I have a 2012 200 3.6 liter and temp gauge mark for overheating climbing up to 3/4. Eventually it comes back down to normal if I continue driving it. Have to keep adding coolant though and I see no leakes. I have new radiator, thermostat, can't see any leaks especially around water pump. . There was a small drip coming from drain on radiator but fixed that . I replaced the oil cooler also. Can water pump go bad even though I don't see it leaking anywhere? Fustrated
Can you smell coolant after a drive if you walk past the front of the car? A slow leak may evaporate before reaching the ground. I had a leak like this once, I could smell it. I had to add coolant every few weeks. I saw nothing from up top.
Then I crawled under the car & looked up. I saw the chalky, whitish-orangish trails of dried coolant drips from the upper hose.
Coolant leaks can be intermittent. A water pump shaft seal may only leak when the engine is running & hold OK when the engine is shut off. In a case like this, pressure-testing the system won't show anything.
The radiator fan should come on when idling in Park, when the A/C is turned on & in stop & go traffic. On the open road, enough air is passing through the radiator & condenser that the electric fan is not needed.
Dorman has made some aluminum engine parts to replace the OEM plastic parts that have been identified as possible leak sources on the 3.6L (t/stat hsng, crossover & hose couplings).
Always diagnose first.
2012 was during a shift from HOAT type (orangish) coolant to OAT (purplish) coolant. It is important not to mix coolant types. Use distilled water for a 50/50 balance. No additives are necessary.
It should identify your coolant fill on or near the fill cap. HOAT should conform to Chrysler MS-9769 & OAT should conform to MS-12106. Read the label.
If the pressure is exceeding 21 psi (145 kPa) & is pushing coolant out of the reservoir cap, check for a possible combustion chamber-to-water jacket leak.
I installed new hoses, water pump , coolant cap, thermostat, water pump, everything but radiator. it was done 3 years ago. I'm thinking radiator bad again. it doesn't overheat right away, only once I get up to freeway speeds for about 15 minutes. there's not a single leak anywhere. I've been under the car several times looking and nothing. no coolant smell coming from anywhere. I'm stumped.
The electric fan shouldn't be needed at highway speeds. Enough road draft should be passing through the condenser/radiator to take away heat. Make sure that the radiator fins are clean. I've seen clean condensers in front of the radiator, but clogged radiator fins.
The coolant is at the proper concentration & the proper type? Too much antifreeze or too much water can cause cooling problems. If everything is good, I suspect a radiator problem. Flushing may not help. It may need replacement. Use distilled water & the correct 50/50 coolant mix.
I've used an IR scan thermometer to find hot spots & cold spots in radiators.
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water - Is the recommended mixture, it provides protection against freezing to -37°C (-34°F). The antifreeze concentration must always be a minimum of 44%, year-round in all climates. If the percentage is lower, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protection against freezing is provided with a 68% antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7°C (-90°F). A higher percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.