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Also, kind of related to updates, anyone ever did and engine/trans software update(s) at the dealership, how much, can they look it up just by using the VIN #?
You can check HERE for available Uconnect updates for your vehicle.

You can check HERE for any outstanding recalls.

With regards to transmission updates I believe you should discuss this with your dealer.
 

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Well, after talking with some members in here and reading the latest posts I broke down and ordered mine yesterday. I still think it is highway robbery to charge this amount for an update. But, what can you do.
 

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Well, after talking with some members in here and reading the latest posts I broke down and ordered mine yesterday.

Good choice. As others have stated...it will take a while. Fern stated around 90 minutes and I'd say mine was probably closer to 2 hours total. I do have the RA4 HU version, so not sure if that makes a difference or not.
 

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Good choice. As others have stated...it will take a while. Fern stated around 90 minutes and I'd say mine was probably closer to 2 hours total. I do have the RA4 HU version, so not sure if that makes a difference or not.
Both "Fern' and I have the RA3 system.
 

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Good choice. As others have stated...it will take a while. Fern stated around 90 minutes and I'd say mine was probably closer to 2 hours total. I do have the RA4 HU version, so not sure if that makes a difference or not.
Yeap 2 hours here too from when I started entering the information required on the website to when it was all set and done but around 90 minutes of actual update. I don't think RA3 vs RA4 is a lot different in terms of map updates. Maybe the RA4 gets a little more given it supports 3D view.
 

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Posting this experience for others to beware and learn from my "mistakes".

I completed the update yesterday. Had a frustrating experience over two days before I succeeded. This was for two reasons.

1. Under the System Information screen where the Activation Code Generation Instructions tell you to look for and write down Software Version there is also a Request Code. I wrote this down too and failed to notice that a different Request Code pops up after the update USB drive is plugged in. So when I went to the web site to generate an Activation code I actually used the incorrect Request Code. Despite the code being incorrect, the web site software still created an Activation Code. The problem was that every time I tried to activate I would get a popup message: Incorrect Code - Please Try Again. After many, many attempts and much time on the phone with HERE customer support I finally got elevated to someone who understood the problem. The first line customer service agents had not been briefed on this issue and it was very frustrating trying to work with them. Anyway a new Activation Code had to be generated which solved the problem. The senior support person I spoke with said that the software engineers are working to figure out how to prevent creation of non-working Activation Codes. Obviously the process as is needs to either eliminate the displaying of two different Request Codes (in the exact same format BTW) on the UConnect head unit or at least prevent the wrong one from being used to create a bad Activation Code.

2. Having to run/fuel an engine for two hours, just to install a software grade simply goes against my sense of how things ought to work. So I attempted the update with a battery charger connected and the engine not started. This worked in the past for UConnect software version updates. Unfortunately, it does not work for this data update (or at least not at all easily). During the update process, with the engine not running, the ignition shuts off automatically (maybe 20 minutes in). The UConnect screen remains lit and the data update continues through "Unit 1" and "Unit 2", but alarmingly halts near the end of the final "Unit 3". Turning the ignition back to Run at this point will restart the loading of "Unit 3", however the ignition will still turn off by itself, and the installation will halt again before completion. After two failed reattempts like this I had to experiment, and fortunately found that after each auto shut-off I could still reset the ignition to Run, and, by doing so two or three times, could get the installation to finally complete!

Bottom-line. Very frustrating hassles, created admittedly mostly by me for not following the instructions to the letter. Still, it's pretty difficult after this experience to be positive about an installation procedure that isn't engineered to be more fault tolerant than this one.
 

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Posting this experience for others to beware and learn from my "mistakes".

I completed the update yesterday. Had a frustrating experience over two days before I succeeded. This was for two reasons.

1. Under the System Information screen where the Activation Code Generation Instructions tell you to look for and write down Software Version there is also a Request Code. I wrote this down too and failed to notice that a different Request Code pops up after the update USB drive is plugged in. So when I went to the web site to generate an Activation code I actually used the incorrect Request Code. Despite the code being incorrect, the web site software still created an Activation Code. The problem was that every time I tried to activate I would get a popup message: Incorrect Code - Please Try Again. After many, many attempts and much time on the phone with HERE customer support I finally got elevated to someone who understood the problem. The first line customer service agents had not been briefed on this issue and it was very frustrating trying to work with them. Anyway a new Activation Code had to be generated which solved the problem. The senior support person I spoke with said that the software engineers are working to figure out how to prevent creation of non-working Activation Codes. Obviously the process as is needs to either eliminate the displaying of two different Request Codes (in the exact same format BTW) on the UConnect head unit or at least prevent the wrong one from being used to create a bad Activation Code.

