[channelplus]

Hey guys,
anybody know where is location of Keyless Entry Control Module Receiver for 200 2016?
Best

 

[ggoose]

It is under the rear parcel panel behind the back seat. This link will get you to the download for the install procedure for remote start which uses the same receiver as the keyless entry.

How to Get Remote Start

Hi, I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 Limited and have a question about it. I wanted to know if I purchase an OEM key with remote start on it and program the key to my car will that give my car remote start? I only have the original key which does not have the remote start option on it. However I did...

www.200forums.com

Why do you ask?

 

[channelplus]

It is under the rear parcel panel behind the back seat. This link will get you to the download for the install procedure for remote start which uses the same receiver as the keyless entry.

How to Get Remote Start

Hi, I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 Limited and have a question about it. I wanted to know if I purchase an OEM key with remote start on it and program the key to my car will that give my car remote start? I only have the original key which does not have the remote start option on it. However I did...

www.200forums.com

Why do you ask?

Thanks so much, bought the 2016 unknow mileage not runinng, no any light on dash, instruments, interior or out. with jumper also,... found out there are many rust and corrosions on the wire ports, replaced engine fuse box, instrument, the white body control module, main push botton switch , brake pedal switch, can buss , cleaned many ports as i saw. now i all lights outside and interiors are working, instrument blue lights and main LCD is working, ( no any engine lights, no any battery, water temp,... lighst on) when i use the fot its asking push the brake pedal , i do and have beeb beeb, no any other notification. still the engine is not crank / run. no lights on climate control, gearshift. body of the stereo is hot and no light on LCD. i took it to dealer they charged me hour and said no! we don't know! but they gave print out of the codes they read: B210D-16 , u0010-00 , C2100-16, C006C-9A, B2199-16, C10CD-01, U0452-00, U04502-00, U0129-00, U0151-00, U-0140-00, U0100-00 ,but all these codes was before i swap items. also now and before my scanners could not establish connection . appreciated for your time. best

 

[channelplus]

and do you know where is MODULE. TRANSFER CASE CONTROL.?

 

[200_S_AWD]

Welcome to the forum. Was this vehicle recovered from a flood or submerged in water?
The 'U' codes are bus communication codes between the modules on the network (a good place to start). 'B' codes are body & 'C' codes are chassis.
I could not find any reference to C006C-9A or C04502-00

Swapping of a BCM from a donor may cause problems. The BCM is the gateway and carries the identity of the donor. These modules are VIN dependent and may not play well in an 'alien' environment.
What are you using for a scan tool? Do you have the factory service manual (strongly recommended)?

See the 'Possible Causes' for each of the fault codes and try to determine what they may have in common with each-other. Any shared 'causes', either in a circuit or component should be corrected first.
A lot of lost communication & low voltage fault codes. Were they erased and came back? This erasure may be important as some of these codes may be 'stored' and not necessarily present at this time (active fault codes).
If the car was running or the ignition was on when it hit the water, the cathodic erosion of the powered circuits may be extensive. As long as the car sat wet and the battery held some charge, the circuits may have 'eaten' themselves.

(Cathodic corrosion is an electrochemical process where two metals are placed in an electrolyte and one of the metals corrodes. Corrosion continues as long as the electric contact is maintained, since the electrons continue to flow to the cathode.)

Years ago, I was given a Neon that fell into Braddock bay. It was on a pier and the driver stepped out of the car while it was in gear. It was running and a full immersion.
I had to replace the engine, interior and a lot of electrical. That car served me well for 7 years.

I can only post 10 attachments per post. So this is continued below. ↴

 

[200_S_AWD]

The t/case module sits on top of the unit:

 

[channelplus]

Thanks so much, bought the 2016 unknow mileage not runinng, no any light on dash, instruments, interior or out. with jumper also,... found out there are many rust and corrosions on the wire ports, replaced engine fuse box, instrument, the white body control module, main push botton switch , brake pedal switch, can buss , cleaned many ports as i saw. now i all lights outside and interiors are working, instrument blue lights and main LCD is working, ( no any engine lights, no any battery, water temp,... lighst on) when i use the fot its asking push the brake pedal , i do and have beeb beeb, no any other notification. still the engine is not crank / run. no lights on climate control, gearshift. body of the stereo is hot and no light on LCD. i took it to dealer they charged me hour and said no! we don't know! but they gave print out of the codes they read: B210D-16 , u0010-00 , C2100-16, C006C-9A, B2199-16, C10CD-01, U0452-00, U04502-00, U0129-00, U0151-00, U-0140-00, U0100-00 ,but all these codes was before i swap items. also now and before my scanners could not establish connection . appreciated for your time. best

