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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last night while driving home (never had this issue before) all the interior lights on the cluster & radio started flickering and then would completely shut off then come back on. When I got off the freeway and started taking side streets back home, we came up to a red light. The car then completely shut off. It was locked in drive and I couldn't turn the dial to put it in neutral to get out of the street, it was completely locked. All lights were on, interior lights, the overhead lights and the car even recongnized my fob and wanted me to hit the brake then restart it. I tried but nothing.

I let it sit for about 5 minutes then it restarted up. Drove it home with no issues (around 25 miles)

On my way to work this morning (about a 20 mile commute) the cluster lights blinked once then shut off again, car didn't shut off but when I got off the freeway and started driving slower speeds, it was completely fine again. I haven't done any tests yet, the voltage according to the car seemed to be around 14.0 the entire drive, bounced around a bit between 13.7 and 14.2 but nothing drastic.

Can somebody please help me out? Would hate for this to turn into a larger issue, was hoping somebody else has encountered this problem.
 

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Last night while driving home (never had this issue before) all the interior lights on the cluster & radio started flickering and then would completely shut off then come back on. When I got off the freeway and started taking side streets back home, we came up to a red light. The car then completely shut off. It was locked in drive and I couldn't turn the dial to put it in neutral to get out of the street, it was completely locked. All lights were on, interior lights, the overhead lights and the car even recongnized my fob and wanted me to hit the brake then restart it. I tried but nothing.

I let it sit for about 5 minutes then it restarted up. Drove it home with no issues (around 25 miles)

On my way to work this morning (about a 20 mile commute) the cluster lights blinked once then shut off again, car didn't shut off but when I got off the freeway and started driving slower speeds, it was completely fine again. I haven't done any tests yet, the voltage according to the car seemed to be around 14.0 the entire drive, bounced around a bit between 13.7 and 14.2 but nothing drastic.

Can somebody please help me out? Would hate for this to turn into a larger issue, was hoping somebody else has encountered this problem.
Welcome to the forum tj3245 !
Please fill out the profile section so we know what you drive, year, model and engine.

Now I am sure you'll dismiss this suggestion, but too many of us have learned the hard way. These cars eat batteries for lunch. Completely normal for this day and age. So many electronics that the system needs full operating power at all times.
The battery may be the cause.
If it hasn't been replaced on a 2015 or 2016 vehicle, then I suggest that first.
Make sure all battery connections are tight and clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I definitely won't dismiss any help and I greatly appreciate the timely response. I updated my information to maybe help with anyone else who has the same model, 2015 Chrysler 200S with a 2.4L.

Is there anyway it could be the alternator? It seems like it has a tougher time at higher speeds, but, I will definitely get both tested after work today. Was just hoping it wasn't a larger issue.
 

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Many of us had similar issues. Replace the battery while you still can, before being stranded somewhere. In my case, my battery had a dead cell due to the loose battery connections.
 

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I definitely won't dismiss any help and I greatly appreciate the timely response. I updated my information to maybe help with anyone else who has the same model, 2015 Chrysler 200S with a 2.4L.

Is there anyway it could be the alternator? It seems like it has a tougher time at higher speeds, but, I will definitely get both tested after work today. Was just hoping it wasn't a larger issue.
Thanks for the additional info !

You have the same, year, model and engine we have.
So as the story goes, last year my wife drove to work, sat in her car with the windows down and listened to the radio for a short time. Upon attempting to start the car, the dash lights flickered, the service transmission message appeared, the windows wouldn't go up and of course, the car wouldn't start.
I took a fresh fully charged battery to where she was and replaced it in the parking lot.
Problem solved.

If that's the original battery in your car. You've been running on borrowed time.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. A 2015?
Double-check battery terminals for cleanness and tightness. Not just from the outside, take them right off the posts and wire brush the contact areas. It is rare, but even new batteries can begin to fail.

All this weird electrical malfunction is probably due to a single failure. The trick is going to be finding this failure point.
Your best way to prove what the problem is, is to go in a diagnose this while the malfunction is present and active.
'Intermittent' electrical problems can require patience and careful thought.

Check the underhood wiring, starting at the battery and moving to the distribution/fuse/relay box connectors. Gentle wiggling and poking around may provoke a 'bad' connection to reconnect and things will begin working OK.
If the system is working and you can't get to 'act-up', sometimes this gentle wiggling and poking around will cause the malfunction to occur. You want to find the 'sweet spot'.

The factory has read the reports of these weird electrical malfunctions and tries to alert the Chrysler technicians about them. This 'tribal knowledge' gives technicians places to look for trouble. It can save time and increase customer satisfaction.

Look for loose connections and grounds, corroded terminals, rub-throughs and anything that looks suspicious. Push down on all the fuses and relays to make sure that they are securely connected. Make sure that connectors are latched and there is no broken plastic.

Modules can store fault codes that can help to diagnose and corner a culprit. Engine OBD2 code readers may not be much help when reading body fault codes. You may need an advanced, capable scan tool for body codes. See what you can find on your own.
Be a detective!

Unseen corrosion between battery post and terminal:
Product Automotive tire Font Electrical wiring Automotive lighting


Wire harness rub-through:
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Auto mechanic



Loose connector:
Automotive lighting Sleeve Font Automotive tire Screenshot



Loose fuse:
Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Design


Loose Ground G905A:
Rectangle Font Screenshot Software Slope


Map Rectangle World Font Urban design
 

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I just replaced the battery in my car in April of 2021. I'm having this issue as I'm writing this response.
I have had this issue before and it can be fixed sometimes by just getting an oil change. A type of safety these vehicles have to avoid engine damage.
 
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