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This error appeared on my cluster the other day and has been intermittent when I attempt to remote start, so I thought I would post in case this happens to someone else, maybe to save a trip to the dealer etc...

I didn't take my car in for this because: 1. if there was an actual problem, this isn't covered under powertrain warranty, I'm sitting around 60K miles, and 2. it wasn't a problem.

This error condition is normal in my case. Turns out my battery is/was a little low/negative battery cable not very secure.

I highlighted my issue. From the owners manual:

All of the following conditions must be met before the engine will remote start:

• Vehicle in PARK
• Doors closed
• Hood closed
• Trunk closed
• Hazard switch off
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pushed)
• Battery at an acceptable charge level
• RKE panic button not pushed
• System not disabled from previous remote start event
• Vehicle security alarm not active
• Ignition in OFF position

NOTE:
• If an engine fault is present or fuel level is low, the vehicle will start and then shut down in 10 seconds.

The following messages will display in the instrument cluster if the vehicle fails to remote start or exits remote start prematurely:

• Remote Start Aborted — Door Open
• Remote Start Aborted — Hood Open
• Remote Start Aborted — Trunk Open
• Remote Start Aborted — Fuel Low
• Remote Start Disabled — Start To Reset
• Remote Start Aborted — Too Cold
• Remote Start Aborted — Time Expired

The instrument cluster message stays active until the ignition is cycled to the ON/RUN position.
 

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So did you know or suspect it was your battery?
Being from a cold climate, have you or anyone else seen the error "Remote start aborted - too cold"? I'm curious as I'm also in a cold area. Northern New England.
 

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Let us all remember. Some of these early build ( 2015 ) 200's could already be 3 years old. The newer cars need full voltage at all times to operate correctly. Sadly, Chrysler always had issues using less then the best battery's. That could still be an issue, but mostly my opinion.
Battery's are relatively cheap compared to being left stranded on a cold dark night without any power to start your car.

Consider replacing a weak battery now before winter sets in and further weakens an old battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So did you know or suspect it was your battery?
Being from a cold climate, have you or anyone else seen the error "Remote start aborted - too cold"? I'm curious as I'm also in a cold area. Northern New England.
I've never seen "too cold" error, just what I posted.

I haven't officially tested the battery yet but I can tell by the way it starts with the push button that it's low, also the negative battery terminal is about "done", it is perfectly clean but it's loose since it has been removed and installed so many times. I plan on replacing it and the battery soon, also since I am nearly at 60,000 miles, I need brakes finally (BTW best stock brakes I have ever had with any vehicle, and I am not super easy on brakes).

As fltru103 mentioned about early build 2015's, my vehicle was built in September 2014 so the vehicle is 3 years old tomorrow, and who knows when the battery was actually manufactured before the car was assembled, so I am not surprised or disappointed. I should have checked it before now - my own oversight.
 

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I just bought mine 2 months ago. It had less than 20K. I've always changed my battery after 4 years. This car might or might not have the original battery but it whips right over.
I suspect it's an early build date but I can't prove it as the previous owner removed the sticker.
I like the brakes so far.
I was just curious about the "Too cold" message as I've never heard of such a thing before.
My previous vehicle was a 12 Avenger with the factory remote start. It always started even at -20F with the remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I agree normally 4 years but...

According to a popular auto care company:

“Three years + battery age is considered an old timer: Your battery can last well beyond three years but, at the very least, have its current condition inspected on a yearly basis when it reaches the three-year mark. Battery life cycles range from three-to-five years depending on the battery. However, driving habits, weather and frequent short trips (under 20 minutes) can drastically shorten the actual life of your car battery.”
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE:

I had to jump start the car this morning. Had the battery tested just to be 100% certain it wasn't the alternator. Battery no good. I replaced it.

My negative battery cable and terminal are fine and on securely now, I just haven't seen a terminal like this before - if you ever remove yours, you'll understand what I mean.
 

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Kind of a late bump to this post, but my car started doing the same thing yours did a month or two after I did the OTA update. Double click to remote start, horn honks, the starter seems to click a bit and then nothing happens. VDIC tells me "Remote Start Disabled."

I've also noticed sometimes when I start the main screen takes a LONG time to come up, even when I stick it in reverse it'll be 30 seconds before the rear view camera comes up. After the remote start issues happens the screen will cycle through the Chrysler logo screen 2 or 3 times before it's finally "ready" to use.

I'm taking the car in this Tuesday to get new tires, so going to have them take a look. Of course I'm at 47k and out of warranty, so hopefully it's just the battery and that resolves it. I'll chime back in next week with what happens.
 

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Crazy you should say that, Iswaidz. I did the OTA update on Tuesday. Randomly on Wed. morning, it told me "Key Fob not Detected" when I tried to start the car. I was at home so I got my other fob. Same thing. I had to push the button with the fob to start the car. It's been fine ever since though.

