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Last night I bought myself a 2015 Chrysler 200C with the 2.4 as a commuter car. It’s got 33k miles on it. I really like the car, but last night I noticed when I’m stopped at a stoplight or something, the car shakes pretty significantly. As soon as you press the pedal, it’s smooth again. When the car is in park and running, it still shakes slightly, but nothing like when it’s in drive. It’s to the point when standing outside the car, it almost sounds like my Powerstroke diesel. I popped the hood and noticed the motor is literally shaking. I’ve read it could be spark plugs, but that seems odd to me. When driving it’s smooth as can be (and responsive as a 4 banger could be I think?) Anyway, any insight?
 

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Without being there and looking at it, my guess would be - normal. In fact, unless someone is posting here that has personally diagnosed your vehicle, anyone is just guessing.

Something easy to try:

I assume you use 87 octane/regular fuel? Change fuel stations and/or run 89 or higher. It's perfectly fine on 87 fuel, but it will smooth out some with 89 or higher.

If you are using 89 or higher, try using different fuel station.

(if high altitude substitute "85" for 87 and "87" for 89)

If you are positive it's 100% smooth cruising and accelerating then the spark plugs and ignition coils are probably fine.
 

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Please post if you found a solution. My problem comes and goes on my 2015 200c. I got a very very slight rough idle issue and I can hear the strokes of the engine sometimes. Like I said mines comes and goes and no engine codes. Mine happens when I first start the car and leave it in park
And the rpm slowly goes down from 1000 to about 750. It shakes just a tad nothing major. But I can tell it wasnt like that before. I am using a fuel cleaner just to see if theres a difference after a while. 55k miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I understand nobody can diagnose it for certain without looking at it. I was more curious to see if it was a common problem, how it was supposed to run or if anyone else had the same issue. I’ve seen several places say it’s the spark plugs, that just seems odd to me though.
 

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Isn't the 2.4 known for being rough at idle? I saw many posts before complaining about that, I think it's normal and nothing can be done.

You could always check the engine and transmission mounts.
 

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Alright guys. The 2.4 is known to be a shaker, and a little noisy, but not to the extremes some are saying.
Of course without seeing and driving, no way for any of us to tell the OP or theboss if what they feel is normal or not.
Our 2.4 is a little noisy and shakes a little ( very little ) and it's not as smooth as my 3.6, of course !

Again, if there are no codes, I would start with the basics like Black Knight said. Fuel.
Some fuel cleaner won't hurt either. ( a fuel system cleaner, like Techron )
 

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The 2.4L is just naturally like that. Its quite noisy at idle and will shake. Depending on the temperature it may be perceived as worse. It is especially noisy this time of the year when its cold. Unless it really starts to hammer and make really bad noises or the CEL turns on I wouldnt be too concerned.
 

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I have a 2015c with 31K that developed an extremely rough idle the vibrates the steering wheel and the seats of both the driver and passenger when the dealer installed the recall software for adaptive cruise control. This is not a routine rough idle! Dealer claimed today is was because of a worn lining on a motor mount and I replaced it at a cost of $389. There was no improvement. I will try high octane gas as others have suggested and new plugs before any more expensive dealer guesses.
It should be noted that a new transmission was installed Friday as a result of many complaints that the transmission would often not downshift to low gear at a stop sign until after the accelerator was depressed and would then launch with a severe jerk. Launch jerk occurred twice this morning on my way to the dealer so I doubt the new transmission has fixed either problem. Stephanie (good person!) is my case manager so I will advise her tomorrow of my continuing problems.
 

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I have a 2015c with 31K that developed an extremely rough idle the vibrates the steering wheel and the seats of both the driver and passenger when the dealer installed the recall software for adaptive cruise control. This is not a routine rough idle! Dealer claimed today is was because of a worn lining on a motor mount and I replaced it at a cost of $389. There was no improvement. I will try high octane gas as others have suggested and new plugs before any more expensive dealer guesses.
It should be noted that a new transmission was installed Friday as a result of many complaints that the transmission would often not downshift to low gear at a stop sign until after the accelerator was depressed and would then launch with a severe jerk. Launch jerk occurred twice this morning on my way to the dealer so I doubt the new transmission has fixed either problem. Stephanie (good person!) is my case manager so I will advise her tomorrow of my continuing problems.
Great, engine and transmission are trash, time to get a lemon law lawyer and get rid of it.
 

