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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I've searched the forums but have not seen one that ends with a solution. My vehicle is a 2013 200 Limited with the 3.6 Engine. this vehicle stalled literally 20 minutes from the car lot I bought it at.. We drove it for 2 hours while test driving with no issues just for the record. Anyways, The vehicle randomly stalled out in the middle of a busy intersection and I coasted it to the shoulder. It would then crank but not start. Car lot showed up, scanned it for codes but nothing was stored. The vehicle started right back up after about 30 minutes of being off. I agreed to drive home (40 miles away) in hopes that it was a fluke.. It made it home and that evening after filling it up with gas, it stalled while I was trying to make it back onto the highway. This time I waited 30 minutes and it would not start. Called a tow truck and had it taken to my home to which after they dropped it off, it started right back up, Again no codes.. I drove it all the way back to Tyler to the dealership the next morning and they ended up replacing the fuel pump. The car ran for a week and then tonight, randomly it stalled on the roadway at about 30 miles per hour and I coasted to a parking lot. I didn't notice but my wife said the Electronic Control light and traction control lights were flashing as it died. I tried to restart it and nothing. Called my dad to come pick up my wife, son and Myself.. We went back with our truck about 40 minutes later and again, like usual, it started right back up and I was able to drive it home.. Has anyone figured out what is giving these cars these kind of fits? OR is their something you can guide me with to check. Could it be the throttle body? (looks like a big issue with these cars) Can the battery cause this kind of issue with all the electronics.. I am at a loss and not afraid to get dirty, just would like some guidance from someone with a little familiarity with these. I have owned many many many chrysler vehicles, none with this kind of problem.. (Pacifica, 05 Durango, 14 Charger RT, 15 Durango Limited, 02 Ram 1500, 12 Ram 1500, 16 Ram Laramie, and so on..

Your help is much appreciated..
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Welcome to the forum. Was the fuel pump their best guess or did they have some kind of clue that led them to that diagnosis?
Fuel pressure loss may cause a 'sputter' before it dies. Ignition spark loss will be abrupt, like someone reached over and turned off the key.
You mentioned the battery. Is there any other symptoms of a failing battery? It is out-of-sight, out-of-mind and should be inspected/tested and the terminals removed and cleaned.
Many auto parts stores will give a free comprehensive battery, charging, starter draw test in the parking lot if they can release someone from the counter. Some will give you a printout of the results.
Not everything will set a fault code and intermittents can be frustrating. I have used data recorders and road tested the car (or let the owner take it) and got a recording back for analysis when it finally does quit again. If it quits, a button push will store graphs and indicators of what the PCM saw for the past 90 seconds leading up to the stall. Always diagnose first.
Driving around with a capable scan tool is another way. When the car quits, look under sensors and while cranking, see if the cam and crank sensor signals are 'lost' or 'present'. There are 4 cam sensors and 1 crank sensor. The crank sensor triggers the spark. The cam sensors sync the fuel injectors (#1 TDC) and give position feedback to the PCM so it can adjust the cam timing for instantaneous conditions.
A capable scan tool can also look for TIPM and WIN module fault codes related to stall.
I tend to lean towards the crankshaft position sensor as it won't always set a code and matches your symptoms.
Vehicles of the era had a bad batch of CKP sensors that were released.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I think I read this on a previous posting / response of yours . Crank Sensor is 21 bucks at autozone.. I'll check out the stamping on the part and get it swapped out if needed.. Was also going to check the battery voltage just because I've seen bad batteries do some weird stuff to electronics in the past and with these batteries being in the wheel well, who knows if its ever been replaced. Also the signs of a bad crank sensor sound very similar to my issues but then again, so did the fuel pump. We couldn't hear the pump prime when it died the first few times so that was the reasoning for the swap from the dealer. It drove good for about 4 days after but then as I said, died last night which was a huge scare because it nearly ran me into traffic.. Barely coasted it into a parking lot.
 

