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I have a 2011 V6 with 85000 miles on it and I am almost certain the heater core is clogged from researching online. I am having trouble reaching or even following the two heater core lines so I can just flush that part of the system. The radiator seems fine. The driver left vent is the hottest and the passenger right vent is flat out cold with heat cranked. I am almost certain it is the heater core form everything I have read. I would like to try to self flush it, in other cars I have seen it successfully unclogged with compressed air, but I really only want to disconnect the heater core and use its hoses and not mess with anything else, can anyone tell me where they are located.
 

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I'll pretty much guarantee its the core clogged.Just had this happen to the wifes 2012 as well.Its that **** gelling of the coolant from left over crap from machining the blocks at factory...I was told it turns almost like peanut butter...they did a flush of mine under warranty,instead of just changing the core,as parts are backordered,and its cold as ****.It worked to a degree,nopun intended,lol...we now actually have heat on the pass side,but its still not as good as the drivers side,so dealer has ordered the parts.
 

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literally just picked our 12' up from the radiator shop a few hours ago. Took it to dealer last week for tranny reflash/tire monitor that sheeot the bed, and they tested actuator on blend door and that was fine and he said 99% of the time they get these cars in with luke warm air on one side and cold on the other, the Chrysler coolant issue has finally caught up and clogged the heater core. Their fix at the stealership is just replacing radiator, oil cooler, and heater core then replacing fluid. I asked about just doing a coolant flush, "ahh, we don't even bother with that since every heater core we remove is clogged and unsalvageable, so we just replace all the parts". Just to have ONLY the heater core replaced was $1000 out of pocket ,called radiator shop and we tried a good flush for $70...and he quoted $650 to replace heater core if it comes to that. Cant waste my time DIY for that (flushing with materials, disposal, and more importantly time)...we'll see how long it lasts but tonight it was back normal.
 

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I did a flush of just the heater core myself and it actually wasn't that bad. It was definitely an experiment as I never attempted it before. I first flushed it with compressed air, then with water. At the time I did not drain the radiator at all. I did drain the reserve tank just because I undid the lines that run to the heater core. I will attach some pictures. I would say the heat on the passenger side is probably up to 75% efficient compared to no heat at all, so I can definitely live with it. I know it is probably not a long term fix, but even if I have to do it once a year, it is still better than dissembling the whole dash to access the heater core, or paying even 1000 to have it done. Now that I have done it once, I am sure I could do the whole heater core flush in less than 2 hours the next time.


I did flush it with the garden hose the last time and I just left that water in the system. So, when I was done with the heater core flush I did actually drain and refill the whole coolant system and replace the antifreeze after I was done since I know there was too much water in the system since I drained the heater core and reserve tank and replaced those fluids with only water.

When I flushed it I flushed it in reverse to try to break it up. I was unable to catch everything that came out to analyze, mostly because the in house(Which was my out since I was in reverse) was too short to put anything effective on it for catching, But the little I did catch had a lit of what looked like a hard water or calcium deposits in it. If it was Jelly anywhere I did not notice. I did that just before thanksgiving and have driven the car for about 10 days now and I am pleased with the level of heat thus far.

Getting some garden hose adapter that I believe were 5/8 inch male were bale to slip into the heater core hoses perfectly without leaking any water, you can see one still attached in the picture. Since it was only about 30 degrees in the garage I was trying not to make a watery mess. So I actually had a different hose connected to the the other heater core when I was actually doing it that went directly outside so when I flushed the system the flushed water went straight outside, and with the adapters I did not leak any water, even when the hose was at full pressure, I tried the pulse the water, I thought it would be more effective that way.

heater core hoses2.jpg
 

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Just giving a month update, so far so good with my take to radiator shop and $68 back flush job. Car is as hot as it ever was before we started having the heating issue. Guess in my mind I can see dealer taking the easy road by saying you have to replace everything, especially since they know zero is covered by warranty...mo money mo money for them.

But thus far, you should definitely try a back flush first
 

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LOL... At the dealer now for this issue. The twist to my story is that I did not have any issues to about 92k miles. Then I had the dealer do a fluid exchange and bam within 5 weeks cool at blowing out the passenger vent.
 

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Update:

Dealer says I have a bad heater core... Sound familiar? My cost $930....
Back home now so I can type more... To add insult to injury, I had to pay $43 friggin' dollars for the diag. I already told them the core was clogged!!!! I am just going to deal with it for now and trade it in later. Thinking about switching things up a bit. Was looking at the Chevy SS, Audi S4 or Infinity Q50.
 

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Can't they just disconnect the "in" and "out" lines to the heater core and manually flush it?

If you look at the receipt for the recent work, check to see if they included a part number for the coolant they used. Chrysler changed coolant specs between 2012 and 2013+ vehicles and the official Chrysler parts system warns against intermixing. If intermixed the coolants will form a gel.

Here is a link to the Chrysler tech document about the coolant issue. It's on page 4 in the table of contents and has a picture of what happens if they're mixed.

http://starparts.chrysler.com/newsletters/newsletter_Oct_2012.pdf
 

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Can't they just disconnect the "in" and "out" lines to the heater core and manually flush it?

If you look at the receipt for the recent work, check to see if they included a part number for the coolant they used. Chrysler changed coolant specs between 2012 and 2013+ vehicles and the official Chrysler parts system warns against intermixing. If intermixed the coolants will form a gel.