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Our 2015 200C (2.4L) vibrates in idle only when in gear (stop light).. When we first got it, it was smooth with a higher idle.. but after all the flashes to address the rough shifting, the idle is lower now..

But with the higher idle, you had to make sure brake was firmly applied, otherwise it would jump forward.. It's a 9 speed thing.. our '14 Dart is fine with different transmission.

Next time at a light, gas a little to raise rpms slightly..smooths out..

JK
 

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I have a shake also . I have a 2016 Chrysler 200 in mine has a shake too but if I raise the RPMs a little bit it's fine spark plugs everything they've been changed that do the maintenance. And I've been wondering about the idle shake myself
 

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I know that this thread is a few years old but sometimes it takes a while to finally find out what's going on and find the real causes of the idle shake. I bought my 2015 Chrysler 200 Limited 2.4L back in 2016 with 32,000 miles and it now has 61,610. It ran perfectly but over the past year I noticed that it had developed the idle shake.

As a life long mechanic the first thing I checked were the spark plugs. They were fine but I replaced them anyway with the Bosch 96311 iridium plugs from AutoZone and gapped at .047 as required. That made no difference but replaced them anyway.

Next I dealt with the valve train noisy lifters. I changed the oil and filter and added 5 qts of NAPA 0w-20 along with a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. I then went out on a 100 mile drive with my wife and what do you know, no more lifter clatter and the engine is running smooth and quiet. But still had the idle shake.

So I did some checking around and read some of the comments on this thread and watched so YouTube videos of people that had the same problem. The only thing left that could cause the shake were faulty motor mounts. So last night I pulled the right mount on the passenger side and what do you know, the rubber was torn and the flange with the three bolts moved up and down really easy. I ordered the new mount from AutoZone P/N C5662 from Power Torque. It only took about 30 minutes to change and then I started it and took it for a drive.

Well, what do you know. It's idling perfectly and the shake is completely gone. Now, this car only has 61,000 original miles and one would think that the mounts would have lasted a lot longer. I live in a hot in the summer (100* +) and winter (15*-) and although I can't prove that temperature has a direct relationship with the rubber deterioration, something is causing these mounts to fail. It may be that it's 6-7 years old and we shouldn't be surprised. Either way, if you have tried all the other methods and your engine still shakes, then try replacing the mount(s). I'm going to order the other two this afternoon and replace them tomorrow. It can't hurt and I feel like I'm just waiting for the others to fail.

I hope this has helped in some small way. Your engines issues may be caused by other components (coil or sparkplug misfire) but this has fixed all of mine. Troubleshooting is a process and always start with the simplest and least expensive working to the most difficult and most expensive. I have usually found the causes to be the simple fixes. Cheers and I hope you fix your idle shake.
 

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I know that this thread is a few years old but sometimes it takes a while to finally find out what's going on and find the real causes of the idle shake. I bought my 2015 Chrysler 200 Limited 2.4L back in 2016 with 32,000 miles and it now has 61,610. It ran perfectly but over the past year I noticed that it had developed the idle shake.

As a life long mechanic the first thing I checked were the spark plugs. They were fine but I replaced them anyway with the Bosch 96311 iridium plugs from AutoZone and gapped at .047 as required. That made no difference but replaced them anyway.

Next I dealt with the valve train noisy lifters. I changed the oil and filter and added 5 qts of NAPA 0w-20 along with a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. I then went out on a 100 mile drive with my wife and what do you know, no more lifter clatter and the engine is running smooth and quiet. But still had the idle shake.

So I did some checking around and read some of the comments on this thread and watched so YouTube videos of people that had the same problem. The only thing left that could cause the shake were faulty motor mounts. So last night I pulled the right mount on the passenger side and what do you know, the rubber was torn and the flange with the three bolts moved up and down really easy. I ordered the new mount from AutoZone P/N C5662 from Power Torque. It only took about 30 minutes to change and then I started it and took it for a drive.