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Failing batteries and alternator charge 'ripple' can wreak havoc on sensitive electronics.
When you first roll the key to run, you should hear the fuel pump 'whirr' under the back seat for a second as it primes the fuel line & rails. With no engine rotation detected, it won't allow the pump to continue running. The ASD relay & fuel pump relay will deactivate for safety.

If you decide to try a crank sensor, I do recommend getting the OEM part, it doesn't necessarily have to be 'Mopar' brand.
Autozone list 4 crank sensors that will 'fit', but only one of them (the Encore) is called a 'Genuine OEM part':

I'm not saying that you will have issues with an off-brand, but I have had them. When I had problems with an aftermarket sensor, I thought to myself that it couldn't possibly be the sensor because I just put in the new one. This had me start suspecting the PCM (the voltage would peg). I came very close to buying a PCM.
Luckily I tried another (different brand) of sensor and the problem was cured. After that I only dealt with OEM parts.
I don't know what other parts store chains you have in your area, but Advance lists the same Encore part for a few dollars less:

Check other websites like NAPA, Pep Boys, etc for your best deal on an OEM crank sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Failing batteries and alternator charge 'ripple' can wreak havoc on sensitive electronics.
When you first roll the key to run, you should hear the fuel pump 'whirr' under the back seat for a second as it primes the fuel line & rails. With no engine rotation detected, it won't allow the pump to continue running. The ASD relay & fuel pump relay will deactivate for safety.

If you decide to try a crank sensor, I do recommend getting the OEM part, it doesn't necessarily have to be 'Mopar' brand.
Autozone list 4 crank sensors that will 'fit', but only one of them (the Encore) is called a 'Genuine OEM part':

I'm not saying that you will have issues with an off-brand, but I have had them. When I had problems with an aftermarket sensor, I thought to myself that it couldn't possibly be the sensor because I just put in the new one. This had me start suspecting the PCM (the voltage would peg). I came very close to buying a PCM.
Luckily I tried another (different brand) of sensor and the problem was cured. After that I only dealt with OEM parts.
I don't know what other parts store chains you have in your area, but Advance lists the same Encore part for a few dollars less:

Check other websites like NAPA, Pep Boys, etc for your best deal on an OEM crank sensor.

Here is what I pulled from the vehicle. I went ahead and went to the dodge dealer and just bought the OEM Crank Sensor (05149167AD) .. I test drove it and I will say, It does feel a little smoother but I'm not going to hold my breath.. I will keep you updated just so if someone else runs by this, they can see if it is a viable solution or not. I'm going to take the car to Autozone or Oriellys later and have them test the battery to see if there is anything there. I will keep posting if I find more information.. Again, Thank you for your help.. It gives me reassurance that at least I feel I am on the right path.
 

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Hello all,

I've searched the forums but have not seen one that ends with a solution. My vehicle is a 2013 200 Limited with the 3.6 Engine. this vehicle stalled literally 20 minutes from the car lot I bought it at.. We drove it for 2 hours while test driving with no issues just for the record. Anyways, The vehicle randomly stalled out in the middle of a busy intersection and I coasted it to the shoulder. It would then crank but not start. Car lot showed up, scanned it for codes but nothing was stored. The vehicle started right back up after about 30 minutes of being off. I agreed to drive home (40 miles away) in hopes that it was a fluke.. It made it home and that evening after filling it up with gas, it stalled while I was trying to make it back onto the highway. This time I waited 30 minutes and it would not start. Called a tow truck and had it taken to my home to which after they dropped it off, it started right back up, Again no codes.. I drove it all the way back to Tyler to the dealership the next morning and they ended up replacing the fuel pump. The car ran for a week and then tonight, randomly it stalled on the roadway at about 30 miles per hour and I coasted to a parking lot. I didn't notice but my wife said the Electronic Control light and traction control lights were flashing as it died. I tried to restart it and nothing. Called my dad to come pick up my wife, son and Myself.. We went back with our truck about 40 minutes later and again, like usual, it started right back up and I was able to drive it home.. Has anyone figured out what is giving these cars these kind of fits? OR is their something you can guide me with to check. Could it be the throttle body? (looks like a big issue with these cars) Can the battery cause this kind of issue with all the electronics.. I am at a loss and not afraid to get dirty, just would like some guidance from someone with a little familiarity with these. I have owned many many many chrysler vehicles, none with this kind of problem.. (Pacifica, 05 Durango, 14 Charger RT, 15 Durango Limited, 02 Ram 1500, 12 Ram 1500, 16 Ram Laramie, and so on..