Here is a link to the Chrysler tech document about the coolant issue. It's on page 4 in the table of contents and has a picture of what happens if they're mixed.

http://starparts.chrysler.com/newsletters/newsletter_Oct_2012.pdf

I just verified on the service invoice... they stated that they used the correct HOAT fluid PN 68048953-AB. This really does chap my ass. I never had an issue until the flush. I spent $126 for a flush and then get slapped with a $930 bill to replace the heater core once it clogged. OUTSTANDING Chrysler.
 

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You could always try to manually flush it yourself like I did. See my earlier post, it is pretty easy, probably take about 2 hours. It is not that hard and will save you the $$$.
 

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You could always try to manually flush it yourself like I did. See my earlier post, it is pretty easy, probably take about 2 hours. It is not that hard and will save you the $$$.

Yeah, I have manually flushed previous vehicles in the past. My biggest concern is that I end up clogging more of the core flushing it again. I just dont want to take that chance right now since the temps by me are in the single digits. Honestly, it is not bad enough for me to mess with it right now. I think I will just deal with it until I sell the car.
 

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Hello from Bristol, Tennessee. My 2011 3.6 convertible with 85k has had the no passenger side heat issue for at least a year. I appreciate your commentary and am going to pursue a backflush before throwing big $ at the other options. Do you recommend a complete backflush of the entire system OR just of the heater core, itself?
 

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I'd do the heater core if the temp gauge has been in the normal range. I've never done one but I've seen pictures of a heater core that was stopped up for the right side heat and it had a gelled mass in one corner of the core.

I don't know if this would work but I'd take off both hoses and run some temporary lines into a 5 gallon bucket full of boiling hot water and radiator flush chemical. I'd let it run for a long time with a pump of some kind, maybe one of those ones you attach to an electric drill.

I suspect the cooling system in your car had 2 different types of coolant intermixed. The Mopar parts system specifically warned that this could cause gelling in a newsletter from the 2013 time frame when Chrysler changed the OEM coolant. Just a guess.

It's worth spending some time attempting to flush since changing out the heater core is such a big job.
 

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This problem is not from mixing 2 different types of coolant....it is a fault of chrysler(FCA),and should be covered under a factory extended warranty,just like the problem cylinder heads.

If you do a search on google with chrysler casting sand heater core,you will find it's not just 200's that are having problems with the core clogging up,there has been class action suits brought against them from wrangler owners with the same problem.Affects avengers,200,wranglers etc...everything the pentastar v6 was offered in unfortunately.There's a LOT of unhappy 11-13 v6 owners out there.Same years as they're extended warranty for the heads,as a small passage in the head would clog up with the same sand and cause warping,the head had the passage enlarged to help with this prob after '13.So chrysler is aware of the casting sand problem.

The wife's '12 200S had to have the radiator,heater core and cooler replaced due to no passenger side heat,but fortunately we had bought the extra warranty and it was replaced under that.

You people that are having trouble,I would really consider seeing a lawyer about a class action suit,this really should be covered as it really can be hazardous driving with the pass side of windshield covered.
 

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I have a 2011 V6 with 85000 miles on it and I am almost certain the heater core is clogged from researching online. I am having trouble reaching or even following the two heater core lines so I can just flush that part of the system. The radiator seems fine. The driver left vent is the hottest and the passenger right vent is flat out cold with heat cranked. I am almost certain it is the heater core form everything I have read. I would like to try to self flush it, in other cars I have seen it successfully unclogged with compressed air, but I really only want to disconnect the heater core and use its hoses and not mess with anything else, can anyone tell me where they are located.
Just got done with a complete flush, thermostat replacement and fresh antifreeze on my 2012 200S with 3.6L. Everything is sort of easy, which was a surprise and relief. A few parts have to be removed. The plastic panel under the radiator gives you access to the underside of radiator and drain on the passenger side of the radiator. Removing the engine air intake duct allows you access to the heater core lines.

I drained and refilled the radiator with distilled water several (6) times to make sure all the gunk was out. First two flushes I used Prestone radiator flush with distilled water and left it in for a couple of days.

Then back flushed the heater core. Remove the air duct, then you’ll have access to the flexible heater core lines where they onnect to the metal lines. Accessing them here is way easier than at the firewall. Disconnect both. The inlet is in front by the water pump, outlet in the rear. . Connect a 5/8” female hose coupling to the rear. I put a water hose shutoff here for control. Connect hose. Turn water on (go easy) and flush. I followed up by blowing the water out with compressed air, then filled with flush, reconnected lines and let sit for a couple of hours. Put air duct back in place.

Thermostat was easy, just make sure you get the one with the housing. Break hose loose, use a 10mm wrench on bottom bolt and socket or wrench on top.

Also, MAKE SURE you get the right antifreeze. Owners manual will tell you the correct stuff. Wrong stuff will turn into sludge. Mine uses GROAT antifreeze, which is supposed to last 100,000 miles. The only opinion I have on the antifreeze for all cars is it won’t last as long,

Total cost for all of the above was less than $100 and heat is great on driver and passenger sides.
 

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Thanks. Hope I don't need to do it but I'm glad to see someone was successful.

Here is a link to a vid showing what the inside of the Chrysler heater core looks like when it get stopped up.
 

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I have the same issue that never ends. Time to trade it in my 2011 for a BMW M4. 😁
 
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