I'm going thru this now my bushing busted.. this saved me alot of money waiting on the bushing to come in

 

Right 100$ bucks for bushings. Or 950 for the whole knuckle

 

No taper. It's a straight bore. Just whichever side you prefer to have the tool, if you're left-handed or right-handed.

 

Have you replaced the lower one ? If yes, can we get a part number? Thank you.

 

Did anyone else have trouble getting the knuckle to bolt up after this bushing swap?

 

Not really. I did have to jack the knuckle up to align the control arm to the knuckle but was pretty simple to reconnect

 

Just press them out

 

I did not say it was useless I said invaluable.
invaluable = valuable

Many people find it confusing that the in- prefix at the beginning of invaluable apparently lacks the meaning "not" found in a number of other words, such as invalid, inarticulate, and insane. In fact, the prefix does indicate negation, but in a way that is not immediately obvious. The original (and current) meaning of invaluable is "valuable beyond estimation"; the word describes something so precious that one cannot assign a price to it. This, clearly, is the opposite of the meaning "having no value; valueless" that the word might seem to carry. Invaluable actually has been recorded in the sense "without value," but such use has been exceedingly rare and is practically nonexistent today.

 

I broke down, not physically but the rear of my car is so out of whack the bushings only replacement wasn't cutting it to get the camber in line no matter what. Bought the replacement knuckles and they arrived today. Robbery I tell ya..... it is the new 68200070/71AD part with what they say is upgraded bushings so they have to be replaced in pairs. Also got all new spring, control arms, trailing arms, shocks and bearings. might be able to get someone to do an alignment on it ... will see..

 

Bushing repair worked in my case

 

See nothing else wore out on mine just the bushings I replaced now gotta do ball joints soon

 

Just swapped the entire rear suspension out. Both rear knuckles and all control arms, springs, shocks etc.

Found the camber adjustment bolts on both sides had spun, so figure that didn’t help any. Replaced those hardware too.

Car is sitting about 3” higher in the rear with all the new parts. Initial set the camber and toe to 0 (or center) and rears actualy look camber out a bit with no cargo load. Will have to get an alignment soon

also mounted up some used and worn Jeep Compass tires and wheels. 225/65/17 and they just fit so I’m sure new that size will be too much tire.

 

Can anyone supply the part# for lower bushings, or confirm they are the same as the upper?

I pushed in new ones a few weeks ago, but the alignment could not proceed since it seems I am one of the 5% who need lower bushings as well.

 

Check your Camber adjustment bolts, Mine had spun in the hex nut and were at max inward on the nut side. This was definatly causing me some issues, Along with likely every other bushing worn in the suspension system.... I did retain my old Knuckles and will check those lower bushings. I recall one had a larger bolt so that would be a difference..

 

Thanks. The car was on the lift and the tech showed me the slack lower bushings on the toe link. I was looking for new links when I went out to have another look under my car and realized the knocking bushing was actually in the knuckle.

What irks me is that the tires on the back have been on for at least 4 summers now and show almost no wear, but new tires on the front wore out in one summer due to worn control arms. I replaced both arms only a few years ago, but I guess the Amazon parts weren't up to snuff. I didn't buy the cheapest, but I guess that's no guarantee. I put in 2 new Moog arms two weeks ago and rear upper bushings, but it didn't solve the problem completely. Bummer, as it was a LONG day of rolling around in the driveway. The cars tracks true, so I might just leave everything be a throw a set of used tires on the front every six months if the wear problem remains. I'm only expecting a few more years out of this car, so I could consider it just running costs at this point. The tech was amazed that my car has the original trans with 233,000km on it. I said I was going to dump and refill the fluid but he almost made a cross and said to leave it alone.

 

Moog quality isn't what it used to be. It seems that they have gone to the lowest bidder.
What year/engine is your ride?
Does Moog call their arms OEM? Mopar has changed the part number a few times, hopefully the new ones are better.

 

The arms were advertised as being for "spirited driving" and 17" wheels so I figured they were probably going to be as good as I was going to get outside of OEM.