2. Having to run/fuel an engine for two hours, just to install a software grade simply goes against my sense of how things ought to work. So I attempted the update with a battery charger connected and the engine not started. This worked in the past for UConnect software version updates. Unfortunately, it does not work for this data update (or at least not at all easily). During the update process, with the engine not running, the ignition shuts off automatically (maybe 20 minutes in). The UConnect screen remains lit and the data update continues through "Unit 1" and "Unit 2", but alarmingly halts near the end of the final "Unit 3". Turning the ignition back to Run at this point will restart the loading of "Unit 3", however the ignition will still turn off by itself, and the installation will halt again before completion. After two failed reattempts like this I had to experiment, and fortunately found that after each auto shut-off I could still reset the ignition to Run, and, by doing so two or three times, could get the installation to finally complete!

Bottom-line. Very frustrating hassles, created admittedly mostly by me for not following the instructions to the letter. Still, it's pretty difficult after this experience to be positive about an installation procedure that isn't engineered to be more fault tolerant than this one.
Holy crap! Your experience, is exactly what i went through!!!!!! I mistakenly used the wrong request code as well. I think I went through about 5 different people, with HERE, Chrysler, uconnect. I was jumped around so much. The 2nd to last guy i talked to, told me i need a "dealer activation" code. I told him, no that is not what i need!! I asked to talk to a supervisor, and he hung up on me.

So I ended up calling the first number i tried, and got the nicest lady on the phone who actually listened to what was happening. She is the one that made me realize my own mistake, that i used the wrong request code. However, she was not able to give me new activation code. So she had me do an RMA and send back the USB drive, and they will ship out new one since i could no longer activate the old usb, because it said the serial number reached its limit.

Lucky you were able to get them to generate a new code for you.
 

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Map update is not worth it for me, nowhere near me is so new that the old map won't see, and if I need to go somewhere not listed, I'll use Google maps and use the car Nav to get as close as possible to it then finish off the trip with Google maps. I would consider the update if the map wasn't already a year old, didn't take 90 minutes of running the engine while installing and didn't cost $150, should be $50, it's not the old days when nobody had smart phones with maps and gps and had to rely on the car navigation system to go somewhere.
 

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Holy crap! Your experience, is exactly what i went through!!!!!! I mistakenly used the wrong request code as well. I think I went through about 5 different people, with HERE, Chrysler, uconnect. I was jumped around so much. The 2nd to last guy i talked to, told me i need a "dealer activation" code. I told him, no that is not what i need!! I asked to talk to a supervisor, and he hung up on me.

So I ended up calling the first number i tried, and got the nicest lady on the phone who actually listened to what was happening. She is the one that made me realize my own mistake, that i used the wrong request code. However, she was not able to give me new activation code. So she had me do an RMA and send back the USB drive, and they will ship out new one since i could no longer activate the old usb, because it said the serial number reached its limit.

Lucky you were able to get them to generate a new code for you.
First HERE "agent" I spoke with also hung up on me. After about ten minutes of trying to get him to even understand the problem, all I said was, "It doesn't sound like you'll be able to help me. Can you give me an email address to send photos of my codes and screens to someone how knows how to troubleshoot this?" CLICK

(BTW I did email HERE from the FCA/HERE update website "Contact Us" feature on Wednesday, and still haven't received a response.)

Gal I spoke with the next day was a good bit better, ran through her Q&A script, then stepped away and asked her superior what to do, then transferred me to a senior support guy. (Lots or time on hold in between both times but at least apologetic about it.) I suspect the senior guy was actually an engineer. Sounded intelligent anyway. Very patient and polite. He agreed that the Request Code confusion taking place was completely understandable under the circumstances, and said they would soon be training "some" 1st tier agents to deal with this. (However, didn't say whether they would be trained to reissue Activation Codes.) Did explain that this particular update process was very new, and differed a lot from that for previous units.

So, yes, turned out I was a good bit "luckier" than you. :) Still Activation Code issue chewed up a several more hours in total.

Told my wife afterwards, "I wonder what the dealer would have charged to do this update? Whatever, it would have been worth it!"
 