Your help is much appreciated..
Hello all,

I've searched the forums but have not seen one that ends with a solution. My vehicle is a 2013 200 Limited with the 3.6 Engine. this vehicle stalled literally 20 minutes from the car lot I bought it at.. We drove it for 2 hours while test driving with no issues just for the record. Anyways, The vehicle randomly stalled out in the middle of a busy intersection and I coasted it to the shoulder. It would then crank but not start. Car lot showed up, scanned it for codes but nothing was stored. The vehicle started right back up after about 30 minutes of being off. I agreed to drive home (40 miles away) in hopes that it was a fluke.. It made it home and that evening after filling it up with gas, it stalled while I was trying to make it back onto the highway. This time I waited 30 minutes and it would not start. Called a tow truck and had it taken to my home to which after they dropped it off, it started right back up, Again no codes.. I drove it all the way back to Tyler to the dealership the next morning and they ended up replacing the fuel pump. The car ran for a week and then tonight, randomly it stalled on the roadway at about 30 miles per hour and I coasted to a parking lot. I didn't notice but my wife said the Electronic Control light and traction control lights were flashing as it died. I tried to restart it and nothing. Called my dad to come pick up my wife, son and Myself.. We went back with our truck about 40 minutes later and again, like usual, it started right back up and I was able to drive it home.. Has anyone figured out what is giving these cars these kind of fits? OR is their something you can guide me with to check. Could it be the throttle body? (looks like a big issue with these cars) Can the battery cause this kind of issue with all the electronics.. I am at a loss and not afraid to get dirty, just would like some guidance from someone with a little familiarity with these. I have owned many many many chrysler vehicles, none with this kind of problem.. (Pacifica, 05 Durango, 14 Charger RT, 15 Durango Limited, 02 Ram 1500, 12 Ram 1500, 16 Ram Laramie, and so on..

Your help is much appreciated..
i had the same issue with my 200 as well it would start and drive perfect, i would go somewhere try to start it and it wouldn't. After 20 minutes or so started right up. Scanned for codes there was none so after some trial and error we thought it was the starter because it wouldn't even crank. so after taking the airbox off we found a loose electrical connection tightened it and she starts right away sense then. check all electrical connections if they are loose tighten them and see if she will start sometimes its as easy as that. Another thing make sure your battery is the right size if not the electricity going to the engine will not supply enough power. if all electrical connections are good id say check the ignition switch see if it is shot if all else fails you could also check the starter itself under the hood. To my understanding these model cars especially tend to have unreliable starters and engines all around, good luck
 

