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Ill start this by saying thank you in advance to anyone who has any input about this issue im having. This just started a few days ago and has seemingly gotten worse over time but the noise only happens when the car is over 1500rpm and when im not braking, the noise goes away when I brake and when the car goes over 1500rpms. Attached is also a link to the YouTube video I took with what could be related to the problem but not sure. 2011 Chrysler 200 Touring with the 3.6L
 

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Ill start this by saying thank you in advance to anyone who has any input about this issue im having. This just started a few days ago and has seemingly gotten worse over time but the noise only happens when the car is over 1500rpm and when im not braking, the noise goes away when I brake and when the car goes over 1500rpms. Attached is also a link to the YouTube video I took with what could be related to the problem but not sure. 2011 Chrysler 200 Touring with the 3.6L
The car in the video looks like it has bad universal joints. I'm not sure why the noise would be affected by your engine speed though.
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Backlash noise. Keep on going toward the 'clank' source.
Is it from the brake rotor being loose on the hub? That would be normal with the wheels off.
Is it from the axle (CV) joints as stated above?
Is it from inside the transaxle/differential? Some backlash is normal.
Is this the noise you are hearing going down the road? Are all steering, suspension and brake components fastened tightly at the proper torque?
 

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Ill start this by saying thank you in advance to anyone who has any input about this issue im having. This just started a few days ago and has seemingly gotten worse over time but the noise only happens when the car is over 1500rpm and when im not braking, the noise goes away when I brake and when the car goes over 1500rpms. Attached is also a link to the YouTube video I took with what could be related to the problem but not sure. 2011 Chrysler 200 Touring with the 3.6L
Ill start this by saying thank you in advance to anyone who has any input about this issue im having. This just started a few days ago and has seemingly gotten worse over time but the noise only happens when the car is over 1500rpm and when im not braking, the noise goes away when I brake and when the car goes over 1500rpms. Attached is also a link to the YouTube video I took with what could be related to the problem but not sure. 2011 Chrysler 200 Touring with the 3.6L
 

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If you have not tried lifting your tire and rocking it back and forth to track down where the sound is coming from. CV joint Axle I have had problems with usually the rubber boot around the CV joint will be broke cracked damaged when the CV joint is bad. When I am turning it seems to be louder and when I let up on gas peddle and car starts slowing down.
4 Signs of a Bad CV Axle/Half Shaft | Carr Chevrolet
How to Diagnose a Bad CV Axle - YouTube
Dodge dart and Chrysler 200 right front CV axle replacement - YouTube
Why Does My Car Axle Click? Diagnosing and Explaining Axle Noises - YouTube
Dodge dart and Chrysler 200 left front cv axle replacement - YouTube
wheel bearing
How to Replace Front Wheel Hub 11-14 Chrysler 200 - YouTube
Chrysler 200: Bad Wheel Bearing Noise Diagnosis | Drivetrain Resource (700r4transmissionhq.com)
(1) Wheel Bearings | Chrysler 200 Forum (200forums.com)
 

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2016 Chrysler 200 S, 1998 Sebring JX
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Find out where the 'slop' or 'play' is. It will be at the point where one part is moving and the other is not.
Is this the 'clank' noise you hear when driving down the road? Or is it a different kind of noise?

Wheel bearings usually 'growl', changing pitch with road speed. Outer axle CV joints usually 'clatter' on sharp low speed turns under acceleration. Inner axle CV joints may 'shudder' (high speed) or 'wobble' (low speed) like a bad tire.

If the noise goes away when you press on the brakes, it may be from wear/looseness in the suspension or steering components. The forces of braking will be applied to joints and bushings, like ball joints and tierod ends, etc and stop the noise.

You are going about this correctly by diagnosing first, instead of just guessing and replacing parts. :)
Look for the looseness making the 'clank'.
 
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