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This morning the 200 overheated on my wife 10 miles out of town. She pulled over and I met her with some radiator fluid. It had puked a little fluid so I topped it off but wasn't aware of the air bleed valve at the time. I drove it back to the house without any problems so I decided to drive it 15 miles to another town. Sure enough, about half way there, driving 70 mph, the temp gauge suddenly climbed from the normal half mark up to 3/4 and continued climbing. I dropped the speed down to 60 and and the temp can back down remarkably quick. After a minute I picked back up to 70. A few moments later the temp went back up. The way back home got even worse. Had to pull over and turn the heat on max to cool the engine, each time the temp returning to normal.
After fretting about major repairs I decided to pull off the thermostat after the engine cooled. Picked up a new one for about $20 at the local dealership and popped it back in and made sure to open the air bleed valve at the top of the thermostat housing as the engine warmed back up until only fluid came out. Did the same drive as a test and had no problems! The temp gauge stayed very steady at just under half mark where as before it would fluctuate slightly when not overheating.

So I just wanted to pass on this incident for others who may encounter intermittent overheating issues on the 3.6. I researched the Internet for an hour and couldn't find anything specific for the 2011 Chrysler 200. I wasn't even real sure where the thermostat was located. With all the talk of bad water pumps I am relieved it was such a simple and inexpensive repair.
 

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Good thing it was a cheap and easy fix. How many miles do you have?
 

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This morning the 200 overheated on my wife 10 miles out of town. She pulled over and I met her with some radiator fluid. It had puked a little fluid so I topped it off but wasn't aware of the air bleed valve at the time. I drove it back to the house without any problems so I decided to drive it 15 miles to another town. Sure enough, about half way there, driving 70 mph, the temp gauge suddenly climbed from the normal half mark up to 3/4 and continued climbing. I dropped the speed down to 60 and and the temp can back down remarkably quick. After a minute I picked back up to 70. A few moments later the temp went back up. The way back home got even worse. Had to pull over and turn the heat on max to cool the engine, each time the temp returning to normal.
After fretting about major repairs I decided to pull off the thermostat after the engine cooled. Picked up a new one for about $20 at the local dealership and popped it back in and made sure to open the air bleed valve at the top of the thermostat housing as the engine warmed back up until only fluid came out. Did the same drive as a test and had no problems! The temp gauge stayed very steady at just under half mark where as before it would fluctuate slightly when not overheating.

So I just wanted to pass on this incident for others who may encounter intermittent overheating issues on the 3.6. I researched the Internet for an hour and couldn't find anything specific for the 2011 Chrysler 200. I wasn't even real sure where the thermostat was located. With all the talk of bad water pumps I am relieved it was such a simple and inexpensive repair.
Part of the reason I just had my radiator flushed is because I had been noticing the temp gauge was rising and falling coinciding with the temp outside and rpm's. I chalked it up to 4 year old coolant. I too have a 2011 with a 3.6l and 90k miles. I have to say the temp gauge is rock solid again and seems to be running a tad bit cooler than I am used to seeing. I did not however have the thermostat changed....
 

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Make sure you use the correct coolant/anti-freeze,2011/12s take a HOAT coolant & 2013+ take a OAT coolant.Do not mix them,if you do you need to flush your system.
 

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I'm glad you bought the thermostat at the dealer since it's widely believed that other brands have widely different specs and there's a lot of horror stories about those failing thermostats. In fact when I was younger I used a non-oem brand that was "guaranteed to never stick open", guess what - the damnn thing stuck Closed on me lol and caused some damage since I drove it a few minutes too far.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE - Still overheating. So I'm back to square one. Next step is to get the system flushed. Since the temp is fluctuating between hot and warm I think there could be a blockage. Another strange thing... I turn the heat on max to help dissapate the heat but at times it blows non-hot air and then may go back to hot air after a few moments.

I do get a chime and a hot water indicator on the instrument panel when it gets hot. The car has 50,000 miles on the clock.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Final Update (I hope) - took the 200 to a shop for a coolant flush. The guy advised me to let him first pressurize the system and check for leaks. I agreed. Sure enough, he found that the radiator cap was not sealing properly. Apparently, as the engine heats the coolant, it will begin to seep out from the cap. This will eventually cause low fluid conditions and will result in airlock preventing proper circulation.
so with a new radiator cap, the coolant topped off, and the system bled for air, the technician drove the car for at least 30 minutes without seeing any rise in temperature. I then drove it 40 minutes home on the interstate at 75 miles an hour and the engine never got above the normal halfway mark.
All this time, it was something so simple. So all you out there that have vehicles that have been on the road for a few years, you might want to replace this inexpensive part before it fails.
 

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Glad you go it sorted out. To be safe, I replace the WHOLE CAR after 4-5 years lol
 

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Thanks for these posts. I had the exact same experience as BigCypress last night. I was driving 70-80 mph and it overheated, and was blowing cold air into the cabin. I added 4 L's to the car, let the car sit for 30 mins and everything seems fine. But I will get it pressure tested and change the fluid.
 

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After a pressure test Kingston Dodge found a bad gasket on the thermostat housing air bleeder screw. Caught just in time before our warrantee expires.
 

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I have the overheating issue as well, the dealership already changed the thermostat, and the issue is still there

 

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I had the same issue it took two separate service appointments before they found it I had to take a video of how it was overheating to the service dept lead. It ended up being a bent thermostat they flushed systeam and put the new purple antifreeze in replaced the orange. No problems since
 

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Update on overheats:
1 - Dec 15/14 - air release on thermostat housing - replaced thermostat housing (as posted above)
2 - Dec 26/16 - pressure testing by Precision Auto in Columbus South Carolina - they could not find leak - they assumed it was the thermostat - replaced thermostat and housing gasket $330 US Funds
3 - Jan 3/17 - pressure tested by myself in Davenport Flordia, borrowed tester from Advanced Auto Parts. Rad Cap failed. Replaced Rad Cap. Cost $5, plus another flush and fill with OATS Fluid due to the fact that I had to add water to get off the side of the road.

Here is the $330 question. Was the rad cap tested by Precision Auto in SC? I called them and asked if they pressure tested the rad cap, they say they did. Moral of the story, borrow a pressure tester from a parts store and test it yourself. They are easy to use, and there are many youtube videos to tell you how to do it. The other moral would be bring it straight to a Dodge Dealer.

You can see from my profile that I am from Kingston ON Canada, 1400 miles from Flordia. I am going to for hour long drive tomorrow to make sure the car does not overheat again.

We are travelling home Tuesday I will be travelling with a jug of Mopar OATS coolant. The leak has always been slow. Previous to overheat 2 and 3 I could hear air in the coolant system. If you practice prayer, please pray that are cooling issues are solved.

I'll post an update next week. The car still only has 62000 miles on it, or in Canadian speak 100,000 km. Seems like premature failures, very frustrating,, makes me dream of trading it in but I want to pay for it first,,, fall of 2018 she will be paid for.

FullSizeRender.jpg IMG_8558.JPG
 

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Drove all of the 1400 miles home, coolant level remained where it should - issue resolved! :)
 

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I had the same issue. I changed the thermostat and opened up the air bleed valve, everything was fine after that. Couple weeks down the line and my car is still overheating if i go over 70 mph. I had to take it to my mechanic to see if the fans are bad or if it's a leak somewhere.
 
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