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Hello all,

I've searched the forums but have not seen one that ends with a solution. My vehicle is a 2013 200 Limited with the 3.6 Engine. this vehicle stalled literally 20 minutes from the car lot I bought it at.. We drove it for 2 hours while test driving with no issues just for the record. Anyways, The vehicle randomly stalled out in the middle of a busy intersection and I coasted it to the shoulder. It would then crank but not start. Car lot showed up, scanned it for codes but nothing was stored. The vehicle started right back up after about 30 minutes of being off. I agreed to drive home (40 miles away) in hopes that it was a fluke.. It made it home and that evening after filling it up with gas, it stalled while I was trying to make it back onto the highway. This time I waited 30 minutes and it would not start. Called a tow truck and had it taken to my home to which after they dropped it off, it started right back up, Again no codes.. I drove it all the way back to Tyler to the dealership the next morning and they ended up replacing the fuel pump. The car ran for a week and then tonight, randomly it stalled on the roadway at about 30 miles per hour and I coasted to a parking lot. I didn't notice but my wife said the Electronic Control light and traction control lights were flashing as it died. I tried to restart it and nothing. Called my dad to come pick up my wife, son and Myself.. We went back with our truck about 40 minutes later and again, like usual, it started right back up and I was able to drive it home.. Has anyone figured out what is giving these cars these kind of fits? OR is their something you can guide me with to check. Could it be the throttle body? (looks like a big issue with these cars) Can the battery cause this kind of issue with all the electronics.. I am at a loss and not afraid to get dirty, just would like some guidance from someone with a little familiarity with these. I have owned many many many chrysler vehicles, none with this kind of problem.. (Pacifica, 05 Durango, 14 Charger RT, 15 Durango Limited, 02 Ram 1500, 12 Ram 1500, 16 Ram Laramie, and so on..

Your help is much appreciated..
I can almost 100% guarantee it’s the throttle body. Same exact thing had been happening to me. Stalled out on me this afternoon. Getting it replaced now as we speak. Very common problem in this car. Definitely going to resell this lemon afterwards. Paid more into this car with repairs than I initially purchased it for. No bueno!
 

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Hello all,

I've searched the forums but have not seen one that ends with a solution. My vehicle is a 2013 200 Limited with the 3.6 Engine. this vehicle stalled literally 20 minutes from the car lot I bought it at.. We drove it for 2 hours while test driving with no issues just for the record. Anyways, The vehicle randomly stalled out in the middle of a busy intersection and I coasted it to the shoulder. It would then crank but not start. Car lot showed up, scanned it for codes but nothing was stored. The vehicle started right back up after about 30 minutes of being off. I agreed to drive home (40 miles away) in hopes that it was a fluke.. It made it home and that evening after filling it up with gas, it stalled while I was trying to make it back onto the highway. This time I waited 30 minutes and it would not start. Called a tow truck and had it taken to my home to which after they dropped it off, it started right back up, Again no codes.. I drove it all the way back to Tyler to the dealership the next morning and they ended up replacing the fuel pump. The car ran for a week and then tonight, randomly it stalled on the roadway at about 30 miles per hour and I coasted to a parking lot. I didn't notice but my wife said the Electronic Control light and traction control lights were flashing as it died. I tried to restart it and nothing. Called my dad to come pick up my wife, son and Myself.. We went back with our truck about 40 minutes later and again, like usual, it started right back up and I was able to drive it home.. Has anyone figured out what is giving these cars these kind of fits? OR is their something you can guide me with to check. Could it be the throttle body? (looks like a big issue with these cars) Can the battery cause this kind of issue with all the electronics.. I am at a loss and not afraid to get dirty, just would like some guidance from someone with a little familiarity with these. I have owned many many many chrysler vehicles, none with this kind of problem.. (Pacifica, 05 Durango, 14 Charger RT, 15 Durango Limited, 02 Ram 1500, 12 Ram 1500, 16 Ram Laramie, and so on..

Your help is much appreciated..
I have 2012 with the 2.4 and it did the same thing. It was the crank sensor . Trying to give the car more than a 1/4 throttle it fell on its face and died in the middle of highway and no lights no check engine came up at first but did later. Don’t use after market parts and just replacing it does not fix it . They have to run a re-learn program to fix it . This is a very common problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update : Been a few weeks after I replaced the crank sensor. So far so good.. Since then I've replaced the spark plugs, intake gaskets etc.. and they were for sure needed (not related to this issue) . While I was in there I went up and down the engine harness and checked for any rubbing against the frame.. I didn't see any evidence of issues there. I ran a meter to the battery and seems to be ok (13 volts) .. Question though for anyone : I'm averaging 20 mpg (lots of stop and go here) and its calculating I have 214 miles to empty.. What's the deal here? Cause for concern? I am not a math guy but 16.9 Gallons at even 18 mpg is over 300..

