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Discussion Starter #1
Everyone knows about the common coolant leaking from the thermostat gasket, now there is this place to look out for.
I occasionally smelled coolant from the car since I bought it a year ago, but could never locate the leak, added about 1/3 gallon of coolant to the reservoir in the past few months as it was getting worse, and last week, I finally found out where the leak was coming from.
You can see the drop stains at the bottom, on the frame and if I shake the hose/coupler it leaks more.
Need parts #10 & 11 HERE, which I got, waiting on coolant from Amazon to replace the hose.
Crappy design of the decade IMO, couldn't they have just put a long hose all the way from the thermostat housing to the radiator, or a normal hose with clamps from the radiator to that metal hose? instead it connects by pushing it in it seems and stays there with a C clip. I'll elaborate more once I replace it to see how it goes on there. Also need a special wrench to squeeze that clamp, I got mine on Amazon.
Point of this thread is, check that connection and look underneath it to see if a few drops start showing on the frame, started smelling more around 30K (35K now), so check your car.

Coolant leak.jpg

Hose and clamp.jpg

Hose inside.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Do you guys know how to bleed the system, is it just by turning on the car, loosening the bleed screw and wait until coolant comes out? any more to it than that?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did it today, it was a PITA, no room for anything and no access to anywhere. After removing the cover that is to get to the radiator cowl, I removed all the bolts to no avail, everything is connected under there, cowl, radiator support... the only way I could have removed the cowl to get enough room to use the pliers would have been to remove the front bumper, forget that, so I cut the cowl to get access to the clamp as you can see in the pictures, no big deal anyway, the cover hides all that, at least there will be access for next time. I was going to use a regular clamp, but there was no room to the sides of the hose for a regular clamp to fit, so I had to use that Mopar clamp and special pliers. FYI: only half a quart came out when I disconnected the upper hose, and once I was done, I ran the engine for 15 minutes with the heat on max and I didn't need to purge the system, so that was a plus.
After all that I put the car on ramps and cleaned everything under there where coolant had splashed, and I notice that there must have been a major thermostat gasket failure before, because all the pass side of the engine, frame... was baked with old coolant, so I cleaned all that too. After that I drove about 5 miles keeping an eye on the coolant temp, and checked the level when I got home and all was good.

top.jpg

pipe.jpg

Clamp.jpg

Before cutting.jpg

after cutting.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No one, wow, this forum is like the 200, done.
 

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No one, wow, this forum is like the 200, done.
It just might be that no one, besides you, has that type of leak, much less the know how to repair it.
Either way, it's a good job and excellent write up. I hope our's doesn't leak, because it will get taken to a shop for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It just might be that no one, besides you, has that type of leak, much less the know how to repair it.
Either way, it's a good job and excellent write up. I hope our's doesn't leak, because it will get taken to a shop for that.
My complaint was that no one bothered to say thanks for the info, pictures...

And if you take it to a shop, they'd better have 90° pliers for the clamps or they'll need to take out the bumper... to get to it, which will add 1-2 hours in labor, I don't think they will cut like I did.

Also the design is stupid, it adds complexity, parts and cost, and increases the chance of leaks as opposed to a regular hose with normal clamps.
 

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Had this leak along with the very common thermostat leak 6 months ago. Dealer fixed it under warranty. They did tell me that the radiator hose replacement would have cost me $450 if I did not have the extended warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Had this leak along with the very common thermostat leak 6 months ago. Dealer fixed it under warranty. They did tell me that the radiator hose replacement would have cost me $450 if I did not have the extended warranty.
Cost me $40 + pliers (Amazon), could have reused the coolant, so I saved about $400, nice to DIY.
 
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Cost me $40 + pliers (Amazon), could have reused the coolant, so I saved about $400, nice to DIY.
Yea, I agree, after they told me this, I checked some parts stores like AutoZone. Part isn't much money, so I'm assuming much of this is due to labor with taking so much apart to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yea, I agree, after they told me this, I checked some parts stores like AutoZone. Part isn't much money, so I'm assuming much of this is due to labor with taking so much apart to get to it.
That hose is not available at auto parts stores, I checked Pepboys… before buying online, they have one listed and it's nowhere like the hose in the picture, only place is the dealer or www.Moparpartsgiant.com or some online Mopar place.
That hose has a C clip at one end, not a traditional hose at all.
 