Well, what do you know. It's idling perfectly and the shake is completely gone. Now, this car only has 61,000 original miles and one would think that the mounts would have lasted a lot longer. I live in a hot in the summer (100* +) and winter (15*-) and although I can't prove that temperature has a direct relationship with the rubber deterioration, something is causing these mounts to fail. It may be that it's 6-7 years old and we shouldn't be surprised. Either way, if you have tried all the other methods and your engine still shakes, then try replacing the mount(s). I'm going to order the other two this afternoon and replace them tomorrow. It can't hurt and I feel like I'm just waiting for the others to fail.

I hope this has helped in some small way. Your engines issues may be caused by other components (coil or sparkplug misfire) but this has fixed all of mine. Troubleshooting is a process and always start with the simplest and least expensive working to the most difficult and most expensive. I have usually found the causes to be the simple fixes. Cheers and I hope you fix your idle shake.
Sorry folks, I meant to say 4 qts. of NAPA 0w-20 along with 1 qt. of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer.
 

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Be careful here.
NAPA Full Synthetic 0W-20 made by Valvoline does not seem to meet Chrysler MS-6395. The NAPA motor oil does meet the GM Dexos1 Gen2 requirement.
You always want to select any chemical, fluid or grease, etc. that states that it meets the Chrysler Material Standard on the label before it goes in your car.
IMHO Lucas additives are a 'boutique' supplement or a Hail Mary band-aid at best. Chrysler does not recommend any 3rd party engine oil additives or supplements. You shouldn't need them (see below)*.

Valvoline vs Napa Oil | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Engine Oil Selection:
For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.

Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) — 2.4L Engine MOPAR® SAE 0W-20 engine oil or equivalent Pennzoil® or Shell Helix® is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy.
Your engine oil filler cap also states the recommended engine oil viscosity grade for your engine. Lubricants which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.

Engine Oil Viscosity — 3.6L Engine MOPAR® SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil®, Shell Helix® or equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy.
The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended engine oil viscosity for your engine. For information on engine oil filler cap location, refer to the “Engine Compartment” illustration in this section.

NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil®, Shell Helix® or equivalent may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available.

Synthetic Engine Oils: You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed.

*Materials Added to Engine Oil: The manufacturer strongly recommends against the addition of any additives (other than leak detection dyes) to the engine oil. Engine oil is an engineered product and its performance may be impaired by supplemental additives.
 
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Be careful here.
NAPA Full Synthetic 0W-20 made by Valvoline does not seem to meet Chrysler MS-6395. The NAPA motor oil does meet the GM Dexos1 Gen2 requirement.
You always want to select any chemical, fluid or grease, etc. that states that it meets the Chrysler Material Standard on the label before it goes in your car.
IMHO Lucas additives are a 'boutique' supplement or a Hail Mary band-aid at best. Chrysler does not recommend any 3rd party engine oil additives or supplements. You shouldn't need them (see below)*.

Valvoline vs Napa Oil | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Engine Oil Selection:
For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.

Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) — 2.4L Engine MOPAR® SAE 0W-20 engine oil or equivalent Pennzoil® or Shell Helix® is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy.
Your engine oil filler cap also states the recommended engine oil viscosity grade for your engine. Lubricants which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.

Engine Oil Viscosity — 3.6L Engine MOPAR® SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil®, Shell Helix® or equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy.
The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended engine oil viscosity for your engine. For information on engine oil filler cap location, refer to the “Engine Compartment” illustration in this section.

NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil®, Shell Helix® or equivalent may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available.

Synthetic Engine Oils: You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed.

*Materials Added to Engine Oil: The manufacturer strongly recommends against the addition of any additives (other than leak detection dyes) to the engine oil. Engine oil is an engineered product and its performance may be impaired by supplemental additives.
Thank you for the info. I didn't know this engine was so tempermental and specific. I change out the oil and filter today.
 

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I don't think that the Chrysler engines are any more 'tempermental or specific' than any other engine and using a capable motor oil may not harm or shorten engine life.
I just feel that it is important to follow what the manufacturer recommends in the care and maintenance for their product. Chrysler engineers choose materials that work best to use in what they design and build.
There are a lot of dyed 'boutique' motor oils out there that have some wild marketing claims (remember Slick 50?).
Reduced friction. Reduced wear. More horsepower. Better fuel economy. Quiets lifters.
There are no 'miracle' oils, spark plugs, air filters or additives, etc. despite the marketing claims.
I choose the factory recommendations and use OEM parts whenever I can.
 
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