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Nothing to brag about obviously, just sharing the experience.

It gave me a clue yesterday, when I started the car, it felt weak to crank the engine, didn't think much of it, today, it didn't crank at all, ACC worked, but that's it.

Went to Autozone, https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/duralast-gold-battery/603386_703413_25698, replaced it, works fine, it was super easy to do, especially with the bolts being on top, heavy though, 43 lbs, it's a big battery for sure. Stock battery lasted 4 years, pretty good I guess, the new battery from AutoZone was exactly the same, even the sticker that says "Made in Germany", and of course it had the Duralast sticker not the Mopar one, 5 year warranty, free replacement for the first 3 years, after that (3to5) it's prorated.

Good thing is I didn't lose an of my settings or radio stations or favorites addresses in Nav, all I had to do is re-pair my phone, had to delete it to re-pair though.
 

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Glad you shared that with the community.
It's an easy call most times, especially with these electronically laden vehicles that zap power all the time. After 4 years, any battery is on it's last legs.
So many post issues that clearly show a weak battery, yet they refuse to believe the fix could be so simple as replacing the battery.
 

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Glad you shared that with the community.
It's an easy call most times, especially with these electronically laden vehicles that zap power all the time. After 4 years, any battery is on it's last legs.
So many post issues that clearly show a weak battery, yet they refuse to believe the fix could be so simple as replacing the battery.
Indeed!
 

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Read your post yesterday,this morning I was in the same situation, dead battery, called AAA within an hour new battery installed, 6 year battery, first 3 years free replacement, 3-6 prorated replacement cost, noticed on the original factory battery sticker it was only a 24 month free replacement
 

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Read your post yesterday,this morning I was in the same situation, dead battery, called AAA within an hour new battery installed, 6 year battery, first 3 years free replacement, 3-6 prorated replacement cost, noticed on the original factory battery sticker it was only a 24 month free replacement
6 Y, what brand?
 

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I changed the redtop Optima in my Magical Aurora. Its been in there 10 years and still showed no signs of trouble but I felt 10 years was a good run.

Still have the OE in my 200 at 82K miles and almost 4 years.
 

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Still have the OE in my 200 at 82K miles and almost 4 years.
Should change it now, before you get stranded somewhere, do it before winter, you'll need all the juice then when it's cold over there.
 

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I changed the redtop Optima in my Magical Aurora. Its been in there 10 years and still showed no signs of trouble but I felt 10 years was a good run.

Still have the OE in my 200 at 82K miles and almost 4 years.
Yeah. You're probably pressing your luck. Mine, built around the same time as yours, only lasted 2 1/2 years. If you're still driving it several hours a week that certainly helps by keeping it fully charged, otherwise when sitting there is substantial drain from all the electronics leading to low voltage and sulfation. I compensated for my low usage by fully charging and desulfating with a Noco Genius smart charger every 2 weeks in the winter and every month in the summer. Still the original battery failed with a dead cell. There are similar reports here of early failure, so I don't have much confidence in the OE batteries. At four years I'd say a new quality battery is cheap insurance.
 

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I just replaced mine a few weeks ago in my 2012 200 HT convertible. It was the original battery. You say how "easy" it was to replace. Don't all 200s require you to take the front left wheel off to get to the battery? I had to take mine to the shop to get done and cost almost $200 for the job. Maybe it's just a convertible thing?
 

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I just replaced mine a few weeks ago in my 2012 200 HT convertible. It was the original battery. You say how "easy" it was to replace. Don't all 200s require you to take the front left wheel off to get to the battery? I had to take mine to the shop to get done and cost almost $200 for the job. Maybe it's just a convertible thing?
In the newer 200's the battery is to the front of the car in the engine bay ... see pic
2015_chrysler_200_c_awd-pic-4755422866173931308-640x480.jpeg
 

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I just replaced mine a few weeks ago in my 2012 200 HT convertible. It was the original battery. You say how "easy" it was to replace. Don't all 200s require you to take the front left wheel off to get to the battery? I had to take mine to the shop to get done and cost almost $200 for the job. Maybe it's just a convertible thing?
No ALL the previous gen 200's and Dodge Avenger and last gen Sebrings all have the battery in the fender, it's kind of a PITA vs. the new 200.
 

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So frustrating to see how easy you all had it, when mine locked up my computer systems and I had to spend lots of money at dealer to fix. sigh......
 

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Following along with all the other posts. The wife sat in her car today and listened to the radio for a while. ( don't know how long or what else she did ) but she calls and says the car won't start, the windows won't work and it has different messages pop-up, including the "service transmission" message.
I told her to wait and I'll be along in a while. I went home to get tools, stop at auto parts store and purchase a Bosch battery and drive 40 miles to her location.
Installed the battery and the car started right up, all messages were gone.
She asked why I didn't just jump start it. Besides the fact the car was facing forward, surrounded by other cars in a parking lot, I explained the battery was toast anyway.
We have had the 200 for 4 years and 4 months and little over 81,000 miles. The battery must be a few months older since we got an early build car.

Bottom line people ... replace those batteries before they let you down. 4 years on one of these and they are done. In my opinion.
I gambled and lost.
 

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Glad to see this posted. Is a reminder for me that I should probably start looking (and maybe just go ahead and buy one now) - I have an early build (Sept. '14). I only have about 38k miles on mine, but a 4 year old battery these days is on it's last legs.

Any recommendations on a battery with a good warranty that won't break the bank?
 

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Glad to see this posted. Is a reminder for me that I should probably start looking (and maybe just go ahead and buy one now) - I have an early build (Sept. '14). I only have about 38k miles on mine, but a 4 year old battery these days is on it's last legs.

Any recommendations on a battery with a good warranty that won't break the bank?
First I want to remind people that the "Check Engine" light will come on after the battery has been replaced. It took 3 cycles of driving for the light to go off. The car ran fine. This is normal.

As for what battery and how much.
I didn't have time to shop because it caught me off guard when it died.
I know Optima doesn't carry a battery for our car. ( according to their web site )
I went with the longer warranty battery at the auto parts store. 36 months direct replacement, another 5 years of pro-rated warranty.
Cost was $200 not including tax.
They had a cheaper one, but lousy warranty.

This, hopefully will be the only battery replacement as I expect to only keep the 200 another 4 years.
 

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First I want to remind people that the "Check Engine" light will come on after the battery has been replaced. It took 3 cycles of driving for the light to go off. The car ran fine. This is normal.
Mine didn't, I replaced the battery and everything was fine.
 

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Mine didn't, I replaced the battery and everything was fine.
Perhaps because my wife drained the battery so low that we had warning lights ( and various messages ) pop up on the center dash. With a no start condition, I would have expected the "check engine" light to be on.
The older cars always stored a code for a battery disconnect. Don't know why that would have changed.
 

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Perhaps because my wife drained the battery so low that we had warning lights ( and various messages ) pop up on the center dash. With a no start condition, I would have expected the "check engine" light to be on.
The older cars always stored a code for a battery disconnect. Don't know why that would have changed.
No messages in mine, radio was working..., it just didn't crank the engine when I pushed the start button.
 

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No messages in mine, radio was working..., it just didn't crank the engine when I pushed the start button.
Same here. Mine was just dead when I went out to start it one morning. It was only two and a half years old at the time. Had it replaced under warranty.

BTW, A little advice here for those of you still under warranty. If your battery dies don't call for a tow yourself. Be sure to call Chrysler Roadside Assistance and have THEM arrange a tow. If you call a tow company yourself, you have to pay for the tow and then go through the hassle of claiming your money back from Chrysler. If you call Roadside asst, they cover everything.
 
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