped...maybe there was just air trapped in the heater core or something cause later on this evening i actually drove the car and i had pretty good heat coming out of all of the vents....might not be as good as original but defiantly alot better than it was.....illl see how it goes over the next few weeks/months
 

·
Administrator
2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
Joined
·
2,865 Posts
This is the flow direction diagram from the service manual. It is a block diagram that I didn't think was easy to follow. #6 is a rear heater core found on some CUVs & minivans. Disregard it:
Rectangle Parallel Font Schematic Engineering
 
  • Like
Reactions: brandonoh777

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I am going to do a heater core back flush see if i can fix my little to no heat issue before i replace the core... there is a top and bottom fitting where it enters/exits the firewall normal flow when running.... which one is the in and which one is the out? so i can hook up to the correct one to BACK wash

Brandon
Hi, I've had 3 - (2011) 200's. Two have had the bad heater core. The coolant lines for the Heater Core are on the driver side of the engine under the air ducting for the intake. If you remove the air intake you can flush just the core ( if you are semi mechanically inclined and have extra heater hose and adapter s for a normal garden hose).(I have a fluid pump from Harbor Freight and flushed both ways with: 1. Radiator flush, 2. CLR, 3. Water 4. Air from a compressor. (No Luck) I've tried back flushing, and forward.(just the core). I had a mechanic use a special flushing tool with a connector to a compressor to do blast pulses of air and water. It improved a little. I finally got my dealer to cover it under an extended warranty on 2011 by 200S convert hardtop. You really need to replace the core to solve the issue. It should have been a recall.
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I couldn't find a 'coolant in/out' image for this. Flow would be from a high-pressure (from head, ahead of the thermostat) to a lower pressure (heater core return-water pump suction side).
The supply-side hose should feel warmer than the return-side hose.

View attachment 60981
View attachment 60982
View attachment 60983
View attachment 60984
The diagram is general. The problem is the lines in the 200 core are both at the top one under the other. (Not top and bottom as shown.(in the 2011-2014 200)
 

·
Administrator
2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
Joined
·
2,865 Posts
I watched the video above. Many heater cores share that same design.
I understand how deposits can accumulate at one end of the heater core, but those deposits shouldn't be there in the first place. Coolant should be pristine.
The scheduled maintenance interval for HOAT is 5 yrs/100K miles (160K km) for a coolant flush, but many of the core clogging issues happen before this service interval. OAT formulas claim a 10 year change interval.

Chrysler changed from HOAT to OAT antifreeze in 2013. Do not mix antifreeze types & use soft or distilled water for a 50/50 mix. There is no advantage of using straight antifreeze.
Engines, radiators & heater cores are all aluminum now. It is important to use an aluminum-friendly coolant. Do not use Dexcool in Chryslers. HOAT must meet Chrysler MS-9769 & OAT must meet Chrysler MS-12106. MS stands for 'material standard'.

I think that Chrysler may have gotten ahold of a batch of sub-standard (corrosive) antifreeze. It has happened before about 25 years ago.
Some bad antifreeze got used on the assembly line in Toluca and Chrysler initiated a voluntary 'Customer Satisfaction' recall #752.
It wasn't a safety/emissions recall, so NHTSA or EPA wasn't involved, but if you don't have sufficient heat to clear the front windshield, I could see a safety problem with this.
Font Number Screenshot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
MY "super flush" that i did a few weeks ago kinda worked but now later on its starting to get less and less heat. One last ditch effort i might try is a soak in white vinegar (just the core) or even a pumped loop through the core same way i did the pump powered chemical flush loop a few weeks ago. Not much to lose at this point cause a core replacement would be next :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Sorry to here. I was really bummed when it happened to me because I had an aftermarket warranty that wouldn't pay for it. My antifreeze was pure factory fill and had never had anything added. That was like 4 yrs ago. I filled it with the Prestone universal from autozone so there would never be any danger of mixing wrong types of antifreeze.
My theory is that the factory put some kind of sealant in the coolant system to alleviate any warranty payments from cold water leaks during shipping and when the car waits on the lot for initial sale.
Cheers
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top