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{Edit} Suspect that they may not train support agents to reissue Activation Codes. More cost effective - for them - to process the RMAs. {/Edit}
 

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I did my installation on Thursday. The only doubts i had was when it reached the 87% mark of unit 3 it seemed to be stalled on there for a long time. So much so that I was having thoughts of stopping and starting all over again. Also what didn't help was that I ran the engine for the 90m install which is fine by me but the only thing was that it warns you at the start that some systems would not function during the installation ... one of which was the AC. It was kinda warm here on Thursday and with the windows down allowed a wasp or two to have a look inside my car. It got a little uncomfortable at times. Anyway, it's done.
 

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What is stopping me from going ahead and doing this update is the installation time. I cannot imagine having to let my car sit and run for 90 mins to do this. That is just crazy. I can live with the cost of the update, but not having to have my car idle on the driveway for 90 mins while being around it. If the update could be preformed while driving I could live with that, but not just having the car sit there.
 

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What is stopping me from going ahead and doing this update is the installation time. I cannot imagine having to let my car sit and run for 90 mins to do this. That is just crazy. I can live with the cost of the update, but not having to have my car idle on the driveway for 90 mins while being around it. If the update could be preformed while driving I could live with that, but not just having the car sit there.
Well, as I wrote above, it is possible to install with the engine not running. It's a PITA though because you have to constantly monitor throughout the process and reset the ignition to "Run" every time it automatically shuts off. Also it's probably only safe with a battery charger connected.

And I discovered another complication, apparently from the process. The next day I found neither of my remote key fobs would function, at least not the transmitters. The proximity sensors worked, but not the remote buttons until I resynched each key fob by locking and unlocking with the driver door lock buttons while the key fob was present.
 

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What is stopping me from going ahead and doing this update is the installation time. I cannot imagine having to let my car sit and run for 90 mins to do this. That is just crazy. I can live with the cost of the update, but not having to have my car idle on the driveway for 90 mins while being around it. If the update could be preformed while driving I could live with that, but not just having the car sit there.
You can do it while driving, just be aware that you can only drive, you can't "Play" with any systems while its doing the update.
 

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You can do it while driving, just be aware that you can only drive, you can't "Play" with any systems while its doing the update.
Ok well that is good to know. I would rather do it while I was having to commute somewhere for about an hour or so.
 

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And I discovered another complication, apparently from the process. The next day I found neither of my remote key fobs would function, at least not the transmitters. The proximity sensors worked, but not the remote buttons until I resynched each key fob by locking and unlocking with the driver door lock buttons while the key fob was present.
Actually I just had the same problem with my key fob and I haven't updated anything. I also had to re-sync it by pressing the lock and unlock buttons on the car door.
 

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Actually I just had the same problem with my key fob and I haven't updated anything. I also had to re-sync it by pressing the lock and unlock buttons on the car door.
Go figure.

My guess was it happened to mine because I opened and closed the driver's door multiple times with the key inside and ignition in "Run" while the map data update was going on. Figured the body control module might have been off-line somehow during the update process. Now I have no idea, though now that I think of it, one other thing was that I also opened both front windows during the process.

Of course, possibly there is some other completely unrelated glitch.
 

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Go figure.

My guess was it happened to mine because I opened and closed the driver's door multiple times with the key inside and ignition in "Run" while the map data update was going on. Figured the body control module might have been off-line somehow during the update process. Now I have no idea, though now that I think of it, one other thing was that I also opened both front windows during the process.

Of course, possibly there is some other completely unrelated glitch.
I don't know what could have caused it. I know that I have taken both key fobs in the car recently and maybe that did something. I have also left the car while it is running with the key fob in my pocket to get something from the garage or mailbox to come back with the message "key fob has left the vehicle" on the display. Maybe that did something.
 

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I did post this in also the Uconnect update sticky but since this thread also appears quite active:


---------

New Uconnect Update out for USB download (for at least the 8.4 inch R4):



SERVICE BULLETIN ID:
08-047-17

RELEASE DATE: 2017-05-05


https://www.driveuconnect.com/suppor...re-update.html
 

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Go figure.

My guess was it happened to mine because I opened and closed the driver's door multiple times with the key inside and ignition in "Run" while the map data update was going on. Figured the body control module might have been off-line somehow during the update process. Now I have no idea, though now that I think of it, one other thing was that I also opened both front windows during the process.

Of course, possibly there is some other completely unrelated glitch.
I am curious, have you had anymore problems with your remote since you reset it? Mine is still acting up. It pretty much doesn't work almost daily when I try and use the remote start in the morning.
 
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