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That hose is not available at auto parts stores, I checked Pepboys… before buying online, they have one listed and it's nowhere like the hose in the picture, only place is the dealer or www.Moparpartsgiant.com or some online Mopar place.
That hose has a C clip at one end, not a traditional hose at all.
Well it's a good thing I didn't try to do this on my own, I would have started badly with the wrong part. Yea, I just checked and now cannot find the hose. I must have looked up the wrong part to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those C clips make for an easy install, but they're bad for reliabilty, There is one like that at the bottom hose too. as if the thermostat gasket wasn't enough to worry about. Speaking of reliability, I bought my car used a year ago with 23,000 miles on it, and the thermostat gasket had been obviously replaced, there was dried up coolant all over the side of the intake box, when I checked the car out when I bought it, and shortly thereafter I smelled coolant, but could not locate the leak, and it was wasn't coming from the thermostat, only recently that it was leaking more that I noticed the drops on the frame under the upper hose, only has 35,000 miles now.
Now I wonder how long the hose I just replaced is gonna last, probably 3 year before it leaks again, and I have to keep an eye on the one at the bottom too, which I'll inspect at every oil change from now on.
My wife's 2012 kia has normal hoses and clamps, has 70,000 miles and never had coolant leak issues, bad job on Chrysler's part, I still like the car, and love the V6, but better reliability would nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Guess what, there's another leak where the passenger side hose is, I thought the dried up coolant there was from a past leak, but after I cleaned it good, I saw a few drops on the frame, because I still could smell coolant, it's coming from that stupid special clamp that cannot be tightened, and of course that hose cannot be replaced because the other side is pressed onto the metal tube, so for now I put and extra clamp, and if it's stops leaking I won't touch it until I sell the car, which might happen sooner than later, since the cooling system in an unreliable POS.

2nd clamp.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
The extra clamp I put on didn't work, it was still leaking so I bought the small hose from Pepboys (part # 70816 for $1.99), and since they didn't have a thermostat housing or gasket, I went to Autozpne and got the the thermostat housing with gasket (902-3036 Dorman for $11.49), way cheaper than buying the whole metal tube with hose from the dealer or Moparpartsgiant.com, plus not point buying the whole tube if the hose is gonna leak every 3-4 years.

So I replaced the thermostat housing with new gasket and new hose for less than $15. Biggest PITA was cutting the pressed on clamp on the metal pipe, only shears with brute force worked.
Small hose is too short IMO, don't know why they made it like that, it should one inch longer, but hopefully it won't slide out, there is a flange on both ends, so it should be secure, I'll keep an eye on it.
Drove around for half an hour, no leaks, all good so far.
Now I have to keep an eye on the lower hose, because there is a C clamp there too.
You guys can check [url]www.Rockauto.com[/URL] to have an idea of what that small hose looks like.

Small hose.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #15
2 things:

1) Since I changed the thermostat (OEM temp), it runs cooler, it used to always be middle to 2/3 of the temp bar gauge, now it's around 3/8, so that's cool.

2) If you replace that engine to pipe 4" hose, it's better to get the Jegs 511285 hose and cut it to fit, 4" is too short, it needs to be 4 3/8 long, on my car anyway.
 

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Thanks for posting this info. I noticed my coolant tank was empty when I got home today. I will check some of these areas when I have a free moment.
 

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Thanks for all the info in your thread mr. Vegas! I've been driving my car hard the last few weeks doing some tuning, and it leaked a little in the same areas. It hasn't since I've been back to normal driving but it's not like it's gonna get any better. Guess if I want to enjoy my new performance on a reg basis, I'm gonna have too make some similar mods. Lyk what I do and thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Keep us in the loop when you fix it to see how it goes.

On my end, I checked the coolant level in the reservoir a few times since then and it still is where it was after I fixed the leaks, between min and max, so it's all good, hopefully the lower hose won't start leaking anytime soon.
 

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Cool!! You should be good you fingered the right areas! I'm first gonna try and match up a lower psi reservoir cap, see if that helps. Stock is 22 I'm gonna try 15
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Cool!! You should be good you fingered the right areas! I'm first gonna try and match up a lower psi reservoir cap, see if that helps. Stock is 22 I'm gonna try 15
Changing the cap to a lower PSI is just gonna screw things up and is not gonna do anything in regards to leaks.
 
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