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Changing the cap to a lower PSI is just gonna screw things up and is not gonna do anything in regards to leaks.
It's not gonna fix a leak but it may help high pressure seeping which is where I'm at right now. No leaks or coolant loss since I was beating it for a week. Losing about 5 psi will be easier on the weak spots in this system but will also bring the boiling point of the coolant down about 15 deg but I should still be good. If I find one easy enough I'm gonna try it and let y'all know what happens. Prob after the holidays so in the words of Hans Grubber..." Ho.......ho........ho."
 

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It's not gonna fix a leak but it may help high pressure seeping which is where I'm at right now. No leaks or coolant loss since I was beating it for a week. Losing about 5 psi will be easier on the weak spots in this system but will also bring the boiling point of the coolant down about 15 deg but I should still be good. If I find one easy enough I'm gonna try it and let y'all know what happens. Prob after the holidays so in the words of Hans Grubber..." Ho.......ho........ho."
So I decided too spend my time better and do a fix like you when the time comes. No parts guys have the time (I guess) to try and match a cap a few psi lower. Only take a couple minutes, I k (former parts dept mgr) that most are in the same bin area but whatever....just keep asking me year make and model? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So I decided too spend my time better and do a fix like you when the time comes. No parts guys have the time (I guess) to try and match a cap a few psi lower. Only take a couple minutes, I k (former parts dept mgr) that most are in the same bin area but whatever....just keep asking me year make and model? Lol
Forget the cap, just look where the leak is coming from and take care of it, you're trying to put an Band-Aid on a broken leg.
If you don't wanna bother doing it yourself, go to the dealer.
 
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Yes....thanks
 

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I was bored so I installed an 18 psi cap, even though I said I wouldn't. Lil expeirement too see if seepage or a leak occurs in the future. Gonna add Amsoil coolant additive in spring too get back the extra temp protection lost from lower psi and it will also add extra protection from hot spots.. I'll start a thread on how it goes so I don't clump up your thread with my shade treeness Mr Vegas!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I was bored so I installed an 18 psi cap, even though I said I wouldn't. Lil expeirement too see if seepage or a leak occurs in the future. Gonna add Amsoil coolant additive in spring too get back the extra temp protection lost from lower psi and it will also add extra protection from hot spots.. I'll start a thread on how it goes so I don't clump up your thread with my shade treeness Mr Vegas!
Do you have a leak?
 

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No leak right now. After a few days of beating it i saw a little in the Tstat area. Not really sure where it came from cause I brake cleaned the area and haven't seen since. Level was a little down and I added and it's been good. That was a couple weeks ago and it looked good today when I changed the cap. Running temp hasn't been more than 210-215 deg w the winter here. Curious too see if it helps or not down the road. I'm hoping I'm just getting seepage from the weak spots in these lines when it's hot and being driven hard. If it turns into a constant leak then.....you know!
 

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So I decided too spend my time better and do a fix like you when the time comes. No parts guys have the time (I guess) to try and match a cap a few psi lower. Only take a couple minutes, I k (former parts dept mgr) that most are in the same bin area but whatever....just keep asking me year make and model? Lol
 

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just had theat hose blow off on me a couple weeks ago. the plastic around the quick connect cracked. noticed some coolant smell week prior. thought the system was just off gassing cause it was actually above freezing. luckily i caught it right away and was able to pull off before anything major happened. managed to break the rest of the plastic out of the hose and slide it back onto the aluminum pipe.

entire city was out of stock and had to ordered a new part from the stealership. was informed the part had been updated. (from 68193963AA to 68193963AB) good, hopefully the plastic isn't ****.


