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I have a 2015 200C 2.4L that came with stock halogens. This past February I purchased this HID conversion kit and had it installed by a place that specialized in aftermarket installations. I was incredibly happy with how the new HID's looked and everything had been working great until about 2 weeks ago. The left bulb failed and I began receiving a warning on the instrument cluster about the headlight being out. I contacted the company that I'd purchased the HID conversion kit from, and they sent me two brand new HID's.

Earlier today I took my car into Jiffy Lube and had them swap the new HID's in. They didn't have any issues putting the new bulbs in, but instead of having two working lights, neither one would light up and my instrument cluster still throws the warning about a bulb being out. I plugged in my OBD adapter and used AlfaOBD to check for error codes, and now it's throwing B162E (Right Low Beam Control Circuit Short) and B162A (Left Low Beam Control Circuit Short).

Should these replacement HID's have been plug and play, or is there something else I and Jiffy Lube are both missing to get them to work? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Short faults are not good. The BCM may have turned off the HID circuits in order to protect itself from over-current.
Did you actually measure a short at the HID lamps with a meter? See the 'Possible causes' in the fault explanations. It could be a pinched or rubbed-through wiring or an internal BCM problem instead.
Always diagnose first.
I don't know about the skill levels and service information resources at Jiffy Lube. This may need a more specialized shop or dealer to determine the fault cause?
 
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HID's are not really plug-and-play; there is additional wiring and electrical parts along with setting the appropriate headlamp option code in the car computer modules. There are different lenses used for halogens and hid for proper focus and beam pattern with the different light source in the bulb. Put the hid and halogen next to each other and note where the light source is. The halogen has a defined filament where the hid has a 'space' that glows. Are they in the same place with respect to the base of the bulb?

Who installed the first set of hid's? There was some modification needed for the ballast placement and new wiring. The wires need to be checked for rub-through.

If you disconnect the bulbs and clear the dtc's, does a new code appear? If you unplug the ballast and clear the dtc's, does a new code appear?

Seeing as you have an aftermarket setup, the jiffy lube dudes may not have known how to reconnect the bulbs and fubar'd the connections.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200s 2.4L
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One of your codes mention a short in the headlight circuit for one lamp...
That would blow a fuse for that circuit ( B162E (Right Low Beam Control Circuit Short)...

Now you reversed the bulbs/lamps and the defective lamp would blow a fuse for the left side lamp
(Your B162A code)

With both fuses blown (left/right) the replacement lamps would not work (left or right side)...
I am working with the presumption that the information you gave is correct...

I would start looking for blown fuses in both fuse boxes...
Just a suggestion of where to look...
Dave
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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There are no discrete headlamp fuses for the UF. Circuit protection and monitoring is all done by solid state drivers. If the current exceeds limits, the driver simply shuts off the circuit.
If intermittent, the protection may reset at the next key cycle.
The BCM can store (non-OBD) body fault codes and run circuit tests that may be useful in diagnosis. It just takes a more capable scan tool.
 

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Dude, go back to halogen. Like stated above, the bcm will not like any modification and adding hids or leds to it will cause problems. Not to mention the ridiculous cost of the bulbs and ballasts. I got some the highest quality sylvania bulbs for my 04 grand Cherokee and it lights up the roads twice as much as the standard bulbs. In my opinion, hids are totally unnecessary and a way for the manufacturers to sell absurdly expensive parts as the ballasts fail way too often. Stick with what the car is designed for, all of the light housings are designed to have the filament in a certain spot to project the light as designed, changing this is asking for trouble.
 
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