Thanks All
 

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The DTE will not be completely accurate. It will leave you a reserve amount of fuel in the tank so you don't run out of gas.
Does the fuel gauge seem accurate? Is full 'full'? Is nearly empty 'near empty'?
Is refueling the car easy? No spitbacks or shutoffs?
  • Distance To Empty (DTE) Shows the estimated distance that can be traveled with the fuel remaining in the tank. This estimated distance is determined by a weighted average of the instantaneous and average fuel economy, according to the current fuel tank level. DTE cannot be reset through the RESET button. When the DTE value is less than 30 miles (48 km) estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a text display of "LOW FUEL." This display will continue until the vehicle runs out of fuel. Adding a significant amount of fuel to the vehicle will turn off the "LOW FUEL" text and a new DTE value will display.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The DTE will not be completely accurate. It will leave you a reserve amount of fuel in the tank so you don't run out of gas.
Does the fuel gauge seem accurate? Is full 'full'? Is nearly empty 'near empty'?
Is refueling the car easy? No spitbacks or shutoffs?
  • Distance To Empty (DTE) Shows the estimated distance that can be traveled with the fuel remaining in the tank. This estimated distance is determined by a weighted average of the instantaneous and average fuel economy, according to the current fuel tank level. DTE cannot be reset through the RESET button. When the DTE value is less than 30 miles (48 km) estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a text display of "LOW FUEL." This display will continue until the vehicle runs out of fuel. Adding a significant amount of fuel to the vehicle will turn off the "LOW FUEL" text and a new DTE value will display.
The gauge shows full when I fill it up and it casually goes to empty as I drive.. As my example above, I just filled the tank up to full and checked the DTE.. It shows I am averaging 21 mpg but the DTE shows 214 miles to empty.. Do these cars abnormally consume a lot of fuel while idle? I didn't take that into consideration, I just think you would need to have the vehicle on for long periods of time to cover the difference there.

When filling with gas, No spitbacks or anything like that, Nothing abnormal there to me anyways.
 

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The DTE is figured by the gallons of fuel in tank x MPG. That figures to about having 10.2 gallons of fuel in the tank.
The advertised tank size is 16.9 gallons, but you will never completely fill or completely empty the tank either.
In order to have a safe margin of fuel left in the tank, let's say to figures on a 15 gallon tank. It is still inaccurate.
 

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The DTE will not be completely accurate. It will leave you a reserve amount of fuel in the tank so you don't run out of gas.
Does the fuel gauge seem accurate? Is full 'full'? Is nearly empty 'near empty'?
Is refueling the car easy? No spitbacks or shutoffs?
  • Distance To Empty (DTE) Shows the estimated distance that can be traveled with the fuel remaining in the tank. This estimated distance is determined by a weighted average of the instantaneous and average fuel economy, according to the current fuel tank level. DTE cannot be reset through the RESET button. When the DTE value is less than 30 miles (48 km) estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a text display of "LOW FUEL." This display will continue until the vehicle runs out of fuel. Adding a significant amount of fuel to the vehicle will turn off the "LOW FUEL" text and a new DTE value will display.
My car the gage won't go all the way to "full" now since I replaced my full pump. Also from day one it has been a pain in the butt to put gas in. It's like something is blocking the line.
 

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If the pump has been installed recently, the shop may be able to do it under warranty (1 yr?). I suspect the float arm may got bent installing the pump or there is an interference inside the tank that prevents the float from its full upward movement.

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If the nozzle keeps shutting off when filling the tank, there may be a restriction in the tank's fuel vapor recovery system.
We want to keep fumes from entering the air, instead the tank 'breathes' through an activated charcoal canister to trap fumes (hydrocarbons).
The fuel tank 'vents' through a valve at the top of the tank. The valve will only pass vapor, it shouldn't pass liquid fuel. If liquid fuel enters the canister, it can 'drown' and become a restriction.
I've seen the plastic tank top bow or warp downward which can drown the vent valve on older cars.

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