I've aso experienced the longer load times with my screen. It stays black for about 5 seconds when I start the car. It then sits at the Agree screen for a bit before loading. Reversing and using the camera usually snaps it out of it though. But, if I'm not reversing, it does take a little longer to load up than I'm used to.

So, can't wait to see what you find out. I'm only a 29,xxx mile, but it is an early build. So, the battery could still be starting to go.
 

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Coming back to work from lunch today my car nearly stalled sitting at a red light, going to stop at AutoZone after work and have them test the battery, that may need to get replaced sooner than later.

I've noticed when I get the double start thing from the main screen that the clock sets itself to 12:00, then about 10 seconds later sets itself to 6:00, then to an hour off from the correct time, and then finally the correct time... I'm guessing that's going to the default, GMT offset, DST time, and then non-DST time. Very odd, but seems to be happening every time I start the car now so definitely thinking it's a battery issue and system is resetting every time I start it. Really hoping it's not a more serious issue or something from that update that broke something that's going to cost me a bunch.
 

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Coming back to work from lunch today my car nearly stalled sitting at a red light, going to stop at AutoZone after work and have them test the battery, that may need to get replaced sooner than later.

I've noticed when I get the double start thing from the main screen that the clock sets itself to 12:00, then about 10 seconds later sets itself to 6:00, then to an hour off from the correct time, and then finally the correct time... I'm guessing that's going to the default, GMT offset, DST time, and then non-DST time. Very odd, but seems to be happening every time I start the car now so definitely thinking it's a battery issue and system is resetting every time I start it. Really hoping it's not a more serious issue or something from that update that broke something that's going to cost me a bunch.
Upon buying the car i shortly replaced after a little bit was stock battery w/higher cold crank amps.
 

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If the car was running and nearly stalled, that wouldn't usually be an indication of a defective battery. Once a car is running you can remove the battery from the car and it will continue to run normally.
 

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If the car was running and nearly stalled, that wouldn't usually be an indication of a defective battery. Once a car is running you can remove the battery from the car and it will continue to run normally.
WRONG ! Please don't disconnect a battery while a vehicle is running. A fully charged and good condition battery is nessacary for any vehicle to operate correctly. Read this about disconnecting a battery from a running vehicle.

"Your battery does more than just provide electricity. It also shorts AC spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.
Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's possible for the alternator voltage to go way over the top (I've heard some say hundreds of volts), frying everything."
 

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WRONG ! Please don't disconnect a battery while a vehicle is running. A fully charged and good condition battery is nessacary for any vehicle to operate correctly. Read this about disconnecting a battery from a running vehicle.

"Your battery does more than just provide electricity. It also shorts AC spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.
Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's possible for the alternator voltage to go way over the top (I've heard some say hundreds of volts), frying everything."
I wasn't advocating disconnecting the battery. READ the post. You can literally disconnect the battery with no problems. Late model cars do this all the time at local dragstrips without damaging any of the electronics. They remove the batteries to save front end weight and use an external battery to start the car (hoping the engine doesn't stall for whatever reason). They then replace the battery when the racing is over for the day. However some NHRA classes require the cars to have batteries in place. A normally good battery does provide some overvoltage protection but the built in alternator voltage regulator diodes have substantial voltage protection to prevent spikes from killing them. If for some reason the diodes were to fail, then yes, the electronics in the car could/would be subject to substantial overvoltage. If either battery cable comes loose while driving a car, you have essentially removed the battery from the circuit. Loose battery cables happen frequently and the end result is the electronics are fine, but the car won't restart. Most modern alternators no longer require a battery to be connected to provide a reference voltage for charging. My point was, if the car stalls at idle, I doubt that a low or defective battery has anything to do with it, unless the battery has had multiple cell faults and the alternator is struggling trying to charge it at idle. With that said, if the battery becomes disconnected, while the car is running, I would think you would have an immediate CEL warning.
 

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Car didn't start on the first try this morning, had to hit the button again but it begrudgingly started up. Taking her in a day early to get the battery replaced, fingers crossed this fixes all these problems.
 

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Just want to chime in... 99% positive on a Chrysler 200, you CANNOT remove the battery while the car is running and have it run perfectly normal. Some cars I know you can do that with but not this one. The 15+ Chrysler 300 is the same way, I experienced the same thing below with a 300 we test drove a few weeks ago... I seem to "attract" dead batteries!!

I recall trying to test drive one with a low battery before I bought this one - (when the 15's first came out). The car started... but it won't go very fast - as if the transmission couldn't "understand", backup camera wouldn't work, didn't make it out of the parking lot, and it eventually stalled. They said they would replace the battery if I wanted to purchase it since the battery wouldn't hold a charge.
 

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Swapped the battery out and she's good as new. Remote Start works again and no more electronic issues.

I'm going to blame this on that OTA update where I had to run the car for 15 minutes (which was more like 25) and then it took "up to" 90 to fully complete. Everything seemed to start after that.
 
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