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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After noticing no hot air on the passenger side today I did the heater core flush and it was successful. Recommend flushing in both directions and alternating back and forth and also use some compressed air in both directions. Kept getting small flakes then finally none. Also use hot water then cold water. Final purge was compressed air then topped off with the correct Mopar antifreeze. Previous unmarried owner was near Daytona Florida so may not have used the heat much and it was hot on the driver side. 2012 3.6 with 58000 miles. Hopefully this will last for a while.
 

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After noticing no hot air on the passenger side today I did the heater core flush and it was successful. Recommend flushing in both directions and alternating back and forth and also use some compressed air in both directions. Kept getting small flakes then finally none. Also use hot water then cold water. Final purge was compressed air then topped off with the correct Mopar antifreeze. Previous unmarried owner was near Daytona Florida so may not have used the heat much and it was hot on the driver side. 2012 3.6 with 58000 miles. Hopefully this will last for a while.
Why would a car this new need flushing it is because of what Chrysler put in the system from manufacturing. It is like bardol sold at canadian tire. I had dealer flush my 200 and ended up with a heater core leak. I changed it opened the one tank on core it was sludge that look like bardol.
 

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56996

This is a picture of me wiping my finger in the corner of the tank. It looks like you know what. No wonder these heater cores plug. This is after a dealer flush. You can change your heater core in a few hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes when it gets to that point I will replace the heater with the technique of cutting the pipes without removing the dash.
 

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Well that bad as you say it is from factory.new. Your core will already look like this off the dealer lot. Nothing to do will get that bad they are all like this. This is the Chrysler 200 issue.
 

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This is the Chrysler 200 issue.
...or was it a Chrysler 200 issue in 2012? What year is your Chrysler 200? Did you buy it brand new?

I haven't heard of anyone with a 2nd gen 200 with this issue. FWIW the 2 2013's I had and bought new, neither had this issue.
 

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Bought my 2011 200 convertible from Hertz with about 40k miles in 2013. Been a great vehicle and took it cross country when we relocated. My 2nd rental car. The previous one was a 2000 Sebring convertible that ran virtually trouble-free for 13 years. Had the similar heater core problem on the 200 and it just turned 103k miles. My private mechanic did the core flushing kabuki twice with minimal results. Car is now for sale since I‘m weary of the issue and am not about to spend a grand to have the core replaced. Ha e owned multiple vehicles in my 73 years and never had this annoyance. Chrysler should have fixed this on their dime. My last MoPar product.
 

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After noticing no hot air on the passenger side today I did the heater core flush and it was successful. Recommend flushing in both directions and alternating back and forth and also use some compressed air in both directions. Kept getting small flakes then finally none. Also use hot water then cold water. Final purge was compressed air then topped off with the correct Mopar antifreeze. Previous unmarried owner was near Daytona Florida so may not have used the heat much and it was hot on the driver side. 2012 3.6 with 58000 miles. Hopefully this will last for a while.
Trying to find somewhere to put the answer to why the heater doesn't blow hard on the passenger side. By mistake I found the problem nothing to do with the heater core, it's the interior cabin filter behind the glove compartment. If it's dirty or becomes damp driving through puddles, this is when the problem begins just take it out and the heat and air conditioning work great on both sides.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forums. The cabin air filter is often 'out of sight, out of mind'.
YouTube often has tutorials on how to change them for different models.
Lay newspaper down on the carpet to catch any 'surprises' that may dump out as you remove the filter.
Sometimes they are loaded with tree debris and other garbage. Sometimes they are clean.
The filter should not be wet. Driving through puddles should never reach the HVAC fresh air intake. There are cowl screens and drains that must be checked and kept clear, especially when parked around trees. Water intrusion and dampness can cause stale, nasty odors.
I would replace the filter instead of leaving it out. At work, I throw in a dryer sheet on top of the filter for a fresh smell.
There are Febreeze and HEPA filters available. A CAF keeps the interior noticeably cleaner as well.
 
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