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OK, so I have metal shavings in my oil and the dealer said that since they didn’t find them, they won’t do anything about it. I decided to pull out my cam sensor and take a look on the bank where the ticking was at. I discovered that there’s a layer of metal dust/oil on the cam and sensor ring. Is this normal for the 3.6? I’m assuming I’ll need to pay to have them remove the valve cover and inspect it before they’ll approve a warranty repair under my powertrain warranty.
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"Normal" no.

Didn't happen to any of mine, the last 200 I had I owned from new untill 116K miles when I traded it in. I have read that it happened to a few members here in the 7+ years I have been on this forum.

I would get a second opinion from another dealer, you shouldn't have to pay to have them do anything, or maybe show them the picture. Just be blunt with them. If they remove the valve cover and find the problem, you don't owe them anything, they have to fix it under warranty. Maybe send Chrysler Cares a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
"Normal" no.

Didn't happen to any of mine, the last 200 I had I owned from new untill 116K miles when I traded it in. I have read that it happened to a few members here in the 7+ years I have been on this forum.

I would get a second opinion from another dealer, you shouldn't have to pay to have them do anything, or maybe show them the picture. Just be blunt with them. If they remove the valve cover and find the problem, you don't owe them anything, they have to fix it under warranty. Maybe send Chrysler Cares a PM.
Well I originally was told that I have to pay for them to remove the valve cover to inspect for the ticking and camshaft wear. But if they found something, then it would be covered under warranty. I already have a case open with Chrysler cares over them rejecting my corrosion on the front lip of my hood. So maybe I’ll mention it to him with some images. But, it just doesn’t seem like a good sign to me. Thanks for the response
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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All shops have to state their shop service policies/procedures and 'possible' diagnostic/minimum charges up front at the service desk to the customer before writing the repair order.
It is just good business practice. Please don't feel threatened or intimidated by it.
If they find the damage as shown in the images and it is covered under warranty, you know and I know that the customer-pay diagnostic charge would be waived and the repair would be covered under the warranty.
Sign your repair order and keep all written documentation. Word of mouth and phone conversations may not be proof if this has to go to a higher level.
I don't expect any problems with this.
 

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So I have a 2011 it had 73000 miles when I got it in 2013 its almost paid off good car oil changes and plugs just started haveing problems last year multiple misfires in cylinders 2 engine light come on change plugs light go out 3 days later car won't go past 2000rpmsshut it off starts back up everything fine changed everything vvt solenoid are good plug solenoid replaced all 4 spent 800 on throttle body still misfires on cylinders 2 well I was on my way home yesterday and I here a clacking or knocking sound and it was bad clack clack clack clack no smoke well I made it home couldn't pull in drive pushed it up shut it off won't start back up took valvecover off didn't see anything out of the ordinary just did oil change so I drained oil pulled pan and metal shavings in bottom of pan there's this opening on bottom of motor with a screen in it screen was full of metal shavings dont know what happened it has163thousand miles on it should I just sell all the new stuff I put on it altinator throttle body you know piece it out I just paid it off got no warranties on it you think it's worth it to tear it down and fix it myself I'm guessing its piston in cylinders 2 and possibly other ones like I said no smoke or nothing but something broke loose
 

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IMO, Sounds like its gonna cost about $1500 more or less too fix. You wont know until a shop gets into it. Might just be a lifter and rocker or could need the whole head assy. Its somewhat common w the 3.6, and for what its worth I would contact Chrysler Cares on this forum w your prob. IMO thats B.S. that yours lasted 73K and unfourtanetly its something we alll have too pay attention too with these 3.6's.
A well maintained Engine should last 100K+... any less its a design flaw.
On the other hand, not many good used cars out there right now and theyre getting top dollar. If you decide too fix it, plan on keeping it until the end because resale value isnt that good.
Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Woo she’s officially at the shop finally. I had to approve 5 hours of labor to tear it down at $700. Let’s hope they find what I expect them to. 😬
 

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Well I originally was told that I have to pay for them to remove the valve cover to inspect for the ticking and camshaft wear. But if they found something, then it would be covered under warranty. I already have a case open with Chrysler cares over them rejecting my corrosion on the front lip of my hood. So maybe I’ll mention it to him with some images. But, it just doesn’t seem like a good sign to me. Thanks for the response
Stay on them for the hood corrosion. Chrysler cares did help my situation w the dealer and got it fixed.
Please keep us posted on your metal in oil situation. Good luck.
 
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