Sucks I can just buy a complete set of bushings for a 2014 or older but not for mine.

 

Usually the ball joint is getting worn by the time the bushings need service. Servicing it as a complete arm does make sense.
17" & 18" wheels use the same arm. 19" wheels are different.
It doesn't necessarily have to be Mopar, but it should say OEM in the description.
Some parts say 'OE-style' or matches 'form, fit & function'. I don't completely trust those parts.

 

I went to the junk yard today and pulled the rear suspension knuckle to take a few meaurments:

The front bushing is a bit larger than the rear:

So it looks like 52mm OAL, a 14mm bore for the hole a 32mm length for the outer case with a 47.07 (measured, probably 40mm?)mm O.D.

This was a fairly hard pull to get out. The outer case is aluminum (zamak?) and really grabbed onto the bore of the knuckle. I'd suggest a bit of heat along with lube. I had lube with me at the junkyard but heat and grinding are stritctly forbidden.

 

The rear bushing has a part number, but searching for it has yielded nothing:

68199250AA

38mm OAL, 40.2mm O.D. (measured), 13mm bore.

Now, where to find some replacements...

 

Thanks for the images & dimensions. These bushings aren't considered a 'serviceable' part, even at the dealership (Mopar) level. Probably because of the lack of a suitable fixture to hold the knuckle & bushing press arbors.
Pressing steel bushings out of & into an aluminum bore is shunned by most of the industry anyway.
Dorius also listed some bushing suppliers in this post:
(https://www.200forums.com/threads/rear-knuckle-bushings.67776/?post_id=662059#post-662059)

The 68199250AA part number does pull up a couple of overseas suppliers:

I noticed the 'Alfa-Romeo' script on my rear calipers, so some suspension parts may also be corporate.

The crossmember behind your rear diff looks awful wet. Don't let it go low on fluid.
The upper chamber is hydraulic actuator fluid. The lower chamber is the hypoid gear fluid. Clean the area before opening the top diff cover. Mark (index) the driveshaft flange to the yoke for reassembly. Use fresh hardware & a cover gasket. A scan tool 'bleed' procedure is suggested.

 

Thanks for the tip, but this was just a junk knuckle I pulled out at the scrapyard.

It occurs to me that there is really no affordable replacement for this car currently on sale (mid sized V6 sedan). Once this one has miled out, I'm going to miss it.

 

Yeah, some replacement Chrysler sedans (the Pacifica is nice, but aging) are long over-due. The loyal, repeat buyers have been going to other brands as their 200s wear out.

When the 300 went RWD in 2005, we lost some FWD LH customers to Buick. The 300 was a left-over from the DaimlerChrysler days. The tooling was paid for & the related Charger/Challenger was still selling.

The 2nd generation 200 was fairly fresh when it got the ax. The Sterling Heights assembly (SHAP) capacity was needed for the Ram 1500. It was a business decision that still hurts.

Growing up in the '60's, my neighbor owned nothing but Newports. I loved those cars, but they were too big for today. I liked the Cirrus when it came out in 1995, especially with the V6. I had a Sebring convertible with the V6. The Cirrus/Sebring/200 was 'right-sized' for me. Good on gas, comfortable, strong acceleration & a nice highway cruiser.

The Airflow II would have been nice. It had that mid-size Chrysler family-resemblance. Corporate changed direction & wanted something like the Halcyon. I have mixed feelings about this car, but Chrysler must make a strong statement on the next model or wither & die.

The brand was going to go all-electric, but with the current state of the US govt it wouldn't ever be profitable or make much sense now.

There is nothing on the Stellantis new car lot that I would consider buying. The Hornet is nice, but way beyond my reach. I don't want a Ram or a Jeep, which was pretty-much all they had. Not much else. Still waiting for a sedan.

 

You used to really have a choice. Many cars came as 2 door, 4 door, station wagon. Every brand had convertibles. Now it’s almost do you want a truck or SUV.