6 days later the part shows up and it's the same hose, only without the quick connect. FUCKSAKES i would have just kept the goddamn one i had just busted out the plastic on if i'd known all they did was glue a shitty clamp to the end.

retard at the stealership couldn't tell me if the mating part (the aluminum tube had been changed as well) some searching around has me believing it has. but trying to cross reference the part (from jeep series) shows as a part on the 200 but not on others like moparpartscanada. (68102127AC to 68102127AE)


the mating tube has a flare on it. the part ive seen has no such flare and has a small bump at the end to keep it from sliding off under pressure. i managed to use a socket to flare out the rounded end of my aluminum tube so the hose will hopefully not have a tendency to slide itself off... i may still try this other part. i kinda don't want it to blow off on me... 5d37dddadd32c661807aa98e4a7da893.jpg bab05fc9972aa67ee5eb3724344c1d61.jpg PXL_20210313_002417981.jpg again.
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There is a UView Airlift special tool the dealership uses to evacuate air from the system. It can be done without the tool, but takes time and patience and can be messy. A vacuum source (wetvac) with a rubber sealing cone can be used to pull in the coolant instead. See attached:
 

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that seems needlessly complicated... it's not terribly hard to get the system filled up... at least not any harder than any other typical cooling system. basically fill it and let the system heat up and burp out.

I just filled the resi full and then unscrewed the little bleeder a few times to burp out some air.... left the resi open then started the car. let it idle.

keep adding coolant to keep it topped off. you can see the bypass tube that enters the top of the reservoir has air and coolant dumping in. unscrew the little bleeder a few times more to be sure there is no air in there. once the stuff dumping into the resi is "solid" coolant and there isn't any more air spitting in there... the engine coolant should be warming up pretty good at this point. hoses should start feeling warm. I watched the temps to see when the thermostat opened up.

I filled the reservoir to just over the max hot level put the resi cap back on and then went on some spirited driving through the neighborhood. checked the level back at home again. mine was at the cold level so i filled it again to max hot.

had some stuff to do so took the long way and i burned out on the highway at around 50 60mph (100ish km/hr) for about half an hour. checked the level (and everything for leaks) again at my destination didn't notice any real mentionable coolant level drop at all. (maybe from one side of the line to the other.) and normal looking coolant temps.

but it's been a little over a week now since the repair and refill, and the only thing i had to do was tighten the rad drain petcock, as i'd drained out the system cause i just dumped water in it to get me home. I drained it out and refilled it with proper mix coolant. but hadn't quite tightened it enough and a tiny wisp of coolant steam could be seen exiting from there. i had to add about 6 ounces of coolant due to this.

so far so good though.
 

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hey, let me know how that tube fits on the flanged side. i feel like i'm stretching the hose to reach my stock tube. that part looks a little longer there and actually has some meat to clamp onto.

if all goes well for you, i'll order up the new pipe too.
 

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hey, let me know how that tube fits on the flanged side. i feel like i'm stretching the hose to reach my stock tube. that part looks a little longer there and actually has some meat to clamp onto.

if all goes well for you, i'll order up the new pipe too.
Yeah I ran into the same issue you did so I did just that too temporary hack with the new pipe Is working so far but I ordered part 68193963AB but haven’t had time to do the install yet. Am sure it will work is that compression clam at the Radiator that may be a you know what to get to.
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i can confirm that after the new hose gets a few good heat cycles in it, it feels like it's stretched and formed to it's spot so i'm not AS concerned as i was when I installed it... but i'd certainly like to entertain having more than 1/2 inch of hose clamped.

for the radiator side, i just removed the clips and removed the facia trim over the radiator/latch area (pop out the center part and then pry out the clip part.) there is a fairly sizable hole on the right where you can use a screwdriver on a screw clamp so it's not too much of an issue to get it clamped on there. i just pry off the stainless clamp they put on there... luckily the clamp was oriented so i could get a flat screwdriver in the hole and pry it open.

i'd attempted to remove some other parts to try and open things up to make it easier(brackets, headlight etc...), but it's a bugger and the bumper grill doesn't look easily removable from the bumper cover itself. it was easier just to reach in from the backside and shove it on and clamp it. (orienting the clamp screw so i can get at it from the hole straight shot.)
 
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