Thanks again. Yes the car had fluid accident apparently from left front area . Tnx for the BCM notification. I opened the swapped one and see one pin is missing on new one also not sure if part numbers are same. The part number 68273253ac from mopar dose not have 4 pin in back but mine has 4 pin even its same part number . All used on ebay same , no 4 pin at all!
I don’t have service manual, would you send me link to buy, pdf please . I tried different small scanners also Autel 906 but all not recognize it ! Non cannot recognize the car but when I took it to dealer they did .

 

[200_S_AWD]

Let's begin with a service manual. TechAuthority is the authorized Chrysler publication supplier. These paperback Haynes & Chiltons manuals are useless for this kind of job. The brand new manuals are expensive (think of it as a must-have tool cost), but used TA discs can usually be found for sale on ebay, etc. You will need Internet Explorer to open the disc. Make sure that it is the authentic TA disc. There are pirated & counterfeits out there that may be incomplete.

As far as scan tools, the dealer WiTech2 has the most capability, but the cost is prohibitive. The Alfa-OBD ELM327 tool has many capabilities & may be all you need.

AlfaOBD

Electrically, everything has to be working first. The BCM will need to be programmed to the car's VIN. If the replacement BCM is missing a connector, I wonder why it has the same part number? Only 2 BCMs are listed depending on headlamp type. LMA = halogen. LMP = HID.
The software VIN programming will tailor it to your car & options (this may be a dealer-only service).

 

[channelplus]

Let's begin with a service manual. TechAuthority is the authorized Chrysler publication supplier. These paperback Haynes & Chiltons manuals are useless for this kind of job. The brand new manuals are expensive (think of it as a must-have tool cost), but used TA discs can usually be found for sale on ebay, etc. You will need Internet Explorer to open the disc. Make sure that it is the authentic TA disc. There are pirated & counterfeits out there that may be incomplete.
View attachment 59496
As far as scan tools, the dealer WiTech2 has the most capability, but the cost is prohibitive. The Alfa-OBD ELM327 tool has many capabilities & may be all you need.

AlfaOBD

Electrically, everything has to be working first. The BCM will need to be programmed to the car's VIN. If the replacement BCM is missing a connector, I wonder why it has the same part number? Only 2 BCMs are listed depending on headlamp type. LMA = halogen. LMP = HID.
The software VIN programming will tailor it to your car & options (this may be a dealer-only service).
View attachment 59497

View attachment 59498

View attachment 59500

Thanks again. Got the service manual but not that much infos. got some more experience with pick&pull cars! still ordinary scanners cannot communicate with obd2 . changed the can bus back of the driver seat too. fob is recognizing, openning closing doors but still i dont have full dash lights / any cranking

 

[200_S_AWD]

Ordinary code readers are OBD2. Engine codes are the most common need. The auto industry had to standardize emission codes for the EPA, for state testing and inspections, etc.
Geartrain & body codes are less urgent than emissions and aren't really standardized. Manufacturers are free to keep access to these codes proprietary for 'their' dealer tool. Few tool suppliers (Snap-on, Alfa-OBD, etc) offer access to these other module codes and the tools can be much more expensive.

At this point, it may be worth a paying a 'diagnostic fee' at a dealership service dept or a capable shop to read & report the fault codes for you. It only makes sense to buy an expensive scan tool if you are in the auto repair business and use it often.

Assuming there are DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes), the DTC-based test section is in the manual. Non-DTC-based tests have a section as well. Many tests mention using the scan tool (WiTech2), but if you understand what they are testing for, an ordinary digital volt-ohmmeter usually will get you the answer.
The DTC-based tests usually include a local wiring diagram, wire colors, pinouts, Possible Causes and tests to be done in order.

If things get more complex and require software changes, enter module codes, etc, you may have to let the dealer do that.

At least you will know what has to be done and understand the car a bit more. Knowing what has to be done will help you explain to the service desk what you want. This can save